Welcome to CMA dish machines at the CMA school of training. I’m Gideon Cats, the national service manager for CMA dish machines, and today we’re going to be discussing the EST-44 and the EST-66 conveyors and how they are properly installed and set up. The EST-44 and 66 conveyors both use .49 gallons of water per wash rack and they’ll produce 243 racks per hour of continuous use. The unit requires 140 degree water supplied to the dish machine and also the booster heater. When installing this machine you should make sure that your water and your electrical is set at the proper height by your electricians, and please follow all electrical codes for your state municipality. The e-temp booster heater is available in 40 degree rise which must be specified when you are ordering, it is available in single or three phase, and the whole unit is fully available in 480 volts. This unit also has vent hood adapters mounted on it, so you can bring your vents down to the machine and pant legs, not requiring the big hood over the machine. Both the e-temp booster heater as well as the EST-44 conveyor will both have their data plates mounted on the side of the control box for the conveyor, right on the very front of the control box for the e-temp booster heater. They’ll both display the proper voltages and the amperage draw of each unit so the proper circuit breaker and wire size can be provided by your electrician. Please remember to always follow the state and local electrical codes when wiring your machines. Now to begin the installation. Now we’ve placed the dishwasher, made sure it’s properly leveled, and we’re going to start with the water connections. Making the final rinse connections, a dual point water connection for this unit will have again the same water valve located at the front of the rinse before the pressure regulator, you will have your water inlet valve, a vacuum breaker, and your pressure gauge. This particular unit has an e-temp booster heater fully integrated to the machine, so it has a double street elbow, which will first bring the water from the valve directly to the booster heater and then returning to the machine. The return line from the booster heater, you have the pressure gauge, the vacuum breaker, the temperature gauge which is measured right in the final rinse line, just before the chemical injection point. For the rinse aid, and in low temp applications, the sanitizer. Inside the control box is the main contactor, the wash tank contactor, the prewash contactor, the power rinse pump, the wash pump, as well as the conveyor motor drive contactor. And in this particular unit, when the e-temp booster heater is installed on the dish machine, you’ll also find the main contractor for the e-temp booster heater, which requires a separate power supply. On the right hand side of the control box, you’ll find where the table limit switch is installed, the detergent and rinse signals are located, and also the terminal for powering your chemical dispenser. Inside the control box is also the conveyor motor timer, which come set from the factory, so there is really no need to adjust it, and the unit is fully ready to accept power from your power supply. The first thing you wanna do is locate the knock out and its location in the bottom left hand corner for your main power wires for the EST-44. You wanna bring your first lines to your main contactor, if you have a single phase machine; please remember that you are going to use L1 and L3. When you have a 3 phase machine, you’ll also connect L2. Before connecting a 3 phase machine, you always want to remember to check the voltage on each line, make sure they are all equal, and if one leg is higher than the other, which is commonly known as a high leg or wild leg, that always should be connected to the L2 terminal. The L2 terminal does not affect the operation of any of the machine; it goes straight and directly to each one of the 2 heaters inside the dishwasher. Now when you are connecting the e-temp booster heater to the main contactor inside the control box, you’re going to locate the knock-out for your power cable and conduit, which will be right in the upper right hand corner of the control box. Bring in your lines and again, for a single phase machine you want to use the L1 and L3 terminals, and for a 3 phase machine, you would use the L2 terminal. And just because you want to stay consistent, please always remember if you have a high leg, again, please bring it to the L2 terminal here in the middle. And now you have wired completely the EST-44 as well as you would wire the EST-66 conveyor for main power. Now it’s time to install and mount the EST-44 external scrap tank. The scrap tank will come inside the dishwasher in a hardware box. Remove the tank and its mounting bracket. Mount the bracket to the external leg of the machine at the entrance side of the dishwasher using the hardware supplied. Once the mounting bracket is in place, place the tank on top of the bracket and connect the drain line. You’ll now notice I removed the lower kick pan for the machine so you can clearly see the motors. All of the reeve switches, as well as the drain connections and the drain valves. When installing the machine, you wanna locate your foredrain or your drain, and you wanna determine which side you wanna connect to. The unit has the availability to have a left or right drain, it is of your choice, the unit is a gravity drain machine, so you need to set your drains appropriately. The scrap tank is connected via a T, or a Y of your choosing, but please remember when installing T’s you need to make sure that the unit will not back up into the scrap tank before it drains. Now that you have water and power already connected to your dishwasher, the first thing we’re going to check is the proper motor rotation of the wash pump. What you are going to do is remove the cap at the back of the wash pump, and you’ll be able to observe the motor shaft. The proper direction for the motor shaft to turn is clockwise. You’ll also notice on this motor’s base, there’s a directional arrow to remind you. At the top of the machine, you’ll find labeled on the bottom right hand side a switch that is labeled auto and manual. So what you’re going to do is turn the switch to manual, let the motor run for just a moment, and observe the rotation of the motor after you’ve turned it off. If the motor is running the wrong direction, you need to return to the control box and move the L1 terminal to the L3 terminal to change the direction of the motor. The L1 terminal is located here, and the L3 terminal is located here. On a 3 phase machine, this is very important to make sure that you have the proper motor rotation. And always remember, when you are making any changes to turn off the power at the breaker, and make sure all the terminals are tight before you reestablish the power to the dishwasher. Now you’ve completed checking the motor rotation, ensuring that the motor is running the proper direction, which is clockwise, replace the cap on the back of the motor and make sure it is on tight. Now you’ve placed the machine, you have the water and the power connected, the dishwasher is level, your drains are fully installed, the last connections to make at the bottom of the machine is going to be your chemical injection fitting, or bulkhead fitting, at the rear of the dishwasher for your detergent. If the machine has already been placed, set up by your dealer, your chemical supplier will need to understand where the bulkhead fitting is properly located in the machine. Open the door to the wash cabinet, the access panel, and you’ll see the inside of the dishwasher. Located inside of the machine, you’ll find a blue plug located in the back wall of the dishwasher. That is the proper location for the chemical detergent bulkhead fitting. And the detergent conductivity probe location is at the bottom of the machine, located next to the wash tank thermostat. Remember, if the conductivity probe is not going to be used for your chemical dispenser, leave the plug and in place and check for links during operation, tightened if necessary. Now what we’re going to do is we’re going to fill the machine with water, then we’re going to finish connecting the E-temp booster heater so we can set the proper temperature for your final rinse. Lower the front access door, remove the panel from the E-temp booster heater, this is the E-temp booster heater. The booster heater will come with one of the 2 wires for the high limit switch disconnected. We will also have a bright tag located on it letting you know that you should not connect this wire until after the booster heater has filled with water. Turn on the main power switch located on the side of the control panel for the dish machine. The dishwasher will begin to fill with water. The fill function of this machine is completely controlled by a new float system designed specifically for CMA dish machines, and is part of the new technology located inside the EST-44 inch conveyor. Now for wiring the E-temp booster heater. The E-temp booster heater can be wired as a single or three phase unit. It does require a separate power supply, so you can have your machine running at 3 phase and have your booster heater running at single phase or three phase, it is your choice. If you have a unit you’ve already received like this particular one that has already been set for 3 phase and you need to change it to single phase, on the backside of the cover to the e-temp booster heater, you will find a wiring schematic to convert this unit to be a single phase unit. This particular booster heater is set up as a 70 degree rise unit, it is only available in 3 phase.
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Learn all about how to install and maintain your CMA EST-44 or EST-66 conveyor dishwasher by watching this thorough, step-by-step tutorial!
Learn the proper technique for tweaking and adjusting your CMA conveyor dishwasher’s dish drive by watching this simple tutorial! The drive helps guide the rack through the wash tank, so having it properly installed is very important.
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