Fisher 26409 Wall Mounted Stainless Steel Utility Spray Faucet with 60" Hose and Swivel Elbow

Hi this is Jeff, today i'd like to talk to you about faucet stems. The stem in anybody's faucet is the mechanism that actually shuts the water on and off and such out of a faucet. So what we at Fisher do is we have check stems, 2 part swivel stems. The 2 part swivel stem is used in faucets where there is just two valves. Picture the hot water side and the cold water side of a faucet and that application we would use the 2 part swivel stem. Okay, check stems consist of three basic parts: the disc retainer and seat washer, a stainless steel spring, and the stem body. The spring lives inside the body and the disc retainer fits inside and that' has become the spring-loaded check stem. Spring loaded check stems are designed to prevent cross flow. So let's take a look at this faucet cross section and look at what cross flow is. Cross flow is when you have a differential in water pressure between the hot and the col. For example you might have 60 pounds of water pressure on the hot and maybe 40 pounds of water pressure on the cold. That'd be 20 PSI differential between the two. IF both these valves were completely open, you can see where the hot water at 60 PSI, 20 pound difference is going to flow right into the cold side, and now you're putting hot water into the cold side which means you're putting hot water into an ice machine or flushing toilets with hot water, not a good thing. So what we do is we put in spring loaded check valves to prevent that. So, whenever we have a faucet fixture with one, two, and three maybe a spray valve out of here, three valves, as soon as that third valve is closed, all this water becomes static and these springs come down and shut off the water supply to the faucet, preventing cross flow. Okay, so now let's take a look at the Fisher swivel stem. We use a two part swivel stem, and what we mean by that is the black seat washer is attached to a swivel on the end of the stem. So as the stem screws down into the faucet body and it makes contact with our stainless steel seat, as soon as it makes contact it becomes more of a plunging action. This is why the Fisher 2 part swivel stem means lower maintenance. One of the most important things in anybody's faucet is going to be the seat. The seat is actually the part where the rubber seat washer seats onto the seat to shut the water off. Everybody else uses brass seats. Brass is a very soft material, and as water flows across that seat, it erodes the seat, and then no matter how many times you replace the seat washer, it still leaks. Fisher uses stainless steel seats in all of its products. Stainless steel seats guaranteed for life. Well it seems that Fisher's stem story is complete. A 2 part swivel stem means lower maintenance and stainless steel seats that are guaranteed for life. That's Fisher, thanks for watching.

Fisher facts. Why Fisher stainless steel? Hi, this is Jeff, today i'd like to talk to you about Fisher stainless steel faucets vs. our brass faucets. Prior to 2010, manufacturers of commercial faucets were able to put up to 8% lead in the product. After 2010 with the passage of AB1953 of California law, it said that we needed to reduce the amount of lead in faucets from 8% all the way down to a quarter of 1 percent. At this point, we had a choice at Fisher. We could follow the crowd and gone to simply low lead brass that would be compliant and not allow more than a quarter of 1 percent lead in our product. However, we have always taken the high road and wanted to have absolutely the highest quality faucet on the market, so what we did was we chose to reinvent a higher line of stainless steel. The reason why we chose stainless steel is because stainless steel is absolutely zero lead. It is not no lead, it is not low lead, it is zero lead. The reason why I say that is the state of California changed the definition of no to mean .25 percent lead. So whenever any manufacturer says that their brass faucets are no or low lead, what they're really saying is that it has some lead in it. Now if you have customers or if you yourself prefer to have faucets that are absolutely zero lead, then stainless steel is truly the only way to go. The other thing is that we don't chrome plate our faucets. What this is, is a mirror finish that we polish the stainless steel casting to a mirror finish, and it is a forever bright finish. Should it ever get dull you simply just shine it up again and you're back to the original bright finish. Some people think the biggest benefit of Fisher stainless steel is the durability of stainless steel. You may recall from a prior video that we talked about stainless steel seats in brass faucets, how we screw and glue a stainless steel seat into the brass body of a faucet because brass is so soft that water will erode the seat. Stainless steel is so hard that we guarantee that seat for life. We are so confident about the durability of Fisher stainless steel that we put a 5 year warranty on it. Thanks for listening.

Hi, this is Jeff. Today I'd like to talk to you about the difference between our 1/2" faucet line and our 3/4". On a 1/2" faucet, we learned on an earlier video that a 1/2" faucet is always defined by its inlets. The inlet of a 1/2" faucet is 1/2" on the inside. Using our close elbow... we always use those so we can fit this 90 degree turn within the 2" backsplash of the stainless steel sink. On a 3/4" faucet, the inlets are 3/4" inside diameter, and with a 3/4" faucet, the elbows are always included with the faucet for easy mounting onto a backsplash. So the elbows go on like that. Now, just to illustrate the difference again between the 3/4" and 1/2", 3/4" and 1/2" - big, big difference. One of the other differences between our 1/2" faucets and our 3/4" faucets is that we put an aerator on all of our 1/2" faucets. This aerator is a 2.2 gallon per minute (gpm) aerator, which happens to meet the standard code throughout the country. Now, if you happen to be chasing any LEEDS points, we make aerators from 5 gallon per minute all the way down to 0.5 gallon per minute. So, depending upon your application, we can supply the correct flow rate on any of our swing spouts for you. A 3/4" faucet, you'll notice, does not have an aerator on it, because it's a fill faucet, and we don't put an aerator on it, because we don't want any restriction at all. We want lots of water coming out of it. The faucet itself, just like our 1/2" line, has got stainless steel seats that are guaranteed for life, and a two-part swivel stem for low maintenance. The big difference of the stem assembly, of course, is that we use a full 3/4" opening through this seat to allow large flow out of the spout. With both these valves open all the way at about 60 pound of square inch of water coming in the back, we're going to get 33 gallon per minute coming out of this faucet. I like to picture a 55 gallon drum being filled up in about 1 1/2 minutes. That's a lot of water! As compared to a 1/2" faucet that would fill that same 55 gallon drum up in 25 minutes. So, whatever application you're using where you want a lot of water to fill something up quickly, you always want to go with the Fisher 3/4" faucet. Some of the applications where you may consider a Fisher 3/4" faucet would be pot sinks, scullery sinks, steam jacketed kettles, large pots, and anywhere where you really want a lot of water to fill a vessel. Fisher 3/4" faucets come in 8" on center backsplash, 8" on center wall, single wall, and a variety of swing spouts that are a full 1" diameter for the flow rate.... from 14" all the way down to 8", so these are designed to fit virtually any application that you might need a lot of water very quickly. Thanks for watching!

Hi, this is Jeff. Today I'd like to talk to you about 1/2" faucets. Whenever we talk about 1/2" faucets or 3/4" faucets, everyone wants to know the difference. Why is a 1/2" faucet a 1/2" faucet? Why do we call it that? And really, it's all about the pipe thread. On the 1/2" faucet, the inside diameter of the pipe is exactly a 1/2". That's why we call it a 1/2". The outside dimension is 3/4", which matches up a 3/4" outside, and a 1/2" on the inside, for a 1/2" faucet. That's what a 1/2" faucet is. Okay, so Fisher makes a variety of different types of different configurations of faucets. We make deck mount faucets, wall mount faucets, and backsplash mount faucets. When it comes to the spout, we make swing spouts, gooseneck spouts, double-jointed spouts, control spouts.... If you refer to the catalog, certainly you can find a faucet that would be perfect for your application. In addition to different styles of mounting and spout configurations, we also offer a variety of handles. Standard on all Fisher faucets is the standard lever handle; however, you can also pick up the optional cross handles and optional wrist blade handles. There's two things that we do differently that make Fisher the most specified brand in commercial foodservice. And that is... the first thing we do, is we use a stainless steel seat that's guaranteed for life. The reason why is that water is very corrosive and brass is very soft. Everyone else uses brass seats, so as the water flows in the bottom of the faucet and makes that first 90 degree turn to exist the faucet, the water will erode the brass seat. We use stainless steel seats that are screwed and glued into the faucet body, and we guarantee those for life. The second thing that we do is we use a two-part swivel stem, and what I mean by that is that at the end of the stem there is a seat washer. The seat washer is on a swivel, so that as the stem screws down the faucet body, as the seat washer makes contact with the stainless steel seat, it becomes a plunging action, rather than if this were all one piece, it would be a twisting and grinding action. Others all use a one-piece stem similar to this stem where the seat washer is attached right to the stem; so as this stem screws down through the body of the faucet and it makes contact with that seat, this seat washer is being torn up by an eroded brass seat. With Fisher, because it's on a swivel, as soon as this seat washer makes contact with the seat, it becomes more of a plunging action. This means longer life, lower maintenance. This is why we are specified. Just to recap, Fisher uses stainless steel seats that are guaranteed for life a two-part swivel stem for lower maintenance. So there's our 1/2" faucet line. Thanks for listening.

Hi, I'm Jeff. I'd like to talk to you a little bit about the differences between a wall-mounted faucet and a backsplash faucet. This information would apply to faucets and pre-rinse units. Wall mount faucets have eccentrics. Eccentrics are the hardware package where it is adjustable from 8 1/2" to 7 1/2", because the plumber when he's stubbing out into a wall, can never get those pipes exactly 8" on center, so there has to be some adjustability. In a backsplash-mounted faucet, the hardware looks similar to this, where it's not an eccentric; it's not adjustable. They come out exactly 8" on center, because the holes in the backsplash of the stainless steel sink are always computerized; they're always exactly 8" on center, so you don't need the adjustability. But when you talk about Fisher backsplash faucets, you get the male nipple where the lock nut and the washer go on so you can attach the faucet to the stainless steel backsplash. It's the correct hardware package for mounting a faucet to a stainless steel backsplash. Whether you have a wall-mounted or a backsplash faucet, the actual back of the faucets look identical. The only thing different is the hardware package that comes with either a wall mount or a backsplash. Okay, so let's take a look at a wall mount faucet and how you actually install a wall mount faucet onto a wall. The trim ring, the flange - what we call the flange - screws onto one half of the eccentric. You put that on both. And screw them all the way down. And then, you go to your wall and simply screw the eccentric onto the nipple assembly or the pipe sticking out of the wall. Screw both of them on. And you always want to use plumbing tape or plumbing putty to seal the threads. So with these eccentrics on, you can see that if you turn them one way or the other, they will actually go from about 7 1/2" all the way out to 8 1/2". So, with the eccentrics installed, the next thing we want to do is to install the two washers that come with it. No plumbing tape, no pipe sealant is required. You simply install the washers into the recessed area of the concentric, and then grab the body out of the faucet box. Screw it on. Now you noticed that I've got this one, this side screwed on. But this one doesn't line up. So all I really have to do is bring this around until it lines up to be exactly 8" on center. If it screws all the way onto the eccentrics, you know you've done it right. Now, what you want to do is you want to make sure that it is level. And then, the last thing we do, is bring the flange back all the way up against the wall. Tighten it up, and we use a wrench. Tighten up these nuts. And we've just installed the faucet on the wall. So what we want to do now, is installing a swing-spout faucet... what you do is each faucet contains a little tube of lubrication, and what you do... you put the lubrication all over the o-rings. And this helps not only just slide the spout into the faucet body, but it also lubricates the o-rings and makes the swing spout swing very easily. Line it up, straight up and down; it pops right in. And then you tighten down the spout nut. Check to make sure the valves work smoothly - and they do. A perfect wall-mounted application. Okay, now we're going to install the backsplash hardware package to the Fisher faucet. It's always easier to install the faucet if you have the swing-spout off, so we'll put that on later. So what we're going to do is install the washers into the concentrics. Install those onto the faucet body; just screw them in, nice and snug... wanting to make sure that these washers stay on the concentric and don't drop out. And you can see that because they thread all the way in, so we know they're secure. Then what we're going to do is put the flange onto the concentric, and we're going to want to screw those all the way down for installation. Later, what we're going to do is back them off and tighten them against the front of the stainless steel backsplash, but for right now we're going to screw them all the way down. Now what we'll do is take this faucet over and see if it fits in the holes. And it fits! Okay, so now from the rear of the sink, installing the washer and the lock nut onto the backsplash hardware... naturally, in the real world, if we were really installing this, we'd be using a wrench and really tightening this nut down tight. Now, using the optional elbow, you'd put plumbing tape - Teflon tape - around the threads, and then screwing the elbow onto the nipple and tightening it up until it's very tight. And then now, this is where the water supply line goes in. Now, you could run in copper or it could be a supply line. And you'll notice by using the Fisher elbow, that when the sink is up against the wall, using this ruler to illustrate the wall, what you've got is the elbow not interfering with the wall, so now the sink can fit up flush against the wall with no problem whatsoever. Okay, now that we're done behind the sink, the next thing we want to do is tighten down these flanges. They just tighten down against the stainless steel. Use a wrench and tighten them down very tight. And this secures the faucet to the backsplash. Next step is installing the swing-spout. Inside the faucet packaging you'll find a little thing of lubrication. You put the lubrication all over the o-rings; you get a lot of it on there, because the lubrication is going to help you install the spout, and it's also going to ensure that the spout can swing freely. When installing the spout, don't try to put it in on an angle; come in vertical into it, and you can feel it go all the way to the bottom. Tighten up the spout nut; ensure that the swing-spout swings free. Check your stem to make sure they're off. Turn the water on underneath the sink. And we've just installed a Fisher backsplash faucet. And that's the difference between a Fisher backsplash and a Fisher wall mount faucet or pre-rinse.

Hi, this is Jeff. Today I’d like to talk to you about pre-rinse replacement hoses. At Fisher we make a direct replacement hose for Fisher pre-rinse. We also make a universal hose that has an adapter and a new handle inside the packaging. This universal hose fits brands like T&S Brass, Krowne Component Hardware, Chicago Faucet and other imported lines. When your pre-rinse hose fails it’s the perfect time to upgrade to a Fisher hose. Now let me know you why it’s actually an upgrade. Inside this stainless steel armor we use a 3 ply aircraft hydraulic hose. It actually has 3 plies of rubber in there reinforced by nylon. Our hoses are designed to last 3 times longer. Now what everyone else uses is a single ply, non-reinforced hose. This is the reason why a Fisher pre-rinse hose lasts 3 times longer. Now I’d like to show you how our universal hose fits on any other brand of pre-rinse. This is a different brand pre-rinse riser pipe; this is where the hose connects. So the first thing were gonna do is we’re gonna wrap this fitting right here with some white plumber’s Teflon tape and we’re gonna screw that adapter in that we saw in the packaging onto the top of the riser. And then, out of that same packaging were gonna pull out our standard Fisher hose, wrap this area here with the white Teflon tape and screw it into the riser. I’ll do it backwards just because it’s easier. There we go. So it’s screwed into the top of the rises. Now, what were gonna do is, not using any Teflon tape because inside the handle are two black washers and were gonna screw the handle onto the thread on the end, tighten it down hand tight, and then if it happened to be a different brand pre-rinse, a different brand spray valve we’ll screw right into our handle. Well now would be a really good time to upgrade to the Fisher ultra-spray. And so the Fisher ultra-spray also screws onto it. So as you can see, even regardless of the brand of pre-rinse the Fisher pre-rinse hose fits, every time.

Hi, I’m Jeff. Today I’d like to talk to you about pre-rinse components that are interchangeable and what we like to call upgradeable. You might have a broken pre-rinse, that’s got a bad spray valve on it or the pre-rinse has got a hose on it that doesn’t work. Rather than change out the complete pre-rinse that is costly and there’s usually a plumbing bill involved in it, we’ve got some ideas here for you that will save you money and make your pre-rinse operate more efficiently. This is one of the ways to upgrade your pre-rinse would be with the Fisher 2949- Ultra Spray valve. This is the one that set the standard, this is the one that the EPA Act of 2005 was written around, and this is the one that President Bush signed into law. This is an easy, easy fix, you simply take off your old spray valve and screw on this one and you’re back up and running again. If your wall bracket brakes and comes loose continually you may need an additional wall bracket or simply upgrade to the Fisher wall bracket that is fully adjustable all the way out to 12 inches away from the wall. Quick easy fix if you have wobbly pre-rinses. Pre-rinse replacement hoses, this is the only hose on the market with a 3 ply aircraft hydraulic hose on the inside. It lasts 3 times longer and with this adapter right here in the packaging it fits all brands. This is an absolute no brainer. Pre-rinse hoses have a tendency to be the one component on a pre-rinse that seem to wear out the quickest. Fisher fits all brands. You don’t even have to know what brand of pre-rinse you have, when you bring home a Fisher, it will fit. When you’re talking about pre-rinse springs, this is one of the strongest springs in the industry. This one will keep the hose up, out of the flood zone of your sink, you won’t need a vacuum breaker if you have a really good spring. When it comes to add-on faucets. Add-on faucets typically have a 3/8 pipe thread, and when you’re cutting a 3/8 pipe thread it doesn’t matter who you are or how you cut it, it’s a 3/8 pipe thread. It’ll be interchangeable. There are 4 all Fisher add-on faucets for pre-rinses will fit all other brands of pre-rinse units. These are the pre-rinse components that are interchangeable. Now let’s go see how they work. Ok, so what we have here is a competitor’s pre-rinse and what were gonna do is change out the spray valve, the hose, the spring and even add a wall bracket increasing the quality components of the pre-rinse to Fisher. So that’s how the interchangeability of Fisher components can upgrade any pre-rinse.