We're going to start assembling this PJN3 unit. We have our tools all laid out and ready to go. We have our impacts here. We have a 7/16" kind of deep socket, then we have a deep socket 7/16", a hammer, vice grips, a drill with a 13/64" drill bit, a Phillips screwdriver, slotted screwdriver and a pneumatic rivet gun. A regular rivet gun could be used if you didn't have air power; same thing with impact wrenches if you just had a ratchet and a wrench you could do it that way as well. We also have all of our parts, small parts laid out as well. We have a side latch, door pull, spring retainer, door handle, a spring, and then other various parts; door kit cable, mirror, we'll go through those parts as we assemble. Everything is ready to go and laid out, let's start assembling. When you order your PJN3 unit, if you get it sent assembled you will get all these small parts shipped to you in a parts bag. So you will have all these parts available for you. We're going to get started with our assembly. We have our front assembly here and we have our base leaning up against this table. If you didn't have a table like this in your shop or anything of this height that you could support your front assembly on when you lay it down you could use a tank standing on end to support your front assembly. Expose the two holes on the side of the jamb, line up the holes of the jamb with the slots in the base and you have measure the opening. A good idea would be to put the bolts in all four holes and get your nuts and your washers to hold that down but not tight. Get your door centered and your opening, and then tighten everything down. We're taking the PC-000122 bolts with a PC-000123 washer and a PC-000140 lock-nut and we're going to put the washer on the back side of that bolt and then run our nut up. These have a nylon insert in them to prevent them from loosening up and backing off. We're going to now tighten everything down. What we'll do is we've got our 7/16" impact with our socket with our impact wrench, and a Phillips screwdriver. We'll tighten up this side first and then we'll check our gap between our door and the jamb, making sure that's consistent all the way down and then we'll tighten up this bolt. After we get done with those we'll tighten up the top ones. Making sure the gap is consistent we'll open up the door. Using that same 7/16" impact we can now install the lag screws in the front. When tightening these up it's important not to over tighten them. Just go until they get snug, otherwise you'll strip out the plastic. Now we're going to stand the unit up on the base. We can start assembling the door part. We're going to assemble our door handle and our slide latch now. That's done by hooking the front edge, the leading edge, of the door pull into the slot and popping it in. Then insert your slide latch. To guide it on the back side you take a screwdriver, push it back so that the leading edge of the slide latch will go and ride up on the front edge of that screwdriver and it pops into place. Now we insert the spring assembly into the hole of the door. Then taking the spring retainer you take the two tabs and insert those into the two holes and hinge it down into position. That will be held in place with two PC-000105 rivets. After that is installed you slip the spring up into there guiding the cable through the hole. Now we're going to assemble the grab handle on the inside of the door using the top hole of the door pull and a PC-000105 rivet we will fasten that in place in the bottom hole of the other side of the handle. We're going to install the door check cable that'll be held in place with 2 PC-000102 rivets. He's placing backup washers on the heads of the rivets prior to installing the rivets on the door check cable. Position the bracket as shown and rivet in place. Now we're going to install the mirror. Mark peeled back the covering over the mirror and then he's inserting the plastic snap fasteners into the holes of the mirror and into the door to hold it in place. Now we're going to install the end of the cable of the spring into the cable clip on the backside of the door jamb. What mark is doing is using the claw of the hammer as leverage to pull the cable out. Once he gets the cable pulled out he will then clamp a vice grip on the cable, holding it in position. Close the door and insert the end of the cable into the slot, open the door back up and then release the vice grips. Now we're going to assemble the door check cable to the top of the jamb using a PC-000104 rivet and then a PC-000168 washer and PC-000106 washer on the backside. The rivet goes through the jamb, put the looped end of the cable on the rivet, put the large 168 washer and 106 washer and fasten it in place. We're going to start assembling the toilet seat. All the parts come with it as you see. We're going to leave the plastic on the lid for safety reasons to prevent it from getting scratched up. Tear your plastic away, put your lid with your seat, insert the post and then insert a snap into the hole and snap into place when it's flush with the outside. Attach the seat to the tank; a very straightforward process. Put the studs to the tank and then tighten it up on the other side. Using the same table that we used to assemble the front to the base, we're placing the 3 side panels on that. Again, if you didn't have a table like this to assemble your 3 sides together, you could use 2 tanks on end in the center to support that one side panel. We're going to rivet the side panels together with the corner extrusion using PC-000100 rivets with PC-000106 backup washers. When riveting the sides together it's important to rivet from the front side of the unit which is facing down now with the backup washers towards the rear. Locate your center hole, insert your corner extrusion onto the side, lining up the holes, slip the edge of the side into the corner extrusion lining up the holes again and rivet in place. Repeat the process for the other side, lining up the center hole with the corner extrusion and then slipping the edge of the corner extrusion over the side panel. Stand the 3 sides up and then wrap those 3 sides around the base of the unit. Then we'll repeat the process that we just did with the 2 rear corners with the front corners using the same rivets and washers. Now we're going to fasten the sides to the base with the PC-000192 lag screws, but before we do so we have to shim up the back corners with a couple 1/4" shims. Making sure the side panel is centered on the base, drive a lag screw through the center, again making sure not to over tighten and strip out the screws in the plastic. Then working from the back to the front finish driving in your lags. Repeat this for the other side. Now using a drill with a 13/64" drill bit, drill through the dimples that are marked in the roof while pulling the roof down into position and into your front assembly. Working your way around the unit, making sure to pull the roof down, drill all your holes. This is our plastic variety, it's a PJP3 front of panel that goes on our standard PJN3 unit. The semi-process that you just watched is the same except when you fasten the roof to the front panel you would drill only through the outside layer of plastic on the front panel and you would install the roof to the front using 105 rivets and 106 backup washers behind the head of the rivet before it's installed. Pull the tank completely tight against the floor plate on the front and then while holding the tank in position, drill the side holes and rivet the tank into place. Mark was drilling the holes and rounding out the holes a little bit to give a little extra clearance for the rivets. The screens can be slipped into position at this time making sure the wider end of the screen is facing the center of the side panel, and that the ribs on the inside of the screen are facing the inside of the unit. Making sure the screens are completely centered on the side, drill through the center hole of the two screens; insert rivet there temporarily, and then drill the other two holes. Locate your TP dispenser where you'd like to have it placed in your unit. That is simply a matter of preference for you. Using a black marker after it's level and in position, mark the 4 holes on the underside of the dispenser onto the side panel. Drill the 4 holes out using a 13/64" drill bit. We're going to rivet the tank into position using PC-000103 rivets with 106 backup washers on the inside of the tank. Now rivet your roof into position using the PC-000100 rivets with backup washers on the inside of the unit. Rivet your screens into position using those same rivets and washers. You can see Tom and Mark have developed a nice system of knowing when to rivet by Tom knocking on the side panel letting Mark know when to rivet. Now you can install your TP dispenser at this time using those same rivets. We're going to slip our vent stack up into the roof and then down into the recess of the tank. Then using a drill with a 13/64" drill bit, drill through the recess of the tank and into the vent stack. Now Tom is riveting into place using a PC-000117 rivet. The urinal came shipped inside of your tank. Simply place the spout of the urinal into the hole that is already drilled on the top of the tank, level the urinal out on the side panel and then using a 13/64" drill bit, drill through the urinal and into your side panel. Rivet from the inside out of the urinal with backup washers placed on the outside of the unit by the rivets that were used to hold the urinal in place. We're going to wrap up the assembly of this unit by installing a TP rod and lock, then assembly is complete. That wraps up our assembly of the PJN3 unit. Thanks for watching. Thanks for Tom and Mark for helping us out put this together, and thanks for buying our products. Have a great day.
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A comprehensive step-by-step guide on how to assemble your PolyJohn PJN3 portable restroom. Note: this unit ships assembled.
Get a unit you can rely on with the PJN3 portable restroom from PolyJohn! See all the standard features that come with this unit to make your experience the best possible.
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