Fisher 44784 Wall Mounted 1/2" Brass Faucet Base with 8" Centers, Check Stems, Rigid Outlet, Wrist Handles, and Built-In Stop

Hi, this is Jeff. Today I'd like to talk to you about the difference between our 1/2" faucet line and our 3/4". On a 1/2" faucet, we learned on an earlier video that a 1/2" faucet is always defined by its inlets. The inlet of a 1/2" faucet is 1/2" on the inside. Using our close elbow... we always use those so we can fit this 90 degree turn within the 2" backsplash of the stainless steel sink. On a 3/4" faucet, the inlets are 3/4" inside diameter, and with a 3/4" faucet, the elbows are always included with the faucet for easy mounting onto a backsplash. So the elbows go on like that. Now, just to illustrate the difference again between the 3/4" and 1/2", 3/4" and 1/2" - big, big difference. One of the other differences between our 1/2" faucets and our 3/4" faucets is that we put an aerator on all of our 1/2" faucets. This aerator is a 2.2 gallon per minute (gpm) aerator, which happens to meet the standard code throughout the country. Now, if you happen to be chasing any LEEDS points, we make aerators from 5 gallon per minute all the way down to 0.5 gallon per minute. So, depending upon your application, we can supply the correct flow rate on any of our swing spouts for you. A 3/4" faucet, you'll notice, does not have an aerator on it, because it's a fill faucet, and we don't put an aerator on it, because we don't want any restriction at all. We want lots of water coming out of it. The faucet itself, just like our 1/2" line, has got stainless steel seats that are guaranteed for life, and a two-part swivel stem for low maintenance. The big difference of the stem assembly, of course, is that we use a full 3/4" opening through this seat to allow large flow out of the spout. With both these valves open all the way at about 60 pound of square inch of water coming in the back, we're going to get 33 gallon per minute coming out of this faucet. I like to picture a 55 gallon drum being filled up in about 1 1/2 minutes. That's a lot of water! As compared to a 1/2" faucet that would fill that same 55 gallon drum up in 25 minutes. So, whatever application you're using where you want a lot of water to fill something up quickly, you always want to go with the Fisher 3/4" faucet. Some of the applications where you may consider a Fisher 3/4" faucet would be pot sinks, scullery sinks, steam jacketed kettles, large pots, and anywhere where you really want a lot of water to fill a vessel. Fisher 3/4" faucets come in 8" on center backsplash, 8" on center wall, single wall, and a variety of swing spouts that are a full 1" diameter for the flow rate.... from 14" all the way down to 8", so these are designed to fit virtually any application that you might need a lot of water very quickly. Thanks for watching!

Hi, this is Jeff. Today I'd like to talk to you about 1/2" faucets. Whenever we talk about 1/2" faucets or 3/4" faucets, everyone wants to know the difference. Why is a 1/2" faucet a 1/2" faucet? Why do we call it that? And really, it's all about the pipe thread. On the 1/2" faucet, the inside diameter of the pipe is exactly a 1/2". That's why we call it a 1/2". The outside dimension is 3/4", which matches up a 3/4" outside, and a 1/2" on the inside, for a 1/2" faucet. That's what a 1/2" faucet is. Okay, so Fisher makes a variety of different types of different configurations of faucets. We make deck mount faucets, wall mount faucets, and backsplash mount faucets. When it comes to the spout, we make swing spouts, gooseneck spouts, double-jointed spouts, control spouts.... If you refer to the catalog, certainly you can find a faucet that would be perfect for your application. In addition to different styles of mounting and spout configurations, we also offer a variety of handles. Standard on all Fisher faucets is the standard lever handle; however, you can also pick up the optional cross handles and optional wrist blade handles. There's two things that we do differently that make Fisher the most specified brand in commercial foodservice. And that is... the first thing we do, is we use a stainless steel seat that's guaranteed for life. The reason why is that water is very corrosive and brass is very soft. Everyone else uses brass seats, so as the water flows in the bottom of the faucet and makes that first 90 degree turn to exist the faucet, the water will erode the brass seat. We use stainless steel seats that are screwed and glued into the faucet body, and we guarantee those for life. The second thing that we do is we use a two-part swivel stem, and what I mean by that is that at the end of the stem there is a seat washer. The seat washer is on a swivel, so that as the stem screws down the faucet body, as the seat washer makes contact with the stainless steel seat, it becomes a plunging action, rather than if this were all one piece, it would be a twisting and grinding action. Others all use a one-piece stem similar to this stem where the seat washer is attached right to the stem; so as this stem screws down through the body of the faucet and it makes contact with that seat, this seat washer is being torn up by an eroded brass seat. With Fisher, because it's on a swivel, as soon as this seat washer makes contact with the seat, it becomes more of a plunging action. This means longer life, lower maintenance. This is why we are specified. Just to recap, Fisher uses stainless steel seats that are guaranteed for life a two-part swivel stem for lower maintenance. So there's our 1/2" faucet line. Thanks for listening.

Hi, I'm Jeff. I'd like to talk to you a little bit about the differences between a wall-mounted faucet and a backsplash faucet. This information would apply to faucets and pre-rinse units. Wall mount faucets have eccentrics. Eccentrics are the hardware package where it is adjustable from 8 1/2" to 7 1/2", because the plumber when he's stubbing out into a wall, can never get those pipes exactly 8" on center, so there has to be some adjustability. In a backsplash-mounted faucet, the hardware looks similar to this, where it's not an eccentric; it's not adjustable. They come out exactly 8" on center, because the holes in the backsplash of the stainless steel sink are always computerized; they're always exactly 8" on center, so you don't need the adjustability. But when you talk about Fisher backsplash faucets, you get the male nipple where the lock nut and the washer go on so you can attach the faucet to the stainless steel backsplash. It's the correct hardware package for mounting a faucet to a stainless steel backsplash. Whether you have a wall-mounted or a backsplash faucet, the actual back of the faucets look identical. The only thing different is the hardware package that comes with either a wall mount or a backsplash. Okay, so let's take a look at a wall mount faucet and how you actually install a wall mount faucet onto a wall. The trim ring, the flange - what we call the flange - screws onto one half of the eccentric. You put that on both. And screw them all the way down. And then, you go to your wall and simply screw the eccentric onto the nipple assembly or the pipe sticking out of the wall. Screw both of them on. And you always want to use plumbing tape or plumbing putty to seal the threads. So with these eccentrics on, you can see that if you turn them one way or the other, they will actually go from about 7 1/2" all the way out to 8 1/2". So, with the eccentrics installed, the next thing we want to do is to install the two washers that come with it. No plumbing tape, no pipe sealant is required. You simply install the washers into the recessed area of the concentric, and then grab the body out of the faucet box. Screw it on. Now you noticed that I've got this one, this side screwed on. But this one doesn't line up. So all I really have to do is bring this around until it lines up to be exactly 8" on center. If it screws all the way onto the eccentrics, you know you've done it right. Now, what you want to do is you want to make sure that it is level. And then, the last thing we do, is bring the flange back all the way up against the wall. Tighten it up, and we use a wrench. Tighten up these nuts. And we've just installed the faucet on the wall. So what we want to do now, is installing a swing-spout faucet... what you do is each faucet contains a little tube of lubrication, and what you do... you put the lubrication all over the o-rings. And this helps not only just slide the spout into the faucet body, but it also lubricates the o-rings and makes the swing spout swing very easily. Line it up, straight up and down; it pops right in. And then you tighten down the spout nut. Check to make sure the valves work smoothly - and they do. A perfect wall-mounted application. Okay, now we're going to install the backsplash hardware package to the Fisher faucet. It's always easier to install the faucet if you have the swing-spout off, so we'll put that on later. So what we're going to do is install the washers into the concentrics. Install those onto the faucet body; just screw them in, nice and snug... wanting to make sure that these washers stay on the concentric and don't drop out. And you can see that because they thread all the way in, so we know they're secure. Then what we're going to do is put the flange onto the concentric, and we're going to want to screw those all the way down for installation. Later, what we're going to do is back them off and tighten them against the front of the stainless steel backsplash, but for right now we're going to screw them all the way down. Now what we'll do is take this faucet over and see if it fits in the holes. And it fits! Okay, so now from the rear of the sink, installing the washer and the lock nut onto the backsplash hardware... naturally, in the real world, if we were really installing this, we'd be using a wrench and really tightening this nut down tight. Now, using the optional elbow, you'd put plumbing tape - Teflon tape - around the threads, and then screwing the elbow onto the nipple and tightening it up until it's very tight. And then now, this is where the water supply line goes in. Now, you could run in copper or it could be a supply line. And you'll notice by using the Fisher elbow, that when the sink is up against the wall, using this ruler to illustrate the wall, what you've got is the elbow not interfering with the wall, so now the sink can fit up flush against the wall with no problem whatsoever. Okay, now that we're done behind the sink, the next thing we want to do is tighten down these flanges. They just tighten down against the stainless steel. Use a wrench and tighten them down very tight. And this secures the faucet to the backsplash. Next step is installing the swing-spout. Inside the faucet packaging you'll find a little thing of lubrication. You put the lubrication all over the o-rings; you get a lot of it on there, because the lubrication is going to help you install the spout, and it's also going to ensure that the spout can swing freely. When installing the spout, don't try to put it in on an angle; come in vertical into it, and you can feel it go all the way to the bottom. Tighten up the spout nut; ensure that the swing-spout swings free. Check your stem to make sure they're off. Turn the water on underneath the sink. And we've just installed a Fisher backsplash faucet. And that's the difference between a Fisher backsplash and a Fisher wall mount faucet or pre-rinse.