Hoshizaki F-450MAJ Slim Line 22" Air Cooled Flake Ice Machine with Stainless Steel Finish Ice Storage Bin - 492 lb. Per Day, 300 lb. Storage

Hoshizaki large ice machine storage bins. The baffle is attached with a slot tab mechanism located inside the bin so that it does not need any fasteners. The baffle can be removed by rotating the baffle upwards to a horizontal position.. Next, the baffle can be lifted off the tabs. At this time the baffle can be removed through the door opening. Rotate the baffle up, lift up the snout, and remove. Insert the baffle so slots are facing forward and the flange is facing down. Lay the baffle on the interior flange so that the slot aligns with the locator tab. Please note, the baffle should be inserted horizontally when attaching to the locator tabs, allowing the baffle to lie on the snout supports.

The purpose of this video is to demonstrate the proper installation of Hoshizaki ice machines. While the KM cuber and flaker machines differ in some features, the installations are basically the same. In order to avoid problems after starting up, it is important that you install these machines properly the first time. There are several things you should do before installing the ice maker. First, take a look at the installation site. Remember, these ice makers are not intended for outdoor use. For best results, the ice maker should not be located next to ovens, grills, or other high-heat producing equipment. The location should provide a firm, level foundation for the ice maker and storage bin. Check the installation site to be sure there's an adequate water supply and proper drainage. Be sure to allow for a 6 inch clearance at the rear, sides, and top of the machines intended location to allow for proper air circulation and ease of maintenance and service. If you are installing an auger type ice maker, it is necessary to allow for adequate clearance above the unit to allow for during service. Next, inspect the exterior of the cartons for visible damage and unpack the storage bin. Make sure it is the correct bin for your application. Attach the four adjustable legs provided to the bottom of the storage bin and position it in the selected permanent position. Then, unpack the ice maker, being careful to save the registration cards located in the pouch on the carton. Also, remove all packing material and tape from inside the machine and remove the package containing the installation manual and accessories. Always refer to this manual or your Hoshizaki technician's pocket guide and carefully follow the instructions for installing the ice maker. To prevent damage, remove the outer panels before installing the ice maker. Now, check to see that the refrigerant lines do not rub or touch other line surfaces. On air cooled units, be sure that the fan blade turns freely. Check that the compressor is snug on all mounting pads. Finally, check the name plate to make sure that your electrical service is the same as the voltage specified. The gasket provided with the Hoshizaki bins provides an adequate seal between the two units. Place the ice maker on top of the storage bin and secure it by using the two mounting brackets and four bolts provided. Level the ice maker storage bin in both the left to right and front to rear directions using the adjustable bin legs. If you're stacking two S units on a single bin, remove the top panel and ABS evaporator cover from the lower unit. Set the second unit on top and secure it with the brackets provided in the accessory package. Remove the bin control holder and bulb from the top bracket and round it to the bottom unit bracket, taking care not to touch the suction or discharge lines or the compressor base with the controlled capillary tube. Use the top bulb holder to secure it to the bottom bracket. Plug in both bin control plugs and be aware that Hoshizaki stacked units operate independently of each other. When making the electrical connections, it is important that they be made in accordance with the instructions on the warning tag provided with the leads in the junction box. Make sure the white leads are connected to the neutral conductor of the power source. To prevent possible electric shock or damage to the machine, be sure to install a proper ground wire to the ice maker. On 208/230V single-phase applications, a dedicated neutral wire is required by national electrical codes. A separate power supply or receptacle is required for the installation of each ice maker. Be sure to check the name plate for proper capacity. On units requiring the installation of a remote condenser, the unit must be installed in a permanent location. If the condenser unit supplied is not the appropriate Hoshizaki condenser, be sure that the application has been approved in writing by the Hoshizaki technical support department. The installation site should be firm and flat. The location should also be dry and well ventilated. This means locating the unit away from standing water and providing 24 inch clearance on both the front and rear of the unit. Also, when locating the condenser, keep in mind that the maximum refrigerant line length with a factory charge is 66 feet. This can be extended to a maximum of 100 feet with an additional charge. Consult the manual for recommendations for line size and charge amounts. To install the remote condenser unit, first remove it from the carton and secure the legs squarely with eight M8 by 16 mm hexagon bolts and M8 nuts. Next, secure the legs to the roof curb with eight bolts in the eight mounting holes. When installing two remote condenser units, you may stack them to save space. Attach the upper condenser unit on top of the lower unit and secure it with the four screws provided. When installing two copper tubing sets between the ice maker and condenser units, take extra care to mark the refrigerant lines and electrical connections. This will assure that they will not get crossed during installation. Each copper tubing should be sized properly and insulated separately. Pre-charged tubing kits are available from Hoshizaki America in 20, 35, and 55 foot lengths. Line sets fabricated on the job should be evacuated through the charging ports on the Aeroquip couplings and charged with refrigerant vapor to a pressure of 15 to 30 PSIG. Pre-charged tubing kits do not need to be evacuated. To connect line sets to the ice maker and condensing units, remove the plastic caps that connect the couplings and place a small amount of clean, dry refrigerant oil on the O rings and male threads on each connection. Connect the refrigerant lines with the proper-sized Aeroquip fittings to the connection of the condenser unit and ice maker. Then, tighten the fittings until they bottom out, and turn them 1/4 round more. This provides a leak free, brass to brass seal. The fan controlled wiring in the ice making unit requires a 3 wire circuit. To connect the circuit, first remove the panel and junction box cover from the condenser unit. This circuit should be routed through seal-tight conduit. A disconnect may be required by a local code. Connect the fan motor leads in the junction box of the remote condenser unit to the fan motor leads in the junction box of the ice maker. A proper ground wire is required to prevent possible electrical shock. The ice maker inlet water line must be sized correctly for proper operation. Check your manual carefully to be sure which size is required for the ice maker you are installing. Depending on the local water quality, the installation of an external filter with an adequate flow rate may be required for the ice making inlet. The water supply pressure should be a minimum of 10 PSIG and a maximum of 113 PSIG. If the pressure exceeds 113 PSIG, you will need to install a pressure reducing valve. On water cooled models, two separate water supply inlets are provided: one for the ice making inlet and the other for the water cooled condenser inlet. The drain outlet for the ice maker reservoir uses a 3/4 inch female pipe thread or FPT. The drain for condensation is a 3/8 inch ID pipe. Be sure the ice maker drain and the condenser drain piping connections are made separately from the bin drain. Hard piping with copper or PVC is recommended. On water cooled models, a separate 1/2 inch FPT connection is provided for the condenser drain outlet. All Hoshizaki ice makers should be installed in accordance to all applicable national, state, and local regulations. Also, a back flow preventer may be required by local codes. Now that you have installed the Hoshizaki ice maker, review the final check list provided in the installation manual. At the point that the list requires you to start the ice machine, flush the water system thoroughly and check the unit for proper operation. Check the bin control switch for correct operation and position. This can be accomplished by holding an ice cube in contact with the bulb while the ice maker is running. The machine should stop within six to ten seconds. Once the installation is complete, carefully score the edges of the protective plastic film and peel the film from the exterior panels. Make sure to give the end user the instruction manual and review the operation of the ice maker, stressing the importance of performing the recommended periodic maintenance. Also, be sure to give the end user the name and phone number of an authorized service agent. Remind them to fill out the warranty tag and forward it to the factory for warranty registration. Once you have successfully completed the check list, you can be sure that the Hoshizaki ice maker is installed correctly and will avoid the unnecessary problems that sometimes occur due to improper installation. Remember, while this video has shown you the proper installation procedures, you should always refer to the ice maker manual or your Hoshizaki technician's pocket guide for detailed installation information.

This video will demonstrate the proper way to perform a system diagnosis on flaker ice maker units. Before we cover how to diagnose electrical and component failures, let's review the flaker's sequence of operation. The sequence of operation is controlled by a series of timers within the solid state timer board. First, the flaker begins a startup when the flush switch is set to the ice position and the power switch is set to the on position. Power is then supplied to the inlet valve, allowing water to fill the reservoir. The unit will not begin the ice making process until the reservoir is filled. Next, when the dual float switches indicate a full reservoir, the bin control takes over and allows the unit to sequence up. At this point, the gear motor and condenser fans start. Should the gear motor experience undue stress from the rotating auger or the pressure of ice extrusion, the machine will automatically shut down through the gear motor protect relay, saving wear on the gear motor and bearings. After one minute, the compressor starts. This delay allows any ice left in the evaporator cylinder to be removed before basic refrigeration begins. As the refrigeration cools the water in the evaporator, ice begins to form on the cylinder wall within two to three minutes. The gear motor turns an auger inside the stainless steel cylinder. As ice forms on the inside wall, the auger breaks away the ice and moves it upward. The upward pressure extrudes the ice out the top of the cylinder and into the bin. Ice production will continue until the bin is full. Once the bin is full, the ice pushes against the bin control paddle. The paddle operates a magnetic proximity switch and a shutdown process begins. Within six seconds after the bin control indicates a full bin of ice, the gear motor, compressor, and fan stop. Self-contained units and DCMs sequence down. One minute after the bin control opens and indicates a full bin of ice, the compressor stops. One minute later, the gear motor and fan stop. Before beginning the diagnostics on a flaker ice maker, it's important that you first make sure there is proper water and power supplied to the unit. When troubleshooting for system failures, first remove the covers of the unit. Place the flush switch to the ice making position and turn the machine on. Remember, the unit will not start up unless the reservoir is full and both float switches are closed. If the water valve does not energize, check the water valve terminals for voltage. A meter reading of 24 volts indicates that the water control relay circuit is supplying power to the water valve. This means that the problem is either the water valve coil is open, the valve is stuck closed, or the water valve screen is plugged with debris. At this point, turn off the power supply and shut off the water supply. Remove the thumb nut and check for debris plugging the inlet stream. Next, check the coil for continuity with an alm meter. Replace the water valve if it is defective. Some flaker models have a built in periodic flush. The flush valve is operated either by the manual flush switch or by the 12 hour flush timer. If no power is supplied to the water control circuit at start up, it could be off on the 12 hour timer. You can advance the timer or check the timer contacts with the volt meter to determine if this is the case. After checking the flush timer, if there is no power to the inlet water valve, check the controls transformer secondary to make sure control voltage is present. You can easily check the secondary and circuit fuse by removing the control box cover and checking across terminals one and two on the timer for 24 volts. If control voltage is present, check the flush ice switch for contacts. If the water valve is energized and the reservoir is over flowing, check both float switches and the water control relay. To check the float switch, twist and lift the assembly out of the reservoir. The float switch has three wires: black, red, and blue. First, check the blue and black or common wire with your meter at the control box connector. When you raise the bottom float, the switch should be closed. When it is down, the switch should be open. Now, check the red and black wires. The float switch should again be closed when the top float is up and open when it is down. If the float switch needs to be cleaned, soak it in ice machine cleaner. If you take it apart, mark the top of the floats and be sure to replace them in their original position. This will allow you to have the correct timing on the water control relay circuit. To check the water control relay, review the wire color code on the wiring diagram and check the relay with your meter. When the reservoir fills and the water valve stops, the gear motor and condenser fan should start. If this does not occur, locate the bin control terminals on the timer board. Check the bin control's proximity switch by disconnecting the wires from these terminals. Check the wires with an alm meter to assure that the bin control is closed. Another way to check the proximity switch is to use a jumper. If you jumper across the bin control circuit pins five and six and the machine starts up, the bin control proximity switch is your likely problem. The terminal numbers may vary on older models. Always verify the terminal numbers on the unit wiring diagram. The solid state timer board controls the entire sequence of operation. To diagnose a bad timer board, first check across terminals one and two. You should have 24 volts or the machine will not cycle up. Then, jumper across terminals three and four. If the machine starts up, you should check your water control relay circuit as previously discussed. If the machine still doesn't start, other circuits must be checked before condemning the timer board. Now, jumper across terminals five and six to check the bin control. If the unit cycles up with the jumper in place, the board is good and the problem is with the bin control circuit. Check your wiring diagram to determine which voltage should be present at terminal eight. Depending on the model you are working on, this terminal could either be a line voltage or a controlled voltage circuit. If your meter reads the proper voltage, then the timer board is good and is supplying power to the gear motor relay or circuit. If the gear motor relay is not energizing at this point, it may have a bad coil or a mechanical problem. If the condenser fan is running and the gear motor is not, the relay is operating properly and there may be a problem with the gear motor circuit. If the gear motor and fan start but the compressor does not, check the gear motor protect relay. To check this circuit, jumper across terminals ten and eleven. If the compressor starts up within one minute, the problem is in the gear motor protect relay. If the compressor doesn't start after jumping ten and eleven, check the compressor circuit. To perform a quick check of the compressor circuit, turn the power switch off. Place a jumper across the black compressor relay on the timer board. This will bypass the timer and allow the compressor to start. Turn the power back on. If the compressor runs, the compressor circuit is okay. If not, use basic diagnostic procedures to check the compressor and start components. If the compressor circuit is okay, the timer board is probably bad and will need to be replaced. Remember, when servicing any Hoshizaki ice maker, always refer to your tech spec's guide for detailed information or call the Hoshizaki service hotline on your screen. Now that you have learned the various check out procedures, you should be able to diagnose most problems that occur with the flaker.

The following preventative maintenance check will help keep Hoshizaki Flakers and DCMs dependable and serviceable for many years. Clean the removable air filter. Service the water filter and check the water valve screen. Check for bearing wear once a year. Look for loose wires, oil spots, water drips, and other signs of wear or damage. Clean the exterior of the ice maker with a soft cloth and neutral cleaner. And clean and sanitize the water system and bin. Annual cleaning and sanitizing of the water system is recommended. More frequent cleaning may be needed if there is a high mineral content in the local water supply. Instructions for cleaning are located inside the front panel. To clean the flaker, drain the water system, turn off the control switch, and incoming water supply. Mix the cleaning solution as directed on the front panel. Remove the reservoir cover and fill with cleaning solution until it overflows into the stand pipe. Allow the cleaner to set for 15 to 20 minutes to loosen the scale buildup. Turn the control switch to “on” and the flush switch to “ice”. Allow the flaker to make ice with the cleaner solution until the low water safety operates. Place a container under the ice drop zone to catch the frozen cleaning solution and then discard in a safe place. Inspect the reservoir. If the reservoir is clean, the evaporator is clean. If not, repeat the entire cleaning process. When you are sure the system is clean, turn on the water supply and flush the system thoroughly with fresh water. The same procedure should be used to sanitize the unit using a commercial ice machine sanitizing product. After a thorough flush, turn the unit on and allow it to make ice. Catch the first 10 minutes of product and discard it to ensure your customers’ ice is fresh and clean.

Before we begin to describe the basic operation of the flaker and DCM models, let's look at some of the features and benefits that make Hoshizaki machines so dependable and serviceable. Removable panels make regular maintenance checks much easier. A solid state sequence timer provides automatic control over the continuous ice making process. Hoshizaki flakers and DCMs utilize and internal auger system with a direct drive spline coupled gear motor for dependable operation. A fully insulated stainless steel evaporator provides a durable freezing surface. Anti-magnetic stainless steel is used to eliminate pitting and corrosion on the evaporator and auger surface, helping increase efficiency and extending component life. The bearing are sleeve type alignment bearings. The carbon resin bearing material has a graphite base to provide lubrication eliminating possible grease contamination. The auger is driven by a sealed gear motor assembly which is protected by two overload sensing systems that protect against undue stress. A unique low water safety device developed by Hoshizaki shuts the unit down automatically if the unit switches fail to detect water in the reservoir. The unit will restart the ice making process only when the water level is restored. Removable panels, a solid state sequence timer, anti-magnetic, stainless steel evaporator and auger, carbon alignment bearings, a sealed gear motor with overload protection, and a low water safety device. Just some of the features and benefits of the Hoshizaki flaker and DCM models that help make your job easier. Now, let's look at the basic sequence of operation of the Hoshizaki flakers and DCMs. The complete start up and shut down process for the flaker is operated by a series of timing circuits built into the solid state timer board. With the power switch on and the flush switch in the ice position, the inlet water valve opens allowing water to fill the reservoir. The ice making process will not begin until the reservoir is filled. When the dual float switches indicate the reservoir is filled, operation is turned over to the bend controlled magnetic proximity switch. And if it is closed, the unit begins ice production. At this point, the gear motor and ice condenser start up. Should the gear motor not start, a gear motor protect relay will automatically shut the unit down to protect against any component damage. If at any time during operation, the sealed gear motor should experience stress which causes an excessive amperage increase, a manual gear motor reset protector will shut the unit down. After one minute, the compressor starts, this delay will allow any ice left in the evaporator cylinder to be cleared. As the refrigeration system clears the water left in the evaporator cylinder, ice begins to form and is extruded within two to five minutes. Ice production will continue until the bin is full. Once the bin is full, ice pushes against the control which opens the magnetic proximity switch and begins the shut down process. On the M model flaker the gear motor, fan, and compressor, stop within six seconds after the bin control indicates a full bin of ice. A time delay is used in the smaller flakers and DCM units to allow the gear motor to clear the evaporator of ice. On these models, one minute after the bin control switch opens, the compressor stops. One minute later the gear motor and condenser stop. The unit will now sit idle until the ice is scooped away from the bin control which will cause the proximity switch to close and restart the unit. Unique among Hoshizaki flakers, is the automatic flush period. Designed to provide cleaner operation and longer bearing life. The automatic flush is operated by a 12 hour timer. The flush feature can also be operated by a manual flush switch when periodic cleaning and maintenance is required. When the flush timer or manual switch is activated, the flaker unit switches off within two minutes. One minute after either switch opens, the compressor shuts down. Followed a minute later by the gear motor and condenser fan. Next the flush valve opens allowing the complete water system to drain while on the flush timer the unit remains off for 15 minutes. Any ice remaining in the evaporator melts and the evaporator walls and chamber are completely flushed out. During this time, the inlet water valve will not be activated. During normal operation, the auger rotates inside the evaporator cylinder to break ice away from the cylinder walls and move it up to the extruding head and cutter. Because the auger is one of the major moving parts in the ice maker, it must be checked periodically for excessive bearing wear. Although flaker bearings are constructed of carbon impregnated resin, they may wear due to high mineral or silica content in the water. If not replaced, excessive bearing wear may cause damage to the auger and evaporator cylinder. To remove the auger for inspection, drain the water system, remove the clear ice shoot head and ice shoot bracket. Next, remove the stainless steel bolt that hold the cutter to the auger. Replace the bolt and use it to rock the auger back and forth to check for excessive play. To check for bearing wear, attempt to slip the 20,000th inch feeler gauge available through Hoshizaki between the auger bearing surface and bearing. If the bearing gap is more than .02 inches, replace both the top and bottom bearings. To remove the auger for bearing replacement, remove the allen head cap screws and water seals which hold the extruding head to the evaporator cylinder. Using the bolt and a large washer, or the cutter head installed upside down to hold the auger, lift the auger and extruding head up and out of the evaporator cylinder. When the auger has been lifted out, remove the extruding head and visually inspect the auger bearing surface for wear. The sleeve bearings are pressed into the extruding head and lower housing. To remove the lower housing, remove the allen head cap screws which hold the cylinder to the housing. Loosen the belly band screw, and lift the evaporator up about four inches. Then, tighten the screw to hold the evaporator in place. The housing and cylinder are sealed with an O ring. Care should be taken to protect the O ring for reuse. Or replace it when necessary when reassembling the unit. Remove the bolts at the base of the housing and remove the housing to replace the lower bearing. Have the bearings repressed and replace the parts in reverse order.

The auger design produces the highest quality ice with fewer repairs and less down time. Unlike most competitors who use greased roller bearings, we utilize our patented graphite sleeve-bearing technology. This eliminates the need for grease, providing cleaner ice, and longer life products. The auger design has energy efficiencies resulting in low-kilowatt consumption, which results in lower operating costs. Hoshizaki modular flaker and cubelet ice makers feature the unique, patented Clean Cycle design, which keeps the evaporator barrel clean by performing a 15 minute flush every 12 hours.