Hi, this is Jeff. Today I'd like to talk to you about Fisher pre-rinse units. The Fisher spring-style pre-rinse is by far the most popular design in the industry. Fisher pre-rinses have stainless steel seats, guaranteed for life; two-part check stems to prevent any cross-flow, because we have the third valve out here; heavy-duty wall thickness riser pipe, brass chrome plated; a wall bracket with not only one, but two set screws holding it for extra durability; a heavy-duty spring; a pre-rinse hose that inside the armor is a three-ply hydraulic aircraft hose; an insulated handle, and an insulated squeeze lever for comfort; and the Ultra-Spray valve that only uses 1.1 gallons per minute and is test proven the fastest at blowing garbage off of dishes. The way we engineer this pre-rinse unit is that this spray valve stays at the proper, optimum height for pre-rinsing, which is about right there (12" to sink), which is the proper height. Should your application require the convenience of having a faucet with the pre-rinse, use a Fisher add-on faucet. When you order a complete Fisher pre-rinse with an add-on faucet, what we've done at the factory is engineered the assembly so that the spray valve will always be in the same optimal position. As our standard riser pipe is 21", this is now 21" with the add-on faucet so that the spray valve stays in the proper, pre-rinsing position. Now let's see how this works. As you can see, we've installed the add-on faucet onto our pre-rinse. The add-on faucets come with either a 6" swing spout or all the way out to a 16" swing spout. The add-on faucet has stainless steel seats guaranteed for life, a two-part swivel stem, which means lower maintenance, and this assembly now keeps our spray valve at the optimum pre-rinsing height, which is approximately 12" from the bottom of the faucet to the blue dish guard bumper. So that's a pre-rinse with an add-on faucet. In order to keep that pre-rinse spray valve at the optimal height, go into our catalog, find the pre-rinses that clearly show add-on faucets with the pre-rinse, and specify that model number with the spout length you need on that add-on faucet. Okay, so now let's take a look at the Fisher swivel-style pre-rinse. The swivel-style pre-rinse is designed for pre-rinsing a rack of dishes at a time, so as the rack comes through, you simply pre-rinse the dishes a rack at a time. There's plenty of flexibility to do that. The way that the water comes up and goes down...it's a straight path -- the hose is straight -- increasing hose life. This pre-rinse has got all of the features as the spring-style, as far as the stainless steel seats and swivel stems; the hose is a three-ply aircraft hydraulic hose; insulated handle; and the Ultra-Spray valve. Fisher swivel-style, or rack-at-a-time pre-rinsing. Okay, so those are the Fisher pre-rinsing units. Thank you for watching!
Pre-rinsing is an important step of dishwashing, so make sure your system is as efficient at possible! With Fisher pre-rinse units, you can be sure that food debris is rapidly removed and that racks of dishes are quickly prepared for further washing. Watch this video for a look at the features that distinguish Fisher units from others, and find out how Fisher can benefit your operation!
Hi, this is Jeff. Today I'd like to introduce you to the next generation of the Ultra-Spray, the Fisher Ultra-Spray / PLUS. The Ultra-Spray / PLUS has got many of the same features that the Ultra-Spray has. Those features are, of course, that we use a knife-edge type nozzle that only uses 1.15 gallons per minute (GPM) and is test proven to be the fastest at blowing garbage off of plates. It has a solid bronze squeeze lever which means full "ON" and of course, the Fisher Ultra-Spray / PLUS is also fully interchangeable with all other brands of pre-rinse units. The Fisher Ultra-Spray / PLUS also exceeds the WaterSense standard of "must have at least 250,000 cycles". Well, we took it a huge step further and we guarantee that this spray valve, the Ultra-Spray / PLUS will perform up to 1 million cycles. The Fisher Ultra-Spray / PLUS has an improved lift pin disc system in it which allows us to make that guarantee of 1 million cycles. We've also added a white nylon surface to the squeeze lever to give us a very smooth, durable action on the squeeze lever. The Ultra-Spray / PLUS has got a full dish guard bumper on it. Notice that there's no O-rings up front to leak. Actually, this is the only non-leak, no maintenance spray head on the market. The other thing that we do is we're able to go ahead and have a scrubbing brush that just clips right in. Many end users prefer a scrubbing brush because it makes it even faster cleaning the plates.The Fisher Ultra-Spray / PLUS is available in both approved brass with a 1 year warranty or stainless steel with a 5 year warranty. The Ultra-Spray / PLUS is now standard on all Fisher pre-rinse units. Be sure to ask your dealer for the Fisher Ultra-Spray / PLUS and thanks for watching.
Boasting a guarantee of 1 million cycles, this Fisher Ultra-Spray / PLUS is just what you need for your pre-rinse unit. Watch this video to learn more about what this nozzle can do!
Hi, this is Jeff. Today I’d like to talk to you about pre-rinse replacement hoses. At Fisher we make a direct replacement hose for Fisher pre-rinse. We also make a universal hose that has an adapter and a new handle inside the packaging. This universal hose fits brands like T&S Brass, Krowne Component Hardware, Chicago Faucet and other imported lines. When your pre-rinse hose fails it’s the perfect time to upgrade to a Fisher hose. Now let me know you why it’s actually an upgrade. Inside this stainless steel armor we use a 3 ply aircraft hydraulic hose. It actually has 3 plies of rubber in there reinforced by nylon. Our hoses are designed to last 3 times longer. Now what everyone else uses is a single ply, non-reinforced hose. This is the reason why a Fisher pre-rinse hose lasts 3 times longer. Now I’d like to show you how our universal hose fits on any other brand of pre-rinse. This is a different brand pre-rinse riser pipe; this is where the hose connects. So the first thing were gonna do is we’re gonna wrap this fitting right here with some white plumber’s Teflon tape and we’re gonna screw that adapter in that we saw in the packaging onto the top of the riser. And then, out of that same packaging were gonna pull out our standard Fisher hose, wrap this area here with the white Teflon tape and screw it into the riser. I’ll do it backwards just because it’s easier. There we go. So it’s screwed into the top of the rises. Now, what were gonna do is, not using any Teflon tape because inside the handle are two black washers and were gonna screw the handle onto the thread on the end, tighten it down hand tight, and then if it happened to be a different brand pre-rinse, a different brand spray valve we’ll screw right into our handle. Well now would be a really good time to upgrade to the Fisher ultra-spray. And so the Fisher ultra-spray also screws onto it. So as you can see, even regardless of the brand of pre-rinse the Fisher pre-rinse hose fits, every time.
Fisher offers two different types of pre-rinse replacement hoses. One that is made for Fisher hoses only and one that is a universal hose that can adapt with other models! Watch this video to learn more about these two types and how they work!
Hi, I’m Jeff. Today I’d like to talk to you about pre-rinse components that are interchangeable and what we like to call upgradeable. You might have a broken pre-rinse, that’s got a bad spray valve on it or the pre-rinse has got a hose on it that doesn’t work. Rather than change out the complete pre-rinse that is costly and there’s usually a plumbing bill involved in it, we’ve got some ideas here for you that will save you money and make your pre-rinse operate more efficiently. This is one of the ways to upgrade your pre-rinse would be with the Fisher 2949- Ultra Spray valve. This is the one that set the standard, this is the one that the EPA Act of 2005 was written around, and this is the one that President Bush signed into law. This is an easy, easy fix, you simply take off your old spray valve and screw on this one and you’re back up and running again. If your wall bracket brakes and comes loose continually you may need an additional wall bracket or simply upgrade to the Fisher wall bracket that is fully adjustable all the way out to 12 inches away from the wall. Quick easy fix if you have wobbly pre-rinses. Pre-rinse replacement hoses, this is the only hose on the market with a 3 ply aircraft hydraulic hose on the inside. It lasts 3 times longer and with this adapter right here in the packaging it fits all brands. This is an absolute no brainer. Pre-rinse hoses have a tendency to be the one component on a pre-rinse that seem to wear out the quickest. Fisher fits all brands. You don’t even have to know what brand of pre-rinse you have, when you bring home a Fisher, it will fit. When you’re talking about pre-rinse springs, this is one of the strongest springs in the industry. This one will keep the hose up, out of the flood zone of your sink, you won’t need a vacuum breaker if you have a really good spring. When it comes to add-on faucets. Add-on faucets typically have a 3/8 pipe thread, and when you’re cutting a 3/8 pipe thread it doesn’t matter who you are or how you cut it, it’s a 3/8 pipe thread. It’ll be interchangeable. There are 4 all Fisher add-on faucets for pre-rinses will fit all other brands of pre-rinse units. These are the pre-rinse components that are interchangeable. Now let’s go see how they work. Ok, so what we have here is a competitor’s pre-rinse and what were gonna do is change out the spray valve, the hose, the spring and even add a wall bracket increasing the quality components of the pre-rinse to Fisher. So that’s how the interchangeability of Fisher components can upgrade any pre-rinse.
Check out this video to learn how Fisher can help you upgrade your pre-rinses! Fisher offers pre-rinse components, such as spray valves, hoses and springs that are interchangeable, allowing them to adapt with any other brand.
Introducing the Fisher Ultra-Spray 2949 spray valve!
For a side-by-side comparison of the spray valve’s performance, the Ultra-Spray and several leading competitor valves were set to spray a completely soiled dish to see how much could be removed over 10 seconds.
Ultra-Spray 2949: In 10 seconds, most of the soil has been removed from the dish!
Leading competitor valve A: In 10 seconds, about 1/2 of the soil has been removed from the dish.
Leading competitor valve B: In 10 seconds, between 1/3 and 1/2 of the soil has been removed from the dish.
Leading competitor valve C: In 10 seconds, between 1/3 and 1/2 of the soil has been removed from the dish.
Decide for yourself.
Fisher. www.fisher-mfg.com. 800-421-6162
See how much cleaner your dishes will be after just 10 seconds of spraying when you compare three leading competitors with the Fisher 2949 Ultra Spray Valve! This difference is absolutely clear, and it will save you time and money.
Hi, I'm Jeff. I'd like to talk to you a little bit about the differences between a wall-mounted faucet and a backsplash faucet. This information would apply to faucets and pre-rinse units. Wall mount faucets have eccentrics. Eccentrics are the hardware package where it is adjustable from 8 1/2" to 7 1/2", because the plumber when he's stubbing out into a wall, can never get those pipes exactly 8" on center, so there has to be some adjustability. In a backsplash-mounted faucet, the hardware looks similar to this, where it's not an eccentric; it's not adjustable. They come out exactly 8" on center, because the holes in the backsplash of the stainless steel sink are always computerized; they're always exactly 8" on center, so you don't need the adjustability. But when you talk about Fisher backsplash faucets, you get the male nipple where the lock nut and the washer go on so you can attach the faucet to the stainless steel backsplash. It's the correct hardware package for mounting a faucet to a stainless steel backsplash. Whether you have a wall-mounted or a backsplash faucet, the actual back of the faucets look identical. The only thing different is the hardware package that comes with either a wall mount or a backsplash. Okay, so let's take a look at a wall mount faucet and how you actually install a wall mount faucet onto a wall. The trim ring, the flange - what we call the flange - screws onto one half of the eccentric. You put that on both. And screw them all the way down. And then, you go to your wall and simply screw the eccentric onto the nipple assembly or the pipe sticking out of the wall. Screw both of them on. And you always want to use plumbing tape or plumbing putty to seal the threads. So with these eccentrics on, you can see that if you turn them one way or the other, they will actually go from about 7 1/2" all the way out to 8 1/2". So, with the eccentrics installed, the next thing we want to do is to install the two washers that come with it. No plumbing tape, no pipe sealant is required. You simply install the washers into the recessed area of the concentric, and then grab the body out of the faucet box. Screw it on. Now you noticed that I've got this one, this side screwed on. But this one doesn't line up. So all I really have to do is bring this around until it lines up to be exactly 8" on center. If it screws all the way onto the eccentrics, you know you've done it right. Now, what you want to do is you want to make sure that it is level. And then, the last thing we do, is bring the flange back all the way up against the wall. Tighten it up, and we use a wrench. Tighten up these nuts. And we've just installed the faucet on the wall. So what we want to do now, is installing a swing-spout faucet... what you do is each faucet contains a little tube of lubrication, and what you do... you put the lubrication all over the o-rings. And this helps not only just slide the spout into the faucet body, but it also lubricates the o-rings and makes the swing spout swing very easily. Line it up, straight up and down; it pops right in. And then you tighten down the spout nut. Check to make sure the valves work smoothly - and they do. A perfect wall-mounted application. Okay, now we're going to install the backsplash hardware package to the Fisher faucet. It's always easier to install the faucet if you have the swing-spout off, so we'll put that on later. So what we're going to do is install the washers into the concentrics. Install those onto the faucet body; just screw them in, nice and snug... wanting to make sure that these washers stay on the concentric and don't drop out. And you can see that because they thread all the way in, so we know they're secure. Then what we're going to do is put the flange onto the concentric, and we're going to want to screw those all the way down for installation. Later, what we're going to do is back them off and tighten them against the front of the stainless steel backsplash, but for right now we're going to screw them all the way down. Now what we'll do is take this faucet over and see if it fits in the holes. And it fits! Okay, so now from the rear of the sink, installing the washer and the lock nut onto the backsplash hardware... naturally, in the real world, if we were really installing this, we'd be using a wrench and really tightening this nut down tight. Now, using the optional elbow, you'd put plumbing tape - Teflon tape - around the threads, and then screwing the elbow onto the nipple and tightening it up until it's very tight. And then now, this is where the water supply line goes in. Now, you could run in copper or it could be a supply line. And you'll notice by using the Fisher elbow, that when the sink is up against the wall, using this ruler to illustrate the wall, what you've got is the elbow not interfering with the wall, so now the sink can fit up flush against the wall with no problem whatsoever. Okay, now that we're done behind the sink, the next thing we want to do is tighten down these flanges. They just tighten down against the stainless steel. Use a wrench and tighten them down very tight. And this secures the faucet to the backsplash. Next step is installing the swing-spout. Inside the faucet packaging you'll find a little thing of lubrication. You put the lubrication all over the o-rings; you get a lot of it on there, because the lubrication is going to help you install the spout, and it's also going to ensure that the spout can swing freely. When installing the spout, don't try to put it in on an angle; come in vertical into it, and you can feel it go all the way to the bottom. Tighten up the spout nut; ensure that the swing-spout swings free. Check your stem to make sure they're off. Turn the water on underneath the sink. And we've just installed a Fisher backsplash faucet. And that's the difference between a Fisher backsplash and a Fisher wall mount faucet or pre-rinse.
Installing a new faucet doesn't have to be difficult, and this video shows you why. Watch as a Fisher wall mount faucet and a Fisher backsplash faucet are installed, and learn what makes them different and what makes them reliable. Perfect for any operation, these Fisher faucets secure to existing water lines with ease and deliver long-lasting quality.
Hi, this is Jeff. Today, I'd like to talk to you about backflow prevention, but before we begin, please note that it's important for you to check with your local municipality to find out their requirements regarding backflow prevention in your area. Backflow is the unintended reversal of the normal flow of water in a plumbing system. It's caused by one of two conditions: back siphonage and back pressure. Back siphonage occurs when the normal pressure in the system turns negative, causing a reversal of the normal flow of water in the system. Back pressure, on the other hand, is when the pressure on the outlet side of the fixture is greater, causing the water to reverse itself in the water system.
Fisher offers four general types of backflow prevention. We use an air gap, we use an atmospheric vacuum breaker, a dual check valve backflow preventer, and an anti-spill pressure style vacuum breaker. Each has its own unique application. Air gap is the distance between where the water comes out of the fixture and the flood rim of the sink. You need to maintain a minimum of 2" air gap. The dual inline check valve backflow preventer is used whenever you have a flexible air gap, such as on a pre-rinse where the outlet of the device could well be below the flood rim of the sink. Atmospheric vacuum breakers commonly found on kettle fillers and service faucets are designed to prevent back siphonage. The caution is that you are not allowed to have any shut-off valves downstream of the atmospheric vacuum breaker. Anti-spill pressure style vacuum breakers are commonly found on hose reel units. They protect against back siphonage, back pressure, and it's important to note that you can have valving on the inlet side of this and the outlet side of it. And they are not to be installed above ceiling tiles in the wall, it must be accessible for inspection. Backflow prevention can be quite complex, however, in the Fisher catalog we offer many kits and components to make the process quite simple. Be sure and check your local codes. Thanks for watching.
With four general types of backflow prevention, you're sure to find the best one to suit your needs with Fisher. Watch this video to learn all about the various fixtures you can use to help prevent backflow in your plumbing system!
Hi this is Jeff, today i'd like to talk to you about faucet stems. The stem in anybody's faucet is the mechanism that actually shuts the water on and off and such out of a faucet. So what we at Fisher do is we have check stems, 2 part swivel stems. The 2 part swivel stem is used in faucets where there is just two valves. Picture the hot water side and the cold water side of a faucet and that application we would use the 2 part swivel stem. Okay, check stems consist of three basic parts: the disc retainer and seat washer, a stainless steel spring, and the stem body. The spring lives inside the body and the disc retainer fits inside and that' has become the spring-loaded check stem. Spring loaded check stems are designed to prevent cross flow. So let's take a look at this faucet cross section and look at what cross flow is. Cross flow is when you have a differential in water pressure between the hot and the col. For example you might have 60 pounds of water pressure on the hot and maybe 40 pounds of water pressure on the cold. That'd be 20 PSI differential between the two. IF both these valves were completely open, you can see where the hot water at 60 PSI, 20 pound difference is going to flow right into the cold side, and now you're putting hot water into the cold side which means you're putting hot water into an ice machine or flushing toilets with hot water, not a good thing. So what we do is we put in spring loaded check valves to prevent that. So, whenever we have a faucet fixture with one, two, and three maybe a spray valve out of here, three valves, as soon as that third valve is closed, all this water becomes static and these springs come down and shut off the water supply to the faucet, preventing cross flow. Okay, so now let's take a look at the Fisher swivel stem. We use a two part swivel stem, and what we mean by that is the black seat washer is attached to a swivel on the end of the stem. So as the stem screws down into the faucet body and it makes contact with our stainless steel seat, as soon as it makes contact it becomes more of a plunging action. This is why the Fisher 2 part swivel stem means lower maintenance. One of the most important things in anybody's faucet is going to be the seat. The seat is actually the part where the rubber seat washer seats onto the seat to shut the water off. Everybody else uses brass seats. Brass is a very soft material, and as water flows across that seat, it erodes the seat, and then no matter how many times you replace the seat washer, it still leaks. Fisher uses stainless steel seats in all of its products. Stainless steel seats guaranteed for life. Well it seems that Fisher's stem story is complete. A 2 part swivel stem means lower maintenance and stainless steel seats that are guaranteed for life. That's Fisher, thanks for watching.
Learn all about the ins and outs of Fisher's check stems and 2 part swivel stems by watching this video. With great features, including stainless steel seats with a lifetime guarantee, it's no wonder you'll choose Fisher for all your faucet needs!
Hi, this is Jeff. Today I'd like to talk to you about 1/2" faucets. Whenever we talk about 1/2" faucets or 3/4" faucets, everyone wants to know the difference. Why is a 1/2" faucet a 1/2" faucet? Why do we call it that? And really, it's all about the pipe thread. On the 1/2" faucet, the inside diameter of the pipe is exactly a 1/2". That's why we call it a 1/2". The outside dimension is 3/4", which matches up a 3/4" outside, and a 1/2" on the inside, for a 1/2" faucet. That's what a 1/2" faucet is. Okay, so Fisher makes a variety of different types of different configurations of faucets. We make deck mount faucets, wall mount faucets, and backsplash mount faucets. When it comes to the spout, we make swing spouts, gooseneck spouts, double-jointed spouts, control spouts.... If you refer to the catalog, certainly you can find a faucet that would be perfect for your application. In addition to different styles of mounting and spout configurations, we also offer a variety of handles. Standard on all Fisher faucets is the standard lever handle; however, you can also pick up the optional cross handles and optional wrist blade handles. There's two things that we do differently that make Fisher the most specified brand in commercial foodservice. And that is... the first thing we do, is we use a stainless steel seat that's guaranteed for life. The reason why is that water is very corrosive and brass is very soft. Everyone else uses brass seats, so as the water flows in the bottom of the faucet and makes that first 90 degree turn to exist the faucet, the water will erode the brass seat. We use stainless steel seats that are screwed and glued into the faucet body, and we guarantee those for life. The second thing that we do is we use a two-part swivel stem, and what I mean by that is that at the end of the stem there is a seat washer. The seat washer is on a swivel, so that as the stem screws down the faucet body, as the seat washer makes contact with the stainless steel seat, it becomes a plunging action, rather than if this were all one piece, it would be a twisting and grinding action. Others all use a one-piece stem similar to this stem where the seat washer is attached right to the stem; so as this stem screws down through the body of the faucet and it makes contact with that seat, this seat washer is being torn up by an eroded brass seat. With Fisher, because it's on a swivel, as soon as this seat washer makes contact with the seat, it becomes more of a plunging action. This means longer life, lower maintenance. This is why we are specified. Just to recap, Fisher uses stainless steel seats that are guaranteed for life a two-part swivel stem for lower maintenance. So there's our 1/2" faucet line. Thanks for listening.
Don't be fooled into thinking that all faucets are made the same! Fisher engineers their 1/2" faucets for maximum longevity and minimum maintenance, providing you with a product that's guaranteed to last. Watch this short video to learn about the features that make Fisher superior in quality and reliability.
Hi, this is Jeff. Today I'd like to talk to you about the difference between our 1/2" faucet line and our 3/4". On a 1/2" faucet, we learned on an earlier video that a 1/2" faucet is always defined by its inlets. The inlet of a 1/2" faucet is 1/2" on the inside. Using our close elbow... we always use those so we can fit this 90 degree turn within the 2" backsplash of the stainless steel sink. On a 3/4" faucet, the inlets are 3/4" inside diameter, and with a 3/4" faucet, the elbows are always included with the faucet for easy mounting onto a backsplash. So the elbows go on like that. Now, just to illustrate the difference again between the 3/4" and 1/2", 3/4" and 1/2" - big, big difference. One of the other differences between our 1/2" faucets and our 3/4" faucets is that we put an aerator on all of our 1/2" faucets. This aerator is a 2.2 gallon per minute (gpm) aerator, which happens to meet the standard code throughout the country. Now, if you happen to be chasing any LEEDS points, we make aerators from 5 gallon per minute all the way down to 0.5 gallon per minute. So, depending upon your application, we can supply the correct flow rate on any of our swing spouts for you. A 3/4" faucet, you'll notice, does not have an aerator on it, because it's a fill faucet, and we don't put an aerator on it, because we don't want any restriction at all. We want lots of water coming out of it. The faucet itself, just like our 1/2" line, has got stainless steel seats that are guaranteed for life, and a two-part swivel stem for low maintenance. The big difference of the stem assembly, of course, is that we use a full 3/4" opening through this seat to allow large flow out of the spout. With both these valves open all the way at about 60 pound of square inch of water coming in the back, we're going to get 33 gallon per minute coming out of this faucet. I like to picture a 55 gallon drum being filled up in about 1 1/2 minutes. That's a lot of water! As compared to a 1/2" faucet that would fill that same 55 gallon drum up in 25 minutes. So, whatever application you're using where you want a lot of water to fill something up quickly, you always want to go with the Fisher 3/4" faucet. Some of the applications where you may consider a Fisher 3/4" faucet would be pot sinks, scullery sinks, steam jacketed kettles, large pots, and anywhere where you really want a lot of water to fill a vessel. Fisher 3/4" faucets come in 8" on center backsplash, 8" on center wall, single wall, and a variety of swing spouts that are a full 1" diameter for the flow rate.... from 14" all the way down to 8", so these are designed to fit virtually any application that you might need a lot of water very quickly. Thanks for watching!
With Fisher, finding a new faucet for your sink is easy! Start by figuring out your intended use. Do you need a controlled flow rate, or do you need a large volume of water quickly? Watch this video to learn what which faucet size is perfect for you!