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  • Uses only 0.75 gallons of water per cycle
  • Cleans up to 30 racks per hour
  • 1 hp wash pump motor
  • Detergent and rinse pump
  • 208/240V

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CMA 180UC Undercounter Dishwasher Installation Part 1

CMA 180UC Undercounter Dishwasher Installation Part 1

I’m Giddeon Cats, national service manager for CMA dish machines. Here we have Model 180-UC undercounter high temperature dishwasher. When the dishwasher is received, you will find instructional information pre-attached to the machine. You will find at the top of the dishwasher cautionary labels that need to be followed for installation, wiring and plumbing, you will find all the installation information attached to the dish machine as well as at the bottom some instruction labels that need to be followed for both the heater and the cam timers setting everything up in the machine. Here we have the model 180UC undercounter dishwasher. This unit will require 140 degree water be supplied to the dishwasher, it’s going to need unrestricted water line, and it will require a 2” drain pipe or stand pipe located behind the dishwasher. The dishwasher does come with a drain hose already pre-attached, and a electrical whip with conduit already pre-attached to the dishwasher. The machine will require 208-240V to be supplied to it, which is a 4 wire configuration. The dishwasher also contains a drain pump for machines in locations that have to be pumped to drain, but if there is a four drain or four sink in the area of the dishwasher, it can be converted very easily to a gravity drain machine. Here we have the booster heater for the model 180UC, which is a fully integrated booster heater unit located again at the bottom left hand side of the dishwasher. At the top, you will find a thermostat, the high limit switch is located on the back wall directly behind it, it will come with a blue wire disconnected that needs to be connected, again after the machine has been filled with water. You have the element, as well as the thermostat entrance point. This is the water supply line that supplies the booster heater with water directly from the inlet valve, and it’s also connected to the pressure gauge, located on the front panel of the dish machine, which has been removed. The machine will require 4 wires connected to it, 2 hot lines for L1 and L2, and a neutral along with a ground. The dishwasher is supplied with a 6’ pig tail enclosed in a flexible conduit. The unit must be hardwired, with no exceptions. When installing the dishwasher, please remember to always follow all state and local plumbing and electrical codes. When the dishwasher is received, you will find 2 racks, 1 peg, and 1 flat rack inside the dishwasher, and you will also find and inspection sheet, please fill it out and send it back to CMA to register your machine for warranty. Located on the bottom right hand side of the dishwasher is where you will find the electrical connection control tray as well as the cam timer. And directly behind the timer are both of the contactors. Underneath you’ll also find the optional chemical dispenser if it is ordered when you place your order for the dishmachine. Please remember the dispenser cannot be added in the field, it must be factory installed. Here we have your chemical pumps, blue is for rinse aid, red is for detergent. Then you have the water supply line, connected to the water inlet valve which is connected to the supply line coming through your dishwasher. And here we are at the back of the dishwasher where you’ll find located using the back center is the vacuum breaker, the rinse aid injection point, this particular unit again has a chemical dispenser so it will come with a chemical injector, and a rinse line fully connected. If there is no dispenser connected to the dishwasher, you will find a brass plug connected at this point. Which needs to be removed to put in the chemical injection fitting for your wall mounted chemical dispenser. Here we have the conduit whip which is fully attached to the dishwasher. You have two hot lines, L1 and L2, a neutral and a ground. Please remember these must be hardwired to a dedicated circuit. You also have the drain hose fully connected to the dishwasher as well, which needs to be disconnected and connected to your drain line. Please remember, in the event that you do have a floor drain near your dishwasher, the pump can be simply removed and the dishwasher can be converted to a gravity drain machine. Please remember, whenever a floor drain is located near the machine, gravity draining is always recommended. Located on the bottom right hand side of the dishwasher is the detergent chemical bulkhead fitting when you have a built in dispenser it will already be pre-connected to the red detergent line. It will come with 2 chemical feedlines with tube stiffeners, one for each chemical. Blue again is the rinse aid, red is the detergent. You will also find the temperature probe for the rinse and the temperature probe for the wash tank. Located on the bottom left hand side of the dishwasher in the back you will find the water inlet valve assembly and the ball valve has a built-in line strainer to catch any debris from going into the dishwasher.

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This instructional video gives you a helpful breakdown of how to properly install your CMA 180UC undercounter dishwasher machine.

CMA 180UC Undercounter Dishwasher Installation Part 2

CMA 180UC Undercounter Dishwasher Installation Part 2

At the top of the dishwasher you’ll find all of the control switches, you have the power switch, which controls the power for dishwasher, you have the drain fill switch, you have the start cycle switch. On the left hand side of the machine you will find the temperature display for the wash, which will always be displayed, and for the final rinse, which will only come on during the rinse cycle. Located at the bottom right hand corner of the dishwasher in the front is the pressure gauge which will only be displayed when the dishwasher is running in the rinse cycle. Please remember the pressure should be between 20 and 22 psi. Located in the center of the front control panel is the screen for the scrap tank located at the front of the machine. The scrap tank is designed to have any debris floating in the tank into the scrap tray so you can remove it and you should check the screens daily. Located at the rear of the scrap tank at the bottom of the dishwasher directly underneath and behind the screen you will find another screen located at the very back of the tank. This screen is to ensure that no debris is drawn into the drain system. This screen also needs to be removed and cleaned on a daily basis. To reinstall repeat the same process and make sure the screen is seated properly in place. Inside the control tray again you have the main conduit connection for your power source, you have your cam timer for all of your operations of the machine, the start, rinse, wash, detergent, and the safe-t temp cam. Safe-t temp is a feature that will prevent the dishwasher from going into the final rinse until the booster heater thermostat has been satisfied and the temperature for the booster heater will be 180-195 degrees. You also have the booster heater contactor and the main wash pump contactor, as well as machine’s ground connections. In the center of the dishwasher control drawer you’ll find the main power terminal. If the unit does not have the chemical dispensers installed, we supply two connection points for your detergent and rinse signals. Again blue is for the rinse aid and red is for the detergent. Located inside the wash tank you’ll find both the wash arms and the rinse arms. The rinse arms are the smaller tubes of the two arms, as well as the wash arms are the larger. There are two arms for the wash, one located at the bottom and one at the top, as well as the final rise, located at the bottom and the top of the machine. To remove the arms, there is a neural fitting at the center of the hub, simply unscrew the hub and remove the arms, both for the top and for the bottom. They are both interchangeable so it doesn’t matter which one you put back, and they’ll only fit in the proper positions. You’ll also find a scrap tray inside the bottom of the wash tank which will prevent debris from going into the wash pump and the wash system assembly. This screen should be cleaned after every service and at the end of every day. I have removed one of the final rinse arms. You have the center connection point, and then you have your rinse jets as well as the end plugs. To clean this arm, you want to remove the end plug on both ends and you want to clean it out using water at your sprayer or a brush if you have one. You can also clean these by soaking them in descaler which can be purchased from your chemical supplier. Please remember, if you are going to be cleaning the rinse jets or the wash jets, in either one of the arms, do not use any metal objects, only use plastic or even a wooden toothpick to clean out the holes. Reassemble the arms, remember to tighten the ends caps, because you don’t want them to fall off during operation, if they fall off during operation, you’ll get water splashing out the front door and that will be a sign that you need to check the arms. Reinstall the arms by simply putting it into place and using the neural nut to tighten it down. Now that the model 180UC has been installed and is fully connected to both water and power, it is time to go over the final installation check list. Check to make sure the dish machine is level after it was set in place. Check all electrical connections to insure they are tight and secure. Check all water, drain, and plumbing connection for leaks, and tighten if necessary. Check all wash arms to make sure they are installed correctly. Check final rinse arms to make sure they have also been installed and tightened correctly. Check the wash-tank temperature; should be 150-160 degrees, 155 degrees is recommended. Check the final rinse temperature should be set between 180-195 degrees. Check final rinse pressure 20 psi is recommended plus or minus 5 psi. Please also remember to read all labels and follow all installation procedures. Please remember to view this section before beginning the installation of the CMA model 180UC undercounter dishwasher, all installation procedures and guidelines should be followed during installation.

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Ensure you have properly installed your CMA 180UC undercounter dishwasher by watching this helpful tutorial!

CMA 180UC Undercounter Dishwasher Training Part 1

CMA 180UC Undercounter Dishwasher Training Part 1

Welcome to CMA Dishmachines and the CMA school of training. This instructional video will be covering the model 180-UC installation and servicing of the high temp undercounter dishwasher. In the event one of your customers or somebody breaks off or damages the switch cover for anyone of these switches at the top of the dishwasher they can be replaced independently of the entire switch. The two switches that are identical are the start / cycle switch and the on / off switch which would be part numbers 421.41 and the drain switch is part number 3481.01. These part numbers are located in the parts manual and can be ordered from CMA dishmachines or your chemicals supplier and parts distributors. Please remember all of our manuals are available at the CMA website at www.cmadishmachines.com/products.html. The right hand side of the control tray we have the auto start relay. In the center of the dishwasher in the control drawer you will find the main power terminal. If the unit does not have the chemical dispensers installed, we supply two connection points for your detergent and your rinse signals. Again blue is for your rinse aid, red is for your detergent. And this over here is the ice cube relay for your safety temp feature which will not allow the dishwasher to go into final rinse unless the temperature for the thermostat has been reached. We have the temperature display as well as the transformer which steps down the power from 110 volts to 10 volts to operate the display. Remember that the wash tank temperature will always be displayed, and the final rinse temperature will only be displayed during the final rinse. The wash tank temperature should be set for 150 to 160 degrees and the final rinse should be set between 180 and 195 degrees. For convenience and display purposes i have removed the rinse aid and detergent pump from the dishwasher. Located at the front of the dishwasher and the front of the assembly, you will find the adjustments for the detergent and the rinse aid. These control the speed of the detergent and the rinse aid pumps to dispense the proper amount of chemical. Please remember, these pumps are not programmed at the factory and need to be adjusted by your chemical provider. The pump system assembly has two chemical pumps located at the side of the machine through the access panel that we saw earlier. If the pumps need to be serviced themselves, you can simply loosen the two locking clamps and take the pump off for service. When you put it back on, all you do is put it into place and push until you hear a click and the pumps are put into place. The blue line is for rinse aid, the red line is for your detergent, and they are carried to the back of the dishwasher through hoses that are fed out the back of the machine and already are pre-attached to the rinse aid injection point by the vacuum breaker as well as the back bulkhead fitting for the wash tank. And you'll have two tube stiffeners at the end of each line so that chemical pumps stay primed and you do not lose the tubes from your chemical bucket or one gallon jug. Please remember that these chemical pumps cannot be field installed. They must be factory installed at CMA dishmachines. They do not have the wiring harnesses available to them. They need to be installed here at the factory before shipping. Here we have the 1/2" stainless steel dema valve which is being used in the model 180-UC. To disassemble the valve and replace the diaphragm, remove the cover. You will see the solenoid base plate. You'll see the coil and the wire connections. First remove the screw holding the coil in place. Remember, below the coil and the base plate in between the two is a spacer that is required to keep the coil a specific height off the valve. Remove that first. Here we see the valve disassembled with the coil off the valve and you can see the spacer that i was talking about. This needs to remain when you put it back together again between the coil and the mounting plate. Then simply remove the other 3 screws to be able to remove the diaphragm. Here we have the valve apart with the mounting plate off, and to get to the diaphragm, simply remove this top cover where you'll see the plunger and the spring and the diaphragm itself. This is the diaphragm that can be replaced. Remember, this valve will always come with a spare diaphragm because it is supplied by the manufacturer and that's how the valve will come standard. Remove any debris that may have been caught up underneath, replace if necessary. To install the new diaphragm or to put the valve back together, simply repeat the process backwards. Take the diaphragm and put it in place, take your diaphragm cover, your spring first if you want to add more pressure to the valve to hold back higher pressure water. Some buildings pressures vary. Stretch the spring just a little. Place it inside the cover. Take your plunger that has the pointy end that goes down to the valve and the other end that goes to the spring, place it back in place and then reinstall it on the valve and put the mounting bracket back in place. Here we have the spare replacement diaphragm kit from CMA. It is provided with a replacement diaphragm, spring, and plunger. When reassembling the valve, remember to put the screw in first, the clear spacer second, and then place it on the valve, keeping the wire connections toward the conduit opening. Now that we have the coil in place, reinstall the other screws. The valve is reassembled. Remember always keep the cover in place when in service. To remove the drain pump, at the back of the dishwasher to convert the 180-UC to a gravity drain machine, the first thing you want to do is remove or cut the tie wrap holding the drain hose in place, which is connected to the drain pump. The drain pump is located at the bottom of the machine, bolted down to the base. You want to remove the cover for the electrical connection. After removing the cover, separate the two wires coming from the dishwasher. Remove the two blue wire nuts, separate the wires and put the wire nuts back on the two wires. Wrap them up individually with electrical tape first and then I prefer to put them both together and put more electrical tape holding them together. Please remember these wires will always be live.

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Check out this quick video to learn the ins and outs of the CMA 180UC undercounter dishwasher!

CMA 180UC Undercounter Dishwasher Training Part 2

CMA 180UC Undercounter Dishwasher Training Part 2

Then, come over to the drain valve and remove the hose clamp, holding the drain pump to the drain valve at that point. Going to remove the hose from the gooseneck connection, you’re going to loosen up the hose clamp located at the drain valve, and you’re going to loosen the screw holding down the drain pump and simply remove the pump. Now that we have the drain pump removed, all you need to do is connect the drain hose which is supplied with the dishwasher to the 3-way valve where you have removed the drain pump from. Also, remember that when converting a dishwasher to gravity drain, the floor drain or floor sink must be lower than the 3-way valve. The CMA dishwasher will now be a gravity drain dishwasher and the scrap drain at the front of the machine will no longer contain any water at any time, it will always go down the drain. Here we have the three way valve removed from the dishwasher, so we can go over how it operates and how to change seals inside the valve. When the valve has been removed, you want to loosen the four screws holding the valve to the body of the valve drive motor. You also want to take the spring because it is spring loaded and it drives open and spring shut, you want to move it to the top of the valve and loosen the connection screws holding the valve body in place. Now that we have removed the drive motor from the valve itself, we’re going to open up the valve body which is a split body design for easy access and service. There are four screws located inside the bottom of the valve. Now that we have the valve body separated, you can see the valve hinge seal inside as well as the main valve housing seal located here. You would take the valve seal, replace it, and then reassemble the valve body. The best way to do it is to make sure that the connection point is crosswise with the valve and then all you need to do is put the valve body back in place. Before tightening all of the screws, you want to load the spring tension back to the valve. You want to take the valve spring using the post that’s provided and manipulate it to the top of the valve, then tighten all of the screws. And the valve tension will always be on the valve at the upper right hand corner of the valve. And the valve is now put together. The wash pump is located directly behind both the 3-way drain valve and the drain pump. To remove the wash pump, the first thing we need to do is to remove both the drain valve and the drain pump. I prefer to remove them as an assembly. Start with disconnecting the power from the dishwasher by turning off the main circuit breaker. Disconnect the two wires connect to the drain pump, again removing the hose clamp connected to the wash tank, the drain line for the gooseneck, and the third line at the back of the drain valve connecting to the lower scrap tank. We’re going to remove it as one complete assembly, leaving the drain pump and drain valve attached together for simple reinstallation into the machine. Here we see the wash pump more clearly and the last thing to remove before we can get to taking out the wash pump is the water inlet assembly. To remove the water system assembly, you want to disconnect the screw holding down the support bracket, and then we’re going to disconnect the stainless steel braided water supply hose that goes to the booster heater as well as the pressure gauge. Here we have the water valve assembly. You have the water valve, again it has a line strainer built into the valve to catch debris to keep it out of the water valve. You have the stainless steel Dema water valve, it’s a half-inch valve, stainless steel. And then you’re going to remove the water line connected from the dishwasher. Remove it from the machine. Now we’ll be able to see and access the wash pump more directly. You’ll want to remove the bolts holding down the wash pump assembly itself, there’s one located in the front of the pump, and there’s one located at the back of the pump, and you can access either one of them from the sides, rear, or from the access panel underneath, there’s an opening underneath the dishwasher. As well as you have a compression nut at the front of the pump, where the intake is for the wash pump. It also can be accessed from the bottom of the machine, there is an access hole. We’re going to remove the pump now. Here we have the wash pump assembly that we have removed from the dishwasher. This wash pump is a stainless steel pump, and it contains a stainless steel impeller. You want to remove the number ten bolts holding on the pump head and remove the pump head itself. Here you can see the stainless steel impeller which is held in place by the locking nut. To remove the lock nut from the front of the pump, at the rear of the pump on the center of the housing, you have a large hole opening for a blade screw driver. The screwdriver can be inserted into the opening and you hold the motor shaft in place and simply remove the nut, taking off the impeller to get to the pump seals and the pump housing rear cover plate. And here you can see I’ve reinstalled the wash pump and the drain pump as well as the three way drain valve. Remember, check all connections at the back of the machine. You’ll have to either replace the tiewrap u’s or install a new hose clamp, you’ll have to make sure that the drain pump is securely in place, and the wires are tightened. At this point if you did want to convert the machine to a gravity drain when finding that a machine was not installed as a gravity drain, this would be a good opportunity to do so. Reconnect the wires to the drain pump, make sure all of the hoses connections are secure and tight, you have no leaking. Reinstall the water valve assembly, attaching the stainless steel braided hose to the front of the assembly.

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Continue your education on CMA 180UC undercounter dishwasher maintenance with this short video. If you want to learn how to maintain components of your machine, this is a great way to become familiar with the inner workings of your dishwasher.

Width 24 Inches
Depth 25 Inches
Height 33 1/4 Inches
Amps 33 - 35 Amps
Hertz 60 Hertz
Phase 1
Voltage 208/240
Booster Heater Included Yes
Booster Wattage 5.3 - 6.5 Kilowatts
High or Low Temp High Temp
Horsepower 1 HP
Interior Clearance 14 1/2 Inches
Racks Per Hour 30
Type Undercounter Dishwashers
Wash Cycle Time 120 Seconds
Wash Tank Capacity 2.5 gal.
Water Inlet Size 1/2 Inches
Water Temperature 155 - 195 Degrees F
Water Usage 0.75 Gallons Per Rack


Use this CMA 180UCD high temperature undercounter dishwasher to quickly and efficiently clean soiled dishware and glassware! This undercounter dish machine comes with a detergent and rinse pump and can wash up to 30 racks per hour with only 0.75 gallons of water per cycle! Upper and lower stainless steel wash arms rotate for excellent cleaning and rinsing, and it incorporates an automatic soil purging system which traps plate debris in a removable external tray, keeping the wash water clean.

- Detergent and rinse pump

- Built-in 5.3 kW booster heater (90 degrees)

- 2.5 gallon wash tank; 1 hp wash pump motor

- All stainless steel construction

- Top mounted controls

- Upper and lower wash arms rotate for superior cleaning

- It requires a 208/240V electrical connection

Overall Dimensions:
Width: 24"
Depth: 25"
Height: 33 1/4"
Inside Chamber Clearance: 14 1/2"

This Item Ships via Common Carrier. For more information and tips to help your delivery go smoothly, click here.

Because this item is not stocked in our warehouse, processing, transit times and stock availability will vary. If you need your items by a certain date, please contact us prior to placing your order. Expedited shipping availability may vary. We cannot guarantee that this item can be cancelled off of the order or returned once it is placed.

  • NSF Listed

    NSF Listed

    This item meets the standards imposed by NSF International, which focuses on public safety, health, and the environment.

  • Made in America

    Made in America

    This item was made in the United States of America.

  • Energy Star Qualified

    Energy Star Qualified

    This item has been Energy Star Qualified by the US Environmental Protection Agency and the US Department of Energy, making it an energy-efficient product.

  • UL US & Canada

    UL US & Canada

    This item has been tested and meets safety standards imposed by the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) for use in the United States of America and Canada.

  • Hardwired


    This product must be hardwired; it does not plug into a standard wall outlet.

  • 1/2

    1/2" Water Connection

    This unit comes with a 1/2" water connection.

Spec Sheet Specsheet Warranty Warranty

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Warranty Info

RESIDENTIAL USERS: Vendor assumes no liability for parts or labor coverage for component failure or other damages resulting from installation in non-commercial or residential applications. The right is reserved to deny shipment for residential usage; if this occurs, you will be notified as soon as possible.

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