It is now time to set up and complete the installation for the E-temp booster heater. Once you have the e-temp booster heater all set up, your water and power are flowing, the simplest and most easiest way to accomplish the filling of the booster heater is to run several racks through the dishwasher, allowing the final rinse switch to be activated naturally by your dish rack, and the booster heater will fill with water. Once you have water flowing from the final rinse arms, at the exit of the machine, you’ll know that the booster heater is full. If you’d like to do it without running racks through the machine, what you can do is reach inside the entrance, activate the start reach switch by the start lever inside the dishwasher, which we’ll see later, then use your magnet, place it on top the final rinse reid switch and you’ll activate the final rinse. Again, once you have water flowing from the final rinse arms, the dishwasher’s booster heater is completely filled with water. Now you’ve finished filling the E-temp booster heater with water, it’s time to make the final connections to your booster heater. First, turn off the power to your dishwasher, and turn off both circuit breakers for both EST-44 and your e-temp booster heater at your circuit box. You want to take the wire that was disconnected and remove the tag that was attached and make your final connection to your high limit switch. Apply power back to your dish machine, then apply power to your booster heater. Allowing your booster heater to come to temperature. Please note that there is a temperature gauge located here inside this particular machine, this dishwasher is located in our show room and is used for demonstration purposes. You will normally find a freeze plug later in this position for easy access and draining of the booster heater for service and maintenance. Now it is time to turn our attention to setting the thermostats for the wash tank and the power rinse tank. The wash tank in a high temperature application as this one, to be set for a minimum of 150 degrees. No more than 160. In a low temperature application, the minimum temperature should be set at 120 with no more than 140 degrees. The power rinse tank for a high temperature application should be a minimum of 160 degrees, and no more than 170 degrees. For low temperature applications, the power rinse tank should be set at a minimum of 120 degrees, no more than 140. The temperature gauge is located at the center of the dishwasher, the wash tank and the power rinse tank. To adjust the final rinse temperatures in the e-temp booster heaters, the thermostat is located at the very top of the booster heater inside the main control panel of the unit. The temperature gauge and pressure gauge for the final rinse are located over the final rinse section of the dish machine. To begin setting the temperatures in both the wash and power rinse tank, begin by feeding several racks through the dishwasher and observe the temperatures of the machine. And then we’re going to make the adjustments for the thermostats. Now time to turn our attention to the final rinse and the e-temp booster heater and its thermostat. The temperature gauge again is located on top on the right hand side of this machine, where the final rinse goes into the machine, and you wanna observe the temperature while the final rinse is running, and you have racks running through the dishwasher. Adjust the thermostat located inside the e-temp booster heater and the final rinse temperature needs to be set between 180-195. Now we have the temperatures adjusted appropriately, it’s time to turn our attention to the final rinse pressure. Maintain running racks through the dishwasher, and here you can see the pressure of the final rinse in the pressure gauge, on the left hand side of the dishwasher. The final rinse pressure should be set at 20 psi, no more than 25. For optimum running pressure, 20-23 psi is recommended. Now that we’ve located the temperature gauges for the wash and power rinse tank at the top of the dishwasher, it’s finally time to make your final adjustments for the temperatures in the wash and power rinse tank. For the wash tank, the thermostat is located on the bottom right of the machine in the wash tank. The thermostat control is marked with a positive and negative arrow, showing you which direction to turn the thermostat to increase or decrease the temperature. The wash tank thermostat should be set for a minimum of 150 degrees in high temperature applications. In low temperature applications, a minimum of 120 degrees is required but no more than 140 degrees Fahrenheit. For the power rinse tank, the thermostat is located on the left hand side of this particular dishwasher again, with the same positive and negative arrows to increase or decrease the temperature. In a high temperature application, the power rinse tank thermostat should be set for a minimum of 160 degrees Fahrenheit. For low temperature applications, it should be set for a minimum of 120 degrees, and no more than 140 degrees Fahrenheit. While the final rinse is running, if you don’t have the proper setting already done for your machine, simply adjust the pressure regulator, located on the plumbing system for the final rinse. Remember, when you’re adjusting the pressure for the final rinse, it needs to be set between 20-23 psi for optimum final rinse pressure. You’ll notice inside this gauge you’ll see an air pocket up top. The fluid inside this gauge is not water; it is an oil which stabilizes your measurement. If you’re in an area and you’ve received a unit that has a larger air bubble than you require, simply while the rinse is running, lift up the little yellow flag, allow the air bubble to vent, and once you’ve done and moved as much air as you want, please remember to return it to the down position. This little piece cannot be removed from the gauge or you will evacuate all of the oil and you’ll have to replace the gauge. Now we’ve completed setting the temperatures for both the wash and the power rinse tank, it’s time to turn our attention to setting the temperature and pressure for the final rinse. Located at the bottom of the machine, on the clean side, you’ll find the new, brother gear drive assembly. It is a drive motor and matching gear assembly for the new EST-44 and 66 inch conveyors. The drive assembly drives the conveyor arm and operates the spring retention clutch for the drive arm. Once you have the dishwasher fully installed, water and power connected, we’re now going to make the final adjustments, if necessary, to the conveyor drive.
Learn how to properly install and use your E-temp booster heater and other related conveyor dishwasher functions with this simple step-by-step tutorial from CMA!
For demonstration purpose, we’ve removed the top half of the conveyor so we can show you the inside of the tank as well as the conveyor drive bar, the rack drive rails, the new dual float system for the EST-44 and 66” conveyor, and the internal workings and operation of the machine. First, what we’re going to start with is the new EST-44 and 66” dual float system. The new dual float switch is contained inside an easy access control box which is held in by the one bolt and nut. Both the wash tank and the power rinse tank contain their own switches. So I will remove the cover for the switch, I’m going to remove the wash arms by pulling them forward and lifting up in the back, removing them individuals. Removing both of the scrap trays allowing for better viewing of both the float switch and the tank itself. Here you’ll see the new dual float switch for CMA, it is a dual float system, the bottom flat will ensure that the wash tank heater has been covered with water before it’s about to activate and come on. The water level is then controlled by the top float switch, and when the float is completely raised, the wash tank is completely full of water. If the water level should drop in this particular tank, the float switch will turn on the main water valve, refilling it with water. Located in the same tank is the heating element as well as the thermostat, which you can see inside the tank. Again located as you saw earlier, above the wash tank, is the detergent bulkhead fitting access, which we’ve discussed where the bulkhead fitting should be for your detergent which is directly over the wash tank. On this side of the wash tank is the overflow which is used to carry any debris out of the machine while it’s in operation, keeping the dish water as clean as possible and free of debris. Located next to the overflow, you’ll also find an access to install a quick drain return line if you have a quick drain in your dish table. In the event your table does not have a quick drain unit, you will just leave this plug in place, making sure it doesn’t leak during operation. If it is required, you’ll find the quick drain plumbing supplies located with your unit’s installation information. Please put it in. Now we’re going to first reinstall the wash arms, when you put the wash arms in, please note, there is a front and back to the wash arm, on the back end, you will find a larger guide than in the front, what you’re going to do is simply put it in the front, pull it forward, and allow it to snap into place. Now we’re going to make the final adjustments for the dishracks so they travel evenly and level through the dish machine. First, there are 3 things to be aware of. Each rail, front and rear, can be adjusted, as well as the conveyor drive arm which holds the conveyor drive dogs. So you want to align the dishrack into the machine and you can make the adjustments at either side by loosening up inside and outside on the front and rear, and make your up and down adjustments to make sure it is level. You want to make sure they ride smoothly through the machine. If the conveyor dogs are not grasping or dragging the rack properly through the machine, there is one more adjustment you can make. On either side of the drive side rail bar, you have a small adjustment which can be made to either raise or lower the drive bar. Slide the rack in, observe how the dog grabs each rack, if you need to raise or lower the rack, make your adjustments appropriately. Sliding the rack in, the dog will grab the rack, and start pushing it through the machine. The first activation lever is for your machine start, the dishwasher will start, and the conveyor drive will start bringing the rack through the machine. Once the rack has traveled through the machine, through the wash tank, it’ll come through the power rinse tank. As the final rinse switch is activated, triggering the final excursion of the machine, observe the rack exiting the dishwasher. Make the final adjustments on this end of the tray track as necessary as you did at the beginning of the machine, so the rack leaves the dishwasher level and even with the dish table. The power rinse tank also contains a float switch, which controls the level of the water in this tank. Remove the scrap tray and the arm for better viewing. The arms remove just like the wash tank arms, it does have the same pins at the front and the rear so you know you have it installed at the proper direction, and the float switch is now revealed as well as the heating element. This tank is slightly deeper than the wash tank, because the water flows in this direction. When the float in this tank is activated, again the lower float when it rises, it will make sure that the heating element can come on when there is water in the tank and the level of the tank is controlled by the float. These floats are identical in these machines so you’re not having to stop more than one part in the event that it does need to be replaced.
Learn the proper technique for tweaking and adjusting your CMA conveyor dishwasher’s dish drive by watching this simple tutorial! The drive helps guide the rack through the wash tank, so having it properly installed is very important.
Welcome to CMA dish machines and the CMA school of learning. This presentation will teach you how to properly operate the CMA conveyor dishwashers and will cover the following topics: filling and operating the dishwasher, washing procedures, draining and cleaning the dishwasher. You might say protecting the public's health begins with the dishwasher. Your customers will expect safe food, which begins with good sanitation practices resulting in clean dishes. The main control box is located at the top of the CMA conveyor dishwashers. All of the latest CMA conveyor dishwashers are designed with one-button operation. This feature will turn on the power and fill the dishwasher with water. The CMA conveyor dishwasher is designed to be easily filled and operated. First of all, before filling the dishwasher with water, close the two drains located beneath the machine. Next, push the power on and off button. The machine will fill with water. When you observe the water overflowing into the scrap accumulator, both tanks will be full of water. Observe the temperatures in both the wash and rinse tank to be sure they are both at the proper operating range. For low temperature operation, the wash tank should be a minimum of 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The rinse temperature should be 155 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. For high temperature operation, the wash tank should be a minimum of 150 degrees with a maximum of 160 degrees Fahrenheit. The final rinse water temperature must be a minimum of 180 degrees with a maximum temperature of 195 degrees Fahrenheit. Now that the dishwasher is filled with hot water, and the temperatures are reasonably correct, the dishwasher is ready for use. Always be sure to check your supply of detergent, rinse aid, and sanitizer. The chemical feed lines are color coded: Red for detergent, blue for rinse aid, white for sanitizer. The sanitizer is only used for low temperature operation. Make sure each chemical line is in the appropriate container. As the dirty dishes are returned to the dishwashing area, dishes must be sorted by size. Place a plate of each size on the soil table and sort the dishes accordingly. The plates should be racked placing the larger plates to the back of the rack and the smaller plates to the front. Be careful not to over stack or crowd the dish racks. The dishes must be prerinsed with the prerinse sprayer before they are sent through the dish machine. The better you prerinse, the better your results will be. Now you've thoroughly rinsed the dishes. Place the dish rack into the entrance of the dishwasher. Do not push the rack too far. The dishwasher will automatically start to pull the dishrack through. Glasses and cups must be placed in the proper glass rack. When the rack is full, push the rack into the entrance of the dishwasher. Once the glasses are through the dishwasher, tipping the glass rack slightly will speed the drying process. All CMA conveyor dishwashers utilize a table limit switch. The switch, when activated, will interrupt the dishwashers operation. Keeping the switch clear by promptly removing exiting racks will ensure uninterrupted operation. Be sure to properly wash your hands before handling clean dishes. Remember, clean dishes help assure happy customers. Stainless steel flatware must be presoaked in a presoak detergent in a tub. The flatware should be soaked for a minimum of 15 minutes prior to washing for good results. Be sure to check with your chemical dealer for proper product usage. Once the flatware has been presoaked, place the flatware into a flat rack, prerinse thoroughly, and push the rack into the entrance of the dishwasher. Upon exiting the dishwasher, the flatware must be sorted and placed in special baskets with the handles down and run through the dishwasher a second time. Now that the flatware is clean and sanitized, they can be transferred into a clean container and are ready for use. Under no circumstances should you ever use a towel to dry a dish, glass, or flatware. All eating utensils must be air dried to assure proper sanitation. Draining and cleaning the CMA conveyor dishwashers. For best results, the dishwasher should be cleaned after each service. To drain and clean, first turn off the power switch, open the front inspection door, and open the two drains located at the bottom of the dishwasher. Allow the dishwasher to drain and cool. Next, remove the curtains and clean them with a mild detergent. Caution should be used when placing the curtains back into the dish machine. Note the location of the short and long curtains. Long inside, short inside. Inspect the upper and lower wash and rinse arms for debris. If the arms are clogged, remove them from the dishwasher. To remove the upper arms, hold the back of the arm, pulling the arm forward toward the front of the dishwasher. Then, pull down on the back portion of the spray arm. To remove the lower arms, hold the back of the arm, pull the arm forward toward the front of the dishwasher, and then pull up on the back portion of the spray arm. Once removed, use a toothpick or brush, along with the prerinse sprayer, to clean. Replace the arms. Remove and clean the three scrap trays inside the dishwasher. Dump the scraps into a waste receptacle and use the prerinse sprayer to clean the trays. Always remember to clean the scrap accumulator tray and rinse thoroughly before replacing it. Prior to replacing parts back inside the dishwasher, be sure to use the prerinse sprayer to clean out any debris. Following the final cleaning of the day, allow the dishwasher and its parts to air dry. Remember, your job is very important. By following these simple washing procedures and cleaning instructions, you will experience sparkling clean and sanitized dishes that everyone will be proud of.
Ensure your CMA conveyor dishwasher produces clean and sanitized dishes every time by following these daily cleaning steps! Whether you have a low or high temperature CMA unit, this video will help you easily clean plates, glasses, and utensils.
Welcome to CMA dish machines at the CMA school of training. I’m Gideon Cats, the national service manager for CMA dish machines, and today we’re going to be discussing the EST-44 and the EST-66 conveyors and how they are properly installed and set up. The EST-44 and 66 conveyors both use .49 gallons of water per wash rack and they’ll produce 243 racks per hour of continuous use. The unit requires 140 degree water supplied to the dish machine and also the booster heater. When installing this machine you should make sure that your water and your electrical is set at the proper height by your electricians, and please follow all electrical codes for your state municipality. The e-temp booster heater is available in 40 degree rise which must be specified when you are ordering, it is available in single or three phase, and the whole unit is fully available in 480 volts. This unit also has vent hood adapters mounted on it, so you can bring your vents down to the machine and pant legs, not requiring the big hood over the machine. Both the e-temp booster heater as well as the EST-44 conveyor will both have their data plates mounted on the side of the control box for the conveyor, right on the very front of the control box for the e-temp booster heater. They’ll both display the proper voltages and the amperage draw of each unit so the proper circuit breaker and wire size can be provided by your electrician. Please remember to always follow the state and local electrical codes when wiring your machines. Now to begin the installation. Now we’ve placed the dishwasher, made sure it’s properly leveled, and we’re going to start with the water connections. Making the final rinse connections, a dual point water connection for this unit will have again the same water valve located at the front of the rinse before the pressure regulator, you will have your water inlet valve, a vacuum breaker, and your pressure gauge. This particular unit has an e-temp booster heater fully integrated to the machine, so it has a double street elbow, which will first bring the water from the valve directly to the booster heater and then returning to the machine. The return line from the booster heater, you have the pressure gauge, the vacuum breaker, the temperature gauge which is measured right in the final rinse line, just before the chemical injection point. For the rinse aid, and in low temp applications, the sanitizer. Inside the control box is the main contactor, the wash tank contactor, the prewash contactor, the power rinse pump, the wash pump, as well as the conveyor motor drive contactor. And in this particular unit, when the e-temp booster heater is installed on the dish machine, you’ll also find the main contractor for the e-temp booster heater, which requires a separate power supply. On the right hand side of the control box, you’ll find where the table limit switch is installed, the detergent and rinse signals are located, and also the terminal for powering your chemical dispenser. Inside the control box is also the conveyor motor timer, which come set from the factory, so there is really no need to adjust it, and the unit is fully ready to accept power from your power supply. The first thing you wanna do is locate the knock out and its location in the bottom left hand corner for your main power wires for the EST-44. You wanna bring your first lines to your main contactor, if you have a single phase machine; please remember that you are going to use L1 and L3. When you have a 3 phase machine, you’ll also connect L2. Before connecting a 3 phase machine, you always want to remember to check the voltage on each line, make sure they are all equal, and if one leg is higher than the other, which is commonly known as a high leg or wild leg, that always should be connected to the L2 terminal. The L2 terminal does not affect the operation of any of the machine; it goes straight and directly to each one of the 2 heaters inside the dishwasher. Now when you are connecting the e-temp booster heater to the main contactor inside the control box, you’re going to locate the knock-out for your power cable and conduit, which will be right in the upper right hand corner of the control box. Bring in your lines and again, for a single phase machine you want to use the L1 and L3 terminals, and for a 3 phase machine, you would use the L2 terminal. And just because you want to stay consistent, please always remember if you have a high leg, again, please bring it to the L2 terminal here in the middle. And now you have wired completely the EST-44 as well as you would wire the EST-66 conveyor for main power. Now it’s time to install and mount the EST-44 external scrap tank. The scrap tank will come inside the dishwasher in a hardware box. Remove the tank and its mounting bracket. Mount the bracket to the external leg of the machine at the entrance side of the dishwasher using the hardware supplied. Once the mounting bracket is in place, place the tank on top of the bracket and connect the drain line. You’ll now notice I removed the lower kick pan for the machine so you can clearly see the motors. All of the reeve switches, as well as the drain connections and the drain valves. When installing the machine, you wanna locate your foredrain or your drain, and you wanna determine which side you wanna connect to. The unit has the availability to have a left or right drain, it is of your choice, the unit is a gravity drain machine, so you need to set your drains appropriately. The scrap tank is connected via a T, or a Y of your choosing, but please remember when installing T’s you need to make sure that the unit will not back up into the scrap tank before it drains. Now that you have water and power already connected to your dishwasher, the first thing we’re going to check is the proper motor rotation of the wash pump. What you are going to do is remove the cap at the back of the wash pump, and you’ll be able to observe the motor shaft. The proper direction for the motor shaft to turn is clockwise. You’ll also notice on this motor’s base, there’s a directional arrow to remind you. At the top of the machine, you’ll find labeled on the bottom right hand side a switch that is labeled auto and manual. So what you’re going to do is turn the switch to manual, let the motor run for just a moment, and observe the rotation of the motor after you’ve turned it off. If the motor is running the wrong direction, you need to return to the control box and move the L1 terminal to the L3 terminal to change the direction of the motor. The L1 terminal is located here, and the L3 terminal is located here. On a 3 phase machine, this is very important to make sure that you have the proper motor rotation. And always remember, when you are making any changes to turn off the power at the breaker, and make sure all the terminals are tight before you reestablish the power to the dishwasher. Now you’ve completed checking the motor rotation, ensuring that the motor is running the proper direction, which is clockwise, replace the cap on the back of the motor and make sure it is on tight. Now you’ve placed the machine, you have the water and the power connected, the dishwasher is level, your drains are fully installed, the last connections to make at the bottom of the machine is going to be your chemical injection fitting, or bulkhead fitting, at the rear of the dishwasher for your detergent. If the machine has already been placed, set up by your dealer, your chemical supplier will need to understand where the bulkhead fitting is properly located in the machine. Open the door to the wash cabinet, the access panel, and you’ll see the inside of the dishwasher. Located inside of the machine, you’ll find a blue plug located in the back wall of the dishwasher. That is the proper location for the chemical detergent bulkhead fitting. And the detergent conductivity probe location is at the bottom of the machine, located next to the wash tank thermostat. Remember, if the conductivity probe is not going to be used for your chemical dispenser, leave the plug and in place and check for links during operation, tightened if necessary. Now what we’re going to do is we’re going to fill the machine with water, then we’re going to finish connecting the E-temp booster heater so we can set the proper temperature for your final rinse. Lower the front access door, remove the panel from the E-temp booster heater, this is the E-temp booster heater. The booster heater will come with one of the 2 wires for the high limit switch disconnected. We will also have a bright tag located on it letting you know that you should not connect this wire until after the booster heater has filled with water. Turn on the main power switch located on the side of the control panel for the dish machine. The dishwasher will begin to fill with water. The fill function of this machine is completely controlled by a new float system designed specifically for CMA dish machines, and is part of the new technology located inside the EST-44 inch conveyor. Now for wiring the E-temp booster heater. The E-temp booster heater can be wired as a single or three phase unit. It does require a separate power supply, so you can have your machine running at 3 phase and have your booster heater running at single phase or three phase, it is your choice. If you have a unit you’ve already received like this particular one that has already been set for 3 phase and you need to change it to single phase, on the backside of the cover to the e-temp booster heater, you will find a wiring schematic to convert this unit to be a single phase unit. This particular booster heater is set up as a 70 degree rise unit, it is only available in 3 phase.
Learn all about how to install and maintain your CMA EST-44 or EST-66 conveyor dishwasher by watching this thorough, step-by-step tutorial!
Now we’re almost finished with the installation. We have the water and the power connected, the final rinse temperature, and the wash and power rinse temperature thermostats set, the last thing we need to adjust is the vent hood adapter baffles. The adapter baffles need to be adjusted so it only draws in the steam that comes underneath the curtains while the machine is in operation. The EST-44 and 66” conveyors require 600 CFM total, 400 at the exit, and 200 at the entrance. Now to adjust the baffles. You’re going to require two 7/16” wrenches to do this procedure. You are going to close the baffles while steam is coming up, and you’re going to open them just enough to draw in the steam into the vent hood adapter. The vent hood adapter installed properly will overhang the exit of the machine or the entrance to draw in the steam. Once you’ve opened up the baffle, steam has been drawn in, then you use the rear wrench to tighten the baffle so you lock it into place. Once you’re done with the final rinse, you’ll move to the entrance of the dishwasher and repeat the process. We’ve completed setting the rinse vent hood adapter baffle and we’re going to repeat the process on the entrance side. Again, using a 7/16” wrench, on both the front and rear of the baffle, we’re going to open up the baffle just enough to draw the steam into the vent system. Once you have the steam being evacuated from the outside of the curtain, you’re going to use on this one, the front wrench to tighten down the baffle so it doesn’t move. Now that you have both baffles adjusted properly, only the steam will be captured that leaves the machine, which will retain the heat inside the dishwasher at all times. Now we have the installation almost completed. The water and power are connected; the temperatures are set, both for the wash, power rinse, and e-temp booster heater. The last adjustments that need to be made on the dish tables. Make sure when the tables are installed that they are always slightly angled back to the dishwasher to recover as much water on the table as possible. To do the final inspection to make sure your installation is complete, run your dish machine. Check your pressure, check your temperatures, make any final adjustments necessary. The wash tank thermostat should be set so the gauge reads between 155-160 degrees. The power rinse tank should be set so the gauge reads between 160-165 degrees. The final rinse in a high temp application should read between 180-195 degrees. In a low temp application, it should have the final rinse temperature between 145-150 degrees. Now we’re going to install the table limit switch on the clean side table. To remove the template located on the table limit switch, remove all the hardware and remove the template from the switch. This template is only used to align and drill the holes for the table limit switch in the clean side table. Place the template on the center of the clean side table, and mark your holes where they need to be located. Remove the template and drill the holes. Once the holes have been drilled, you’re going to take your table limit switch and remove the activator bar. For demonstration purposes, on this unit, I’ve already taken the bar off. Place the unit through the two holes that you pre-drilled using your template, re-install the activator bar onto the table limit switch, the table limit switch is now fully installed and it will interrupt the operation of the dishwasher when the wraps are on the clean table, stopping it from backing up into the dish machine. In the event you have a dish table that has a turn at the end, there is a whisker type table limit switch available upon request. This concludes the installation of the CMA EST-44 and CMA EST-66 inch conveyors. The similarities between these two machines are very, very, close, the connections between these two machines are almost identical, except you have one more prewashed motor in an EST-66 than you do in the EST-44. Both machine’s motors have thermal overloads in case they overheat, they will shut down and re-begin when they turn off. Congratulations, now your new EST-44 conveyor has been installed, and all procedures have been followed. As a final inspection, follow the check list that has been provided in the installation manual and should be checked off prior to activating the machine for operation. Check all electrical connections to insure they are tight and secure. Check all water, drain, and plumbing connections for leaks, tighten if necessary. Check final rinse arms; rinse jets spray should be straight up and down. Check wash pump rotation; make sure it is turning clockwise. Check the dishrack movement, conveyor arm, and bar, and conveyor dogs alignment. Check tray track guide-rail alignment through dishwasher, and alignment with tables. Check conveyor timer dipswitch settings, only switch number 6 should be in the on position for 32 seconds. Check wash tank temperature 150 degrees Fahrenheit minimum. Check power rinse tank temperature 160 degrees Fahrenheit minimum. Check final rinse temperatures, 180-195 degrees Fahrenheit for high temperature applications, and 140 degrees in low temperature applications. Check final rinse pressure 20 psi plus or minus 5 psi. Check table limit switch operation. If not installed, warranty will be voided. Check vent hood adapter baffles position to draw steam (optional). Keep baffles open to a minimum. Check and make sure the dishwasher is level. Check to make sure all curtains are in place. Read all labels, follow procedures. Review installation section before beginning the installation of the model EST-44 conveyor dishwasher. All installation procedures and guidelines should be followed during installation.
Finalize your CMT EST-44 or 66 conveyor dishwasher’s installation by following along with this informative, step-by-step tutorial!