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  • Cleans and sanitizes approximately 2,000 glasses per hour
  • Simple pass-through operation
  • Stainless steel wash and rinse chamber
  • Upper and lower wash and rinse spray system
  • 3 built-in chemical dispensing pumps
  • 10 1/4" vertical glass clearance
  • 208/230V
Champion Glass Washer Installation and Operation

Champion Glass Washer Installation and Operation

We want to talk about the installation of the rotary glass washer. The units are gravity drained and should be 1/2" copper, hard piped to and from, with check valves on the hot and cold water lines as close to the machine as possible. Optional flexfill and drain kits are available. The drains should be 1 1/2" PVC gravity drained. The main power supply for the rotary glass washer, it's a 208-230 60 Hertz single phase connection. It comes equipped with an approximately 6' plug. You simply plug it into an outlet. It has the 2-20 volt style receptacle; NEMA 6-15 amp receptacle is the proper breaker size for this unit. The rotary glass washer comes with the 1 1/2" slit drain connection which is located under the wash tank. The corrugated hose also comes with the machine so simply slip the hose over the drain connection and tighten it with a hose clamp. This rotary unit has a hot and cold water connection. They both are 3/4" garden hose connections provided with a 6' hose. Note the mixing valve, that's to mix the hot water with the cold water so you can establish 75 degrees in your final rinse. The rotary glass washer does not need a pressure reducing valve, the recommended pressure is between 25 and 95 psi to the machine. Both the hot and cold water valves have a restrictor, a flow washer into the valve, so there's no need for a pressure reducing valve unless the water exceeds 95 psi. The rotary glass washer is equipped with 3 pick up tubes which are placed into the chemical container. They are clearly marked detergent, rinse aid, and sanitizer. Detergent is red, rinse aid is blue, and sanitizer is clear. Again, these pick up tubes should be placed into the chemical containers sitting next to the machine, on the floor is preferred, or within the cavity of the machine. Once the pick up tubes are placed into the chemical container, you will want to prime each pump. You will have a detergent prime button and a sanitizer and a rinse aid button. We are going to talk about the cleaning procedure, the power should be cut off before cleaning. First you want to remove the conveyor shut off divider. Remove the conveyor guides or guards, they simply lift off. Remove the curtain, it's held in with curtain hooks on the inside. Remove the center conveyor guard, lift up and out. Remove the conveyor, this conveyor is gear driven so the gear has tension on it, simply pull back, away from the conveyor, pick up, and lift down. Once you have the conveyor out now you can also remove the screen which comes out down below. Remove the scratch screen. Now you want to remove the lower and upper spray arms. Simply take the arms and push towards the rear of the machine, it comes out. Now we will remove the upper rinse arm and upper wash arm. For cleaning the rotary glass washer, when removing the wash and rinse arms we have these tools that are provided with the rotary glass washer. You have a drill bit that actually cleans the spray tube. You also have a brush, it can also clean the spray tube. You also have a little drill bit, a jet reamer they call it, you can clean each nozzle, this simply cleans each jet out if they get clogged. It cleans any lime deposit any debris, whatever may be in the jet. The jet reamer should be used both before and after you have brushed and augured it. Now you have everything out of the machine, this is the wash drain back, this is the wash area. All that lands in this compartment here lands back into the wash tank. Water that lands in this area is your rinse water, which flows down to the front and into the overflow which goes out to the drain. Make sure you clean the bottom really well. To drain the machine at the end of the day, put the power switch to the off position. Remove the scrap screen, take it to the sink, back flush it. Remove the overflow tube inside the wash tank, make sure it's clean around the seat, clean it very well. Clean the inside of the wash tank. Once you've cleaned the inside of the tank, the overflow tube, and the scrap screen, place everything back in the machine. You are done cleaning the wash tank. Once the bottom is cleaned out we want to reinstall the wash arm. Align the center spray tube in the bracket pull toward the center of the unit. Then the rinse arm centers spray arm in the hole and pull it toward the center. To install the scrap screen place in the open slot and slide inward. Now we want to reinstall the conveyor. Center it, pull back on the gear tension, make sure to secure it down, let go and make sure everything is locked in place. Next, replace the center conveyor guard. Lift it over the conveyor, push down. Then the right and left conveyor guards. The left guard is higher than the right guard, which is normal. Now install the curtain, which is held in by curtain hooks in each corner. Last, install the conveyor divider, it simply slips down. Make sure it's working. When reinstalling the wash and rinse arm, if you'll notice the bracket in the rear, make sure the center spray pipe is stuck in the hole of the bracket, line the manifold up, O-ring, center part, and pull toward the center of the machine. Now to install the upper rinse pipe, line the center pipe in the hole of the bracket, align it with the O-ring manifold, and pull toward the center of the unit. In the morning, when you are starting the machine for operation, place a glass against the divider, go down to the power switch, cutting the machine on for the first time. Flip the power switch to the ON position. Automatically fills the detergent pump automatically comes on it will fill until the float switch is satisfied. The water will shut off and the heat will come on. At that point, you will wait for the wash temperature to come up to 150 degrees. The wash temperature on the rotatory glass washer as indicated here is between 130 and 160 degrees. You'll notice our machine is about 155 degrees now you are ready to begin washing glasses. Once the machine is heated up to the proper temperature and you've primed all your chemical hoses, you are ready to start washing glasses. Remember, we left a glass on the divider as we were filling the unit. Now we are ready to use the unit. We cut the power switch down below to the on position, move the glass on the load side of the divider, or glasses. It takes approximately 1.5 minutes for a complete revolution. The glasses are now entering the wash section of the glass washer. The glasses have gone through the wash and rinse cycle and are now exiting the curtain. When the glasses come in contact with the divider plate it will shut the conveyor off and the whole glass washer. The glasses are now completely clean and sanitized and can be removed. When removing glasses form the divider, the unit will start automatically and ready for more soiled glasses. When placing glasses in the glass washer make sure to pre-scrap or dump the lemon peels or straws or paper or whatever may be in the glass, simply dump it into the dump tray. Place it into the machine. At the end of the day, or shift, you are done washing glasses, or even during the wash period, you can remove the dump trash and take it to a trash can and empty it out. Wash it and place it back into the machine. Once you've emptied the dump tray and cleaned it, reinstall it and you are ready for use again. Champion: Pass Through Conveyor Glasswashers At the end of the day we want to get ready to clean the unit. First remove the dump tray, this is an option we highly recommend, remove the pickup shelf. Remove the curtains on both end. Remove the exit and pick-up tray. Then remove the front cover, it lifts up and off. It catches behind the wash spray hose manifold with clips. Now we have removed the curtains off the spray hood, we want to remove the spray hood so we can clean the upper spray pipes. Simply take and slide in slightly on the front pull up, pull forward a tad, turn it up on its side, now you have full access to the upper spray tubes and the inside of the spray hood for cleaning. To clean the spray tubes, to clean the jets. We have a jet reamer, it completely fits inside the holes and cleans the holes. You can see some of these are clogged. We are going to clean them with the jet reamer. These should be cleaned once a day or as necessary. Also, the glass washers come provided with a scraper for your spray tube and the brush. The scraper you completely remove the caps, this leads down to the upper spray tube, ensure that all the O-rings are on the caps when you take them off. Take this end of the scraper, shove it down through the pipe all the way to the very end, scrape it if necessary. Now this removes any lime build up inside the arm, and of course remove. This should be done on each spray tube, the upper and lower spray tubes. Also provided is the brush, stick it into the tube and also clean the spray tubes with these brushes. When you get all 4 of the upper spray tubes cleaned replace the cap, ensuring the O-ring is on the cap, it simple screws on, make sure all are tight. Now we want to clean the bottom pan of the glass washer, go on the right side of the glass washer. You'll notice these brackets for the conveyor. Lift up on the brackets, the one end of the conveyor will lift up, pull up for cleaning. Now you have access to the pan. This is an overflow that can be removed, clean the overflow. Clean the bottom of the drain pan. Before replacing the overflow, go to the left end of the machine and spray all your debris toward the right hand side of the glass washer that way you have full access to cleaning all the debris out and cleaning the overflow tube. Replace the overflow tube once you have the bottom cleaned and the overflow cleaned. With the conveyor belt raised up from the right side of the glass washer, this will give you access to cleaning the pan, which is your wash area. And also have access to cleaning your spray tubes with the jet reamer as you can see. Be sure all your nozzles are completely clear and clean. Once the bottom of the glass washer is clean you are ready to lower your conveyor belt, Make sure it is secured and locked in place. We've already cleaned the upper spray tubes, the spray hood is off the machine, we now want ot clean the lower spray tubes. Simply remove the cap, use the scrapper, which is fairly sharp, run the scraper all thee way through the very end of all lower spray tubes. Take the brush, ensure that the O-ring is on the cap, reinstall the caps. The lower spray arms are clean. Note: we have already cleaned the jets with the jet reamer. Once we have the spray tubes clean we are ready to reinstall the spray hood. Simply turn it up, make sure the cup link that join to the hood are in the front. Partially line up the front tubes, stick the rear of the hood inside the bottom portion of the hood. Line up the hoses, and push in on the front. Now it's installed. Ensure that these hoses are resting on the tubes, this is very important otherwise it will leak. These are seated perfectly. When connecting the machine on initial startup you have a hot and cold water hose that is provided with the machine. It is a 3/4" garden hose connection. You have hot water and cold water valves, each valves has a flow restrictor so there is no need for a pressure reducing valve. Water pressure to the unit should be between 65 and 95 psi. The flow restrictor will restrict the flow accordingly. Cold water should be 75 degrees on the machine during rinse. That's to prevent glasses from cracking. In most cases the cold water is colder than 75 degrees, therefore you have to mix hot water with the cold water with the mixing valve, which is located between the hot and cold valve. Simply turn it to regulate the temperature on your final rinse gauge. This is you rinse pressure gauge. The flow restrictor in the valves will control the rinse pressure. The rinse pressure should maintain between 3 and 5 psi. You never want to exceed 5 pis, if it does the pressure has a tendency to back-feed into your detergent or rinse aid lines, causing problem with your rinse aid pump. So never exceed 5 psi on your rinse pressure. Added pressure can also be caused by clogged jets and kinked hoses. You should also check the flow restrictor as it may need to be replaced. We are getting read for the daily operation. before we operate the glass washer we need to ensure the overflow tube is in place. Reinstall the scrap screen. Turn the toggle switch to the on position, the tank will automatically fill, the heat will automatically come on, once it gets full you will wait for the temperature to reach 150 degrees. The temperature ranges between 130 and 160 degrees. Now the machine is heated up, ready for use, we will open the door, flip the switch to the on position. Remove the glass from the conveyor start switch, the wash pump will come on, the conveyor will come on and ready for glasses to be loaded. Once the machine has started running we can now scrap out glasses using the dump tray. It is very important. Place the glasses on the conveyor, the glasses will convey to the wash and rinse cycle. Once the glasses have gone through the wash and rinse cycle they will exit the machine. If no one is at the machine to tend it the glasses will hit the shut off arm and shut the unit off. Once the machine is completed its cycle and you are ready to drain the tank down cut the power switch to the off position, remove the scrap screen, the overflow tube from the wash tank, and once the wash tank is fully drained now you are ready to flush the bottom of the tank out by using the toggle switch. Push down to flush mode and hold it. This will flush the bottom of the tank out and any debris that is left in there. Now remove any debris in the tank and reinstall the overflow tube and the scrap screen. On the SW400 and 600, and the CG4 and 6, these are the chemical pick up tubes They are clearly marked blue for rinse aid, white for sanitation, and red for detergent. The pickup tubes are to be placed in the chemical containers and then you are ready for priming. Once the pickup tubes are placed into the chemical containers your are ready to prime the chemical pumps. On the front of the unit you will see 3 buttons. One is your detergent, its on top, you will see it's priming the detergent pump. Second is your sanitizer and the third is your rinse aid. Hold these buttons down until the chemical tubes are completely full, then you will know the tubes have been primed and are ready for use. At the end of the day, after you have finished washing all your glasses, flip the switch to the off position. You want to drain the tank by pulling the scrap screen out, pulling the overflow out, draining the wash tank. Now the wash tank is completely drained, we want to flush the bottom of the wash tank out. Flip the switch to the flush position and hold, this will flush the bottom of the wash tank out. To adjust the amount of chemicals that go into the glass washer we provide an adjustable screw for each pump. Now the small slot of the adjustment screw. Clockwise increases the amount of chemical while counterclockwise decreases it.

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Check out how to install and clean your Champion glass washer! This step-by-step video will help you understand and care for your machine so it will last through many years of use.

Champion CG4 RL 208/2301 Specs
Width 48 Inches
Depth 22 Inches
Height 38 1/2 Inches
Amps 15 Amps
Hertz 60 Hertz
Phase 1 Phase
Voltage 208/230
Chemical Pumps Included Yes
Glasses Per Hour 2,000
High or Low Temp Low Temp
NSF Listed Yes
Type Glass Washers
Water Inlet Size 1/2 Inches
Water Temperature 145 - 160 Degrees F

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Champion CG4 RL 208/2301 Details

Any busy bar or restaurant needs plenty of clean glasses to keep customers happy, so make sure your business can meet demand with this Champion CG4 pass-through glass washer! This unit is a workhorse in any dishroom with its 2,000 glass per hour capacity and a 48" long footprint that gives ample space for loading dirty glasses and collecting finished ones. The wash / rinse chamber has a vertical clearance of 10 1/4" to accommodate most glasses and stemware, and it is made from stainless steel for superior durability. A precise 3-pump injection system allows the use of separate detergent, sanitizer, and rinse-aid solutions. The wash cycle utilizes both upper and lower wash / rinse arms and is done in 140 degree Fahrenheit recirculated water to improve efficiency, while a cool water final rinse with sanitizer gets the glasses ready to be used again.

This glass washer also features built-in controls, a durable polypropylene conveyor that prevents chipping, and two splash curtains to contain the spray during operation. It comes configured for right to left operation. It requires a 208/230V electrical connection and comes with a cord and plug. (2) 1/2" water connections are required, 1 for the hot water and 1 for cold water. It also uses a 1 1/2" drain connection.

Overall Dimensions:
Width: 48"
Depth: 22"
Height: 38 1/2"

Attention CA Residents: Prop 65 Warning

  • NSF Listed

    NSF Listed

    This item meets the standards imposed by NSF International, which focuses on public safety, health, and the environment.

  • CSA

    CSA

    This item meets the standards imposed by the Canadian Standards Association (CSA).

  • UL Listed

    UL Listed

    This item has been tested and meets safety standards imposed by the Underwriters Laboratories (UL).

  • 6-15P

    6-15P

    This unit comes with a NEMA 6-15P plug.

  • 1/2

    1/2" Water Connection

    This unit comes with a 1/2" water connection.

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Champion CG4 RL 208/2301

Specsheet Specsheet Manual Manual Warranty Warranty

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Warranty Info

RESIDENTIAL USERS: Vendor assumes no liability for parts or labor coverage for component failure or other damages resulting from installation in non-commercial or residential applications. The right is reserved to deny shipment for residential usage; if this occurs, you will be notified as soon as possible

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