WEBVTT

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<v 0>The first thing we're going to do is shut the water off to the flushometer.</v>

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So we're going to turn the water off here at the control stop,

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and once the water is off, we hit the handle to remove any pressure.

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Then at this point we're going to unscrew the cover

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and we're going to take the inside parts out.

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We're going to remove the handle

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because we don't need any parts through the valve body.

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And then at that point we loosen the vacuum breaker coupling.

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We're not going to take it off, we're just going to loosen it,

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and then we're going to break free the stop here. So at that point,

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once that's done,

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what we're going to do is we're going to take the vacuum breaker coupling all

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the way down,

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and then we're going to loosen this and slide the valve body out.

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Once you do this,

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water is going to spill out.
So it's a good idea to have some towels handy to

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wrap around the vacuum breaker to catch that excess water.

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And then you just dump the water into the toilet.

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So at that point we have the valve body of which we have to change this tail

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piece out. On the bottom of the valve body on the diaphragm body,

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which is the Royal, the Regal, and the Sloan,

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you'll see there's one lug in here.

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The diameter of this is a one and a half inch diameter.

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What I've done is I've taken a close bar and cut it to two feet long,

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and I just marked it here because the important part is when you're putting the

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pipe into the valve body,

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you don't want to extend beyond the first quarter inch inside the

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base of the valve body.

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So this way it's all solid brass around here.
Never do you want to go through

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the valve body.

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This puts torque or stress onto the bore of the body,

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and we do not want to at all.

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We do not want to risk warping this or bending it or shifting it

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because then the valve body is useless and it will cause all kinds of

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flush problems.

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Another method to attach to the valve body to remove it is we offer flush

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connection fittings. This here is the F22.

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What this is is a flange connection to a one inch pipe fitting.

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We offer 'em in half inch,

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and this is for connecting to a pipe if you needed to. In this case,

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what I've done is I've used the F22 and screwed it into a two foot

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long, one inch pipe and an F22 coupling,

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and then I just rolled an O-ring around the end of it to keep the coupling

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from falling off.

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So this is my breaker bar and this will screw onto the bottom of the valve body.

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And the reason why I prefer this method is because with the

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different type of valve bodies that we have,

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these lugs can get in the way and you'll have to use a smaller pipe.

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And by doing so,

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you can risk warping the bottom end when you're putting your pipe through to

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unscrew it off of the tailpiece removal tool.

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So what we offer is the tailpiece removal tool. This is hardened tool steel,

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and it's seven eighths by seven sixteenths by six inches long.

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And this is what you're going to use to put into the vice and you lock it down.

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So then that way we're going to place the valve body over that

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and then we're going to attach to the bottom of it.

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When it comes to the top mounted flushometers that use the G2,

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the ecos, the solace or the Sloan Optima plus flushometers,

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what we're looking at is a valve body.
We refer to the

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EBV-36-A as is the body. It's the squatty body. There is no handle port.

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So in this case here,

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you're not going to be able to stick anything through long enough to get any

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leverage. So this is why I recommend using the F22,

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the F2, and then a one inch pipe.

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So this way we're connecting to the bottom of the valve body and we just tighten

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this up and we're not going to risk putting any awkward stress on the

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body and warping it. Never ever do we put valve bodies into a vice.

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It will squeeze the brass and bend and warp it.

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So we're going to use the H-530 tailpiece removal tool and we're going

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to go out to the shop and remove a tailpiece and replace the tailpiece.

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So we're here in the shop now we got ourselves a vice where we can properly

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remove the tailpiece.
And the thing to remember is the reason why we take the

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body off of the tail is because this is brass.

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So you can't put the valve body into a vice.

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What's going to wind up happening is you're going to actually deform the body.

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You'll crush it because brass is soft. You don't want to take a pipe wrench,

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you don't want to hold the body into the vice and then take a pipe wrench to the

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tailpiece. What we need to do is properly secure it.

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You try to put a pipe wrench on this tailpiece, it'll warp,

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and what you'll wind up doing is begin rounding out the threads and deforming

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that as well.

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So we have our H-530 tailpiece removal tool locked into the device. Again,

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we don't want it sticking up too far because we don't want it to pass through

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the tail and hit the bore.
Inside the tailpiece is there are lugs

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cast in there or, for the longer tails, machined in there.

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And so this is what the corners are catching on is the lugs inside the tail.

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So we're going to put it on there.

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It's bowing out in the tail so we're not hitting the valve body here.

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So what some do is they take hard wood rod one and a quarter inch diameter and

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they'll pass it into the valve body here.

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You don't want to try to pass all the way through.

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You just want it to catch into the middle of the valve body and then it's long

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enough to get some torque,

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but you don't want to risk this breaking because you may wind up getting hurt or

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worse.

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So we have a F22

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fitting and what this is is it's a one and a half inch flange fitting with a

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pipe thread.
This primary use is for connecting a flushometer

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to a pipe that might be flushing a drain or a rim flushing drain and sorts like

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that.

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And I just took 24 inches of cast iron pipe and I screwed it into

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the bottom of it. I use an F2 coupling,

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which is the coupling that'll connect to the bottom of the valve body.

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And then I just took a couple of O-rings and wrap it over here on the bottom.

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This way I don't lose the coupling,

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so I connect it to the bottom of the valve body

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and this way I got positive clamp to the bottom of the body,

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there's going to be no movement, and this is a very strong part of the valve,

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so I'm not going to risk bending or warping anything.

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So at this point then what I'm going to do is I'm going to unscrew the

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body off of the tail.
And so once it's

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loose I'll disconnect it and what this will wind up doing is

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be loose enough that I can unscrew it the rest of the way off.

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And so here you want to be careful,

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we don't want to drop the valve body because anytime you drop it and put a dent

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on there, you're going to wind up warping the threads, one of the many threads.

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So the tail piece is still a good tail piece.

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So what we're going to reuse is the coupling,

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the H-550 coupling.

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Be very careful though. If this has been used quite a bit in the past

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say because of leaking tail or they replaced the tail one

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time before and this was used,

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you want to make sure that this isn't mulled up at all,

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that you don't see any splintering. If you see a lot of teeth marks on this,

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that means it's seen stress and we would advise you to replace it with a new

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H-550 coupling.
And then you'll take your new tail,

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which this is the next longer tail, they're longer by one inch increments,

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and we go all the way up to quite a few inches longer in case you missed the

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roughen. The reason being is

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once you are screwing everything in and you missed your gap,

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the standard is between the stop, the center of the stop and the center of

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the valve body.

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We're talking about four and three quarters plus or minus a half inch.

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So if we're just shy of making contact, you only need one inch longer.

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And what we're going to do is we're going to measure between the center of the

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stop and the valve body to know how far we're going to go.

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Because if a two and a 16th inch or for ease of language,

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a two inch tail is good for four and a quarter to five and a

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quarter.
So a three inch will be good from five and a quarter and six and a

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quarter.

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And if you go online to our website at sloan.com and you bring up tail pieces,

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you'll see the whole chart that shows you what all the increments are for the

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longer tails because sometimes you might miss by quite a bit or what in some

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cases what some people do to prevent theft is they actually use the valve

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body with the handle on the side at a 90 degree angle and they'll put the stop

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behind the wall so that way the shutoff valve can't be hampered with.

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In that case,

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they've used a longer an eight inch tailpiece to go all the way through,

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but in this case here, say we're shy,

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we're a little bit too wide as long as between the

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inside of the O-ring,

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and when I mean the inside is the edge where this locking ring will tighten up

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to the inside edge there, if we're within one inch,

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that tells us we only need the next longer tail. If we're two inches and we get

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the next longer tail by two inches. So in this case here,

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I got the next longer tail. This is a three and a 16 inch one.

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I've already cleaned the inside here.

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I take my brass brush and I'm going to clean up anything that's loose because we

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don't want to push through anything.

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What'll wind up happening is it can cause a run on.

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And so I'm going to reuse my tailpiece. Make sure you slide it on that.

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The threads of the tailpiece face away from the threads of the

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coupling.

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And we're going to apply pipe sealant to the first couple of

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threads here.

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This way we ensure it gets a good seal and we get some lubrication in there

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while we drive it in. We don't want to use excess. It'll just squeeze out.

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And what you're going to wind up doing is a lot more cleaning up.

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So we're just going to paste it on here, the lead threads,

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the rest will work its way through.

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And essentially what we do is we're going to feed it in by hand.

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And when we do this, I usually back off a little bit.

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This way it leaves a little in front of it just enough there that it'll

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sweep into it.

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And then I'm placing my body and tail over there and going to tighten it up by

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hand to a point.

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This will reduce the amount of turning around there when I got a big old pipe to

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swing around.

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So I'm going to tighten up my homemade tool here.

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Again, F22 and an F2 coupling, a one inch F22.

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And this will give me room with this on here to

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swing it around. And when we tighten this up,

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you're going to tighten it up until you see the threads bury,

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and they'll come in flush on the inside of the valve body once I finish

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and you can feel it, get good and tight.
Okay,

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so we've flushed the threads of the tailpiece

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into the body.

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You see the excess squeezed out all the way around and you see it's

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flush onto the inside. And that's what we're looking for.

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So now that I've installed my new tail piece,

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I can remove my tool from the bottom of the valve body and then we're

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good to go to rebuild it,

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put the diaphragm in her cover, cover on there and my handle assembly.

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We're going to slide it into the stop, line it up and tighten it up,

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and we're good to go. So this segment,

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we showed you how to replace the tailpiece properly without causing any damage

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to the valve body. Again, because it's all brass, we got to be very careful.

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But one thing we do do is offer the valve bodies with longer tail

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pieces preassembled. So if you jump online,

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type in sloan.com, that's S-L-O-A-N.com,

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and you type into the search window tail pieces,

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it'll bring up all the references relating to the tail pieces,

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including you'll see a PDF file that shows you all the valve bodies that we

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offer with the next longer increments of tail pieces,

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whether it's the manual one with the handle port,

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or if you get the top mount battery version there where you won't see the valve

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body with a handle port.
They're all listed there.

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So this way you can purchase 'em ahead of time or have some in stock in case

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this happens. What this will do is save you time out on the job,

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whereas if you have it on the truck, go grab it,

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you put it in there and you got one that's ready set to go. And this way,

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because a lot of times you don't have a vice on hand at a job site to be able to

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change a tail piece, it'll save you all that time. One other thing,

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if you happen to have ground joint tail pieces,

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the lugs are the same dimensions on the inside of the tail.

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The tail pieces are in quarter inch longer increments,

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and you want to be as exact as possible because a ground joint tail is brass to

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brass. There is no adjustability sliding in and out with the stop.

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So there you have it, how to change tail pieces with the valve bodies.

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Thanks for spending time.

