What I like to do is to first use the blue babel, Kills II. This has a residual effect, which all means it’s going to last. This stuff can last up to sixteen weeks, so it’s going to give you some good coverage. I like to start on the outer fridges of the room first. The reason for this is if the bed bugs are on the bed or on the headboard and they start spreading when you go and start breaking down your bed, you want to have protection in these outer areas. So with the residual if they go and run behind your furniture, mirrors, things like that, there’s already chemical there to take care of them. Then after we treat the outer rooms, we’re going to go in towards the bed, which is most likely the heavily infested area. With the residual spray, I like to go and do like we did in the inspection. You’re going to go in and use the spray and hit all those cracks and be as thorough as possible. Take your time. This is something where you can’t rush. You can go into a spray around things like TVs, your desks, your chairs, baseboards, anywhere where there’s cracks and crevices you want to use this residual. After the initial treatment of your house for the bed bugs, I do recommend coming back in and re-treating, especially the infested areas within maybe a week after your initial spray. What I like to use for this situation now is the blue label, which remember has the sixteen week residual, and going back and spraying the same areas as we did in the initial treatment. Again you’re hitting the creases, the labels, your sewn-in seams; you can go and spray those. You don’t need to go in and broadcast soap down the whole bed. I don’t recommend doing that. This is insecticide, although once it dries it’s not going to hurt you; and it’s perfectly okay to spray your mattress, but it’s not designed to soap the whole bed. So you want to go in and get the seams and areas that you see that have infestations. After you did your initial knock-down spray with the red label, we’re coming back, approximately a week later, we want to hit all those exact same areas again. You want to look to see if there’s any new infestation. You really shouldn’t be seeing any live insects, but there’s always that chance you did miss something with the first one, so that’s why we’re coming back. Again we’re going to be hitting all the previous areas, and don’t forget the underneaths and your frames. It’s best to have a couple people with you so you can move things around and get into it. Again, like I said, don’t rush; don’t forget to do any spots. If you forget some place, you’re most likely to have re-infestation.
Got bed bugs? Check out this video from JT Eaton and learn how their blue label Kills II spray can help kill an infested room. Learn where and when to spray for optimal effectiveness.
Bed bug infestations are becoming increasingly common in homes. This year's National Pest Management Association's Bugs Without Border survey found that 99.6% of pest professionals have treated bed bugs in the past year. This is up compared to 5, 10, and 15 years ago. If you fall prey to bed bugs, it's important that you identify and locate bed bugs and then use the right tools to eliminate them. Professional pest control operators use integrated pest management, IPM, techniques to eliminate bed bug infestations. IPM is an effective combination of pest control practices where professionals take advantage of multiple treatment options and use a series of treatment solutions. Now you can practice IPM with JT Eaton Kills Bed Bugs complete line of bed bug control products. Step 1, inspect. To eliminate a bed bug infestation, you need to know what bed bugs look like and where they are hiding. Do a close inspection of your room and closet. Look carefully at the sheets, mattress, box spring, and bed frame for signs of bed bugs, like tiny, brown spots, small, dried blood stains, transparent or white egg clusters, and light brown bed bug skin castings. Be sure to also inspect the carpet edges, baseboards, dressers, nightstands, drawers, outlets, and nearby furniture. Step 2, high heat. Remove all your bed linens, pillows, clothing, curtains, and drapes. Be sure to wash and dry on high heat or dry clean those items. Use a high heat setting for at least 20 minutes and the heat will kill off any bed bugs or eggs. Step 3, declutter. Make sure the rest of the room is free of clutter. To do a complete and thorough job, you will have to treat everything in the room where bed bugs can hide: bed frames and headboards, dressers and nightstands, drawers, and even wall hangings. Step 4, vacuum. Vacuum everywhere you can in the room, hitting mattress edges and box springs, crevices, molding joints and corners. After you vacuum, make sure to empty your vacuum cleaner into a plastic garbage bag and seal it up before throwing it away so bed bugs don't get loose and come crawling back. Step 5, knock down. Treat all the joints and crevices where bed bugs may be hiding with Kills Bed Bugs, red label or Kills Bed Bugs Plus, black label. The red label is a powerful, oil-based treatment that quickly kills bed bugs. This product is a contact killer and has no residuals. The black label is a powerful, water-based aerosol spray that quickly kills bed bugs with 12-week residual protection. Use these in areas where bed bugs are seen or likely to be hiding. Begin with the bed and the bedroom furniture. Completely disassemble the bed and all the dressers, nightstands, etc. Treat the entire area around your bed and all the places you have vacuumed including mattress seams, creases, folds, toughs, and foam inside the box spring. To avoid electrical shock, never spray the liquids into or around electrical outlets. Step 6, powder. Before reassembling the bed frame and dressers, dust the joints and crevices with Kills Bed Bugs and crawling insects powder, green label, which provides a long-term, residual killing to prevent reinfestations. Reassemble all the furniture after the treatment. Use the green label powder in outlets or in areas where the danger of electrical shock may occur. Step 7, lock-up. Before replacing the box spring and mattress, treat and seal these items and your pillows with lock-up encasement covers to keep out future infestations of bed bugs and to lock up any missed bed bugs or their eggs. Leave the encasements on for up to a year because bed bugs can live for months without eating. Step 8, follow up. As soon as the bed bug activity subsides, professional pest control operators follow up with additional IPM treatments. Kills Bed Bugs II, blue label, or Kills Bed Bugs Plus, black label, offer long-term control and help prevent reinfestations. All of the JT Eaton products can be applied to crevices, cracks in the floor, baseboard or wall joints, and openings for heating pipes to keep bed bugs from coming back into the room. Even with professional applicators, more than one treatment is usually required to completely eradicate bed bugs. Therefore, monitor the infested areas daily and maintain an ongoing IPM control program. Reapply blue label, black label, or green label products if there are indications that additional bed bugs are present. These products do not kill instantly, but offer longer-term control for bed bugs and will eliminate your infestation problem. Since 1932, JT Eaton has been serving consumers and industry professionals as the leader in innovative and quality pest control products. Check out our website at www.jteaton.com for a full line of pest control solutions. Always read pesticide labels before using and only use in accordance with the label directions.
Ensure your hotel rooms and living areas are free and safe from bed bugs by following JT Eaton's bed bug control plan and using their pest control products!