WEBVTT 1 00:00:12.360 --> 00:00:15.150 Hi, I am Dominic with Sloan Technical Services Department. 2 00:00:15.510 --> 00:00:19.800 In this video we are going to cover the general maintenance on a standard manual flushometer 3 00:00:21.030 --> 00:00:25.440 and we're going to go over the components and some of the symptoms as well as 4 00:00:25.800 --> 00:00:26.940 the parts to repair it. 5 00:00:27.810 --> 00:00:32.310 Part of the video is going to go over not only the components but the general 6 00:00:32.310 --> 00:00:34.710 maintenance and how to install the components. 7 00:00:34.830 --> 00:00:38.940 And really all you need is a simple smooth jawed wrench and a screwdriver. 8 00:00:39.870 --> 00:00:41.550 If the valve has been around a while, 9 00:00:41.610 --> 00:00:45.750 it could be a little bit finicky where we might need something a little more 10 00:00:45.780 --> 00:00:49.800 like maybe a pick to pull an O-ring out or some fine Emory cloth. 11 00:00:49.800 --> 00:00:53.730 We're going to go over these things a step at a time. Flushometer 101. 12 00:00:53.940 --> 00:00:58.680 So the main components of the flushometer are we have the control stop, 13 00:00:59.190 --> 00:01:03.840 the valve body assembly, the handle, the vacuum breaker flush connection, 14 00:01:04.170 --> 00:01:09.150 as well as the spud flange assembly. Beneath this is the spud itself 15 00:01:09.300 --> 00:01:10.980 and the spud is part of the toilet, 16 00:01:10.980 --> 00:01:12.930 which we will cover at the end of this segment. 17 00:01:14.130 --> 00:01:15.630 So one of the things to remember, 18 00:01:15.690 --> 00:01:18.480 it's very important is the type of tools we're using. 19 00:01:19.110 --> 00:01:23.070 Typically compression wrenches, especially with teeth, are a no-no 20 00:01:23.340 --> 00:01:27.990 because you'll ruin the chrome finish that we painstakingly take a 21 00:01:27.990 --> 00:01:32.340 very great amount of time and care putting these things together 22 00:01:32.640 --> 00:01:36.720 after they run through the chroming process to make sure that your valve has a 23 00:01:36.720 --> 00:01:38.520 nice smooth chrome polish. 24 00:01:38.880 --> 00:01:42.570 One of the important parts about servicing a flushometer is the right tools, 25 00:01:42.630 --> 00:01:47.490 and we offer the Sloan A50 wrench as well as a standard slotted screwdriver. 26 00:01:47.490 --> 00:01:51.060 Quarter inch is more than sufficient to work on the flushometer, 27 00:01:51.270 --> 00:01:55.680 and the reason being is we're going to go over the components and why we use the 28 00:01:55.680 --> 00:01:57.510 proper tools. Okay, 29 00:01:57.510 --> 00:02:02.250 so here's a few samples of the tools that are used for 30 00:02:02.250 --> 00:02:05.670 working on flushometers. We have the plier-type wrenches. 31 00:02:05.760 --> 00:02:10.500 If you notice channel lock. These are smooth jawed, 32 00:02:10.830 --> 00:02:14.790 and we have what's referred to as a spud wrench or this is a smooth jawed pipe 33 00:02:14.790 --> 00:02:18.870 wrench and we have another variation of the smooth jawed pipe wrench 34 00:02:19.740 --> 00:02:22.800 and then there's the one that we offer that we make. 35 00:02:22.800 --> 00:02:25.980 It was designed to work on flushometers. It is the Sloan A50. 36 00:02:26.310 --> 00:02:28.050 Now these are all fixed facets, 37 00:02:28.290 --> 00:02:32.820 so we've got several facets on here for working on 38 00:02:33.150 --> 00:02:36.480 all the different couplings that are on a flushometer. 39 00:02:38.570 --> 00:02:43.350 So this way and on this end here would be for a urinal which would have a 40 00:02:43.350 --> 00:02:44.220 smaller spud. 41 00:02:44.220 --> 00:02:48.990 And then we have some other facets here for working on taking the handle apart 42 00:02:48.990 --> 00:02:51.390 and sorts. Taking the 43 00:02:53.520 --> 00:02:57.600 bonnet off of a flushometer when that time comes to service it. 44 00:02:58.680 --> 00:03:03.490 And basically it's long enough that it pretty much provides the proper amount of 45 00:03:03.490 --> 00:03:06.220 leverage that you need to service a valve. 46 00:03:07.510 --> 00:03:11.800 One of the other things as far as fixed jaws go that once you adjust 'em that 47 00:03:11.800 --> 00:03:12.640 they maintain 48 00:03:15.700 --> 00:03:18.490 they're opening is that we're not compressing the coupling. 49 00:03:18.490 --> 00:03:23.140 And the key is when you compress couplings, the 50 00:03:23.140 --> 00:03:26.110 control stop coupling, the handle coupling, 51 00:03:26.200 --> 00:03:31.090 the vacuum breaker coupling and the spud coupling, if they squeeze, 52 00:03:31.210 --> 00:03:33.010 you're going to be grinding threads together. 53 00:03:33.490 --> 00:03:36.310 So this is one of the reasons why when you're using plier wrenches, 54 00:03:36.460 --> 00:03:37.960 especially say on the handle, 55 00:03:38.350 --> 00:03:42.520 you'll get what's called like a false tightening or loosening where you're 56 00:03:42.520 --> 00:03:44.290 thinking that you're getting it tight, 57 00:03:44.290 --> 00:03:48.970 but what you wind up doing is you're squeezing the coupling so much that you 58 00:03:48.970 --> 00:03:52.600 actually start grinding the brass threads of the coupling against the brass 59 00:03:52.600 --> 00:03:57.040 threads of the valve body. And same thing applies with the control stop 60 00:03:57.070 --> 00:04:00.280 coupling here where the tail secures to the valve body. 61 00:04:00.670 --> 00:04:03.910 Once you start squeezing this, it's going to give you this false tightening. 62 00:04:03.910 --> 00:04:07.510 Or when you go to loosen it, you're going to be thinking this is overly tight, 63 00:04:07.510 --> 00:04:09.640 I can't get it because we're squeezing on it. 64 00:04:10.090 --> 00:04:14.410 So that's where the benefit of fixed jawed wrenches comes into play 65 00:04:14.740 --> 00:04:19.600 because then we're grabbing it by the corners of the coupling when we go to 66 00:04:19.600 --> 00:04:21.040 tighten it or go to loosen it, 67 00:04:21.040 --> 00:04:25.120 and we're not putting any compressive force on the valve body. 68 00:04:25.450 --> 00:04:28.120 So you see here how this is nice and loose. 69 00:04:28.180 --> 00:04:32.620 If I were to take a typical fire wrench on there and I put a squeeze and loosen 70 00:04:32.620 --> 00:04:35.290 it, it gets real tight and you can't loosen it. 71 00:04:35.590 --> 00:04:39.040 So those are some of the tips that we're going to go over. But during the course 72 00:04:39.040 --> 00:04:42.070 of this whole general maintenance of the flushometer. 73 00:04:42.460 --> 00:04:45.550 Everything that we've learned over the years we're going to pass on to you. 74 00:04:46.810 --> 00:04:48.790 So as far as using the right tools go, 75 00:04:48.850 --> 00:04:53.380 this is a quick example of what we're referring to is squeezing the 76 00:04:53.380 --> 00:04:57.250 brass. So this is a straight thread. This is nice and loose, 77 00:04:57.550 --> 00:05:01.780 and if you're using a fixed jawed wrench to work on this, 78 00:05:01.780 --> 00:05:06.400 it's going to loosen up as easy as it is with your hand. 79 00:05:07.000 --> 00:05:10.660 If I use a pair of pliers to grab a hold of this, 80 00:05:10.930 --> 00:05:14.710 I can actually hold this nice and steady and nothing's going to move. 81 00:05:15.250 --> 00:05:17.680 So this is what we were talking about. When you're squeezing it, 82 00:05:18.010 --> 00:05:19.240 because this is brass, 83 00:05:19.360 --> 00:05:23.110 it's soft that you can actually flex the coupling and what you're going to wind 84 00:05:23.110 --> 00:05:26.920 up doing is grinding the threads of the coupling against the threads of the 85 00:05:26.920 --> 00:05:31.900 body. And same thing with the control stop coupling here to connect the 86 00:05:31.900 --> 00:05:34.570 valve body to control stop. Once you start squeezing, 87 00:05:34.810 --> 00:05:37.930 you're going to start grinding threads and that's going to give you a false 88 00:05:37.930 --> 00:05:41.680 reading of how tight it is or when you're going to loosen it that you believe it 89 00:05:41.740 --> 00:05:42.573 to be tight, 90 00:05:42.850 --> 00:05:46.870 when in fact you're squeezing the brass and grinding the threads together. 91 00:05:47.800 --> 00:05:52.780 So this example that we showed you of the proper tools is one of the reasons why 92 00:05:52.990 --> 00:05:54.640 we stress smooth jawed wrench. 93 00:05:55.450 --> 00:06:00.440 We offer our version as well as there are several other type out there 94 00:06:00.440 --> 00:06:02.990 that they're adjustable smooth jawed, but they're fixed jawed, 95 00:06:02.990 --> 00:06:06.830 which means we're not squeezing once we adjust it to the proper dimension. 96 00:06:07.340 --> 00:06:11.600 And what that'll do is it'll definitely help you in servicing the flushometer. 97 00:06:12.650 --> 00:06:17.000 So here we have laid out in front of us is an exploded or broken down view of 98 00:06:17.000 --> 00:06:21.110 all the components. We have the control stop, this is the exposed version. 99 00:06:21.470 --> 00:06:23.120 Here we have the concealed version, 100 00:06:23.600 --> 00:06:27.770 then we have the valve body and the vacuum breaker assembly 101 00:06:28.520 --> 00:06:31.610 as well as the handle and the spud coupling assembly. 102 00:06:32.000 --> 00:06:36.890 Inside the valve body we have an inside cover and then covered by 103 00:06:37.370 --> 00:06:40.550 the chrome cover as well as the heart of the flushometer, 104 00:06:40.550 --> 00:06:44.330 the diaphragm assembly. So the standard control stop, 105 00:06:44.330 --> 00:06:46.340 which is the H700 series, 106 00:06:47.180 --> 00:06:52.100 the only part that we're ever going to use any kind of pipe dope or thread will 107 00:06:52.100 --> 00:06:56.960 be on the male adapter that is protruding from the wall or the supply 108 00:06:56.960 --> 00:07:00.980 stub out. And that is going to make the seal because this is a pipe thread. 109 00:07:01.760 --> 00:07:05.990 So all the rest of the threads that we see on the valve body or on the control 110 00:07:05.990 --> 00:07:09.980 stop, all of these threads that we see, 111 00:07:10.220 --> 00:07:12.860 these are all straight threads and these are mechanical threads. So there's 112 00:07:12.860 --> 00:07:17.420 going to be a gasket or an O-ring that is going to create the seal. On the 113 00:07:17.420 --> 00:07:19.820 control stop, inside we got the repair kit. 114 00:07:20.870 --> 00:07:25.790 So when the time comes that you have to service this, inside is 115 00:07:25.790 --> 00:07:27.140 your standard repair kit. 116 00:07:27.500 --> 00:07:31.460 This outside flange here and the material act as the gasket. 117 00:07:31.460 --> 00:07:35.750 So once it's installed and you tighten up the bonnet assembly, 118 00:07:36.620 --> 00:07:38.630 what you're going to do is put a squeeze on 119 00:07:41.060 --> 00:07:45.560 the bonnet and that is going to tighten it up to the 120 00:07:45.560 --> 00:07:49.490 flange that is on the repair kit and that's how that makes that seal. 121 00:07:50.750 --> 00:07:54.200 On the control stop, we have the threads. These are a coupling thread. 122 00:07:54.200 --> 00:07:58.610 We're just drawing two parts together and on the valve body, you have an O-ring 123 00:07:58.670 --> 00:08:03.080 and the locking ring and then the coupling. So when these two fit together, 124 00:08:03.110 --> 00:08:07.880 it's the O-ring that makes the seal. So we don't put any pipe dope or any pipe 125 00:08:07.880 --> 00:08:12.860 Teflon tape or sealant or both on any of these threads because the way 126 00:08:12.860 --> 00:08:17.810 this is designed to work is you have a locking ring which binds into the 127 00:08:17.810 --> 00:08:22.220 bevel on the control stop as well as on the inside of the coupling, there's a 128 00:08:22.220 --> 00:08:24.200 bevel that matches to this locking ring. 129 00:08:24.830 --> 00:08:29.150 And when this comes together we have a nice smooth bore on the inside of the 130 00:08:29.150 --> 00:08:32.810 control stop. And then the O-ring is what seals it. 131 00:08:33.650 --> 00:08:38.180 What holds it in place is this locking ring. Once we tighten this coupling up, 132 00:08:38.900 --> 00:08:41.210 what happens is we bind that locking ring, 133 00:08:41.210 --> 00:08:43.910 which is a stainless steel locking ring, 134 00:08:44.930 --> 00:08:48.230 and once we tighten that up, 135 00:08:48.440 --> 00:08:53.300 what you've done is you've squeezed that ring to dent itself into 136 00:08:53.300 --> 00:08:58.050 the tailpiece to hold its position. Now sometimes once you turn water on, 137 00:08:58.500 --> 00:09:02.760 it might be positioned in such a way where it slides out. So in that case, 138 00:09:02.820 --> 00:09:05.880 one little simple thing you could do is you turn the water back off, 139 00:09:06.600 --> 00:09:08.730 you hit the handle, hold the handle, 140 00:09:09.240 --> 00:09:12.390 push the valve back in place there to line it up, 141 00:09:12.690 --> 00:09:14.580 and then we get a hold of the locking ring 142 00:09:16.410 --> 00:09:20.640 and we spin it about a half a turn, put it back on, 143 00:09:21.420 --> 00:09:23.310 and then we're going to go ahead and tighten it up. 144 00:09:24.570 --> 00:09:28.470 And then when we turn the water on the valve should stay steady. Once in a while, 145 00:09:29.430 --> 00:09:32.790 there's difficulty with the locking ring biting into its position. 146 00:09:32.790 --> 00:09:36.900 So that's one of the tips that we offer in order to make sure that the valve 147 00:09:37.140 --> 00:09:40.050 doesn't slide out. That it locks in its position. 148 00:09:40.050 --> 00:09:42.270 Once the valve shuts off and everything pressurizes, 149 00:09:42.270 --> 00:09:44.610 it locks and stays in its plumb position. 150 00:09:45.150 --> 00:09:49.980 Here we have a version of our royal cutaway valve and you'll 151 00:09:49.980 --> 00:09:54.120 see here that we have the control stop. And if you come up close, 152 00:09:54.360 --> 00:09:59.190 you'll see the main sealing part is when we tighten up this bonnet to the valve 153 00:09:59.190 --> 00:10:00.660 body, it makes the seal here. 154 00:10:01.530 --> 00:10:04.920 The second sealing part is the O-ring that's inside the cartridge. 155 00:10:05.550 --> 00:10:07.980 So this is the part that when we turn the screw 156 00:10:11.280 --> 00:10:15.720 to turn the water on or off, that's what's sliding inside this sleeve. 157 00:10:15.720 --> 00:10:20.010 This is a cutaway, so this is the O-ring that is making the seal. 158 00:10:20.310 --> 00:10:21.120 Over time, 159 00:10:21.120 --> 00:10:26.040 this O-ring will take a set and compression and it may stay that way for 10, 160 00:10:26.040 --> 00:10:29.370 20 years or so, or when the time comes to work on the valve. 161 00:10:29.370 --> 00:10:30.750 As you turn this screw, 162 00:10:31.890 --> 00:10:36.570 you may be getting some water squirting past here. That's normal. However, 163 00:10:36.840 --> 00:10:40.380 when the time comes that you can't prevent this from dripping anymore, 164 00:10:40.650 --> 00:10:44.850 one little note that you can try is turning this stop screw inside and out. 165 00:10:45.600 --> 00:10:50.100 And so what that does is it sweeps this O-ring on the inside of the cartridge 166 00:10:50.100 --> 00:10:54.060 here of the kit and sometimes there might be some scale that we're going to 167 00:10:54.060 --> 00:10:54.900 sweep clean. 168 00:10:55.380 --> 00:10:59.610 Part of the design of the control stop is a back check when the valve finishes 169 00:10:59.610 --> 00:11:03.900 flushing, this back checking gauges. If there's a negative pressure drop or a drop 170 00:11:03.900 --> 00:11:07.470 in pressure that the valve will not enter into a run on. 171 00:11:07.470 --> 00:11:10.650 So that's one of its three primary designs. 172 00:11:10.770 --> 00:11:15.240 The primary one is to turn the water on and off as well as make your adjustment. 173 00:11:15.240 --> 00:11:18.120 That's a control stop. A necessity is, 174 00:11:18.120 --> 00:11:22.050 this is why it's not a ball valve design where it's not just on and off that we 175 00:11:22.050 --> 00:11:26.190 actually control the flow because of different flushing pressures that 176 00:11:26.910 --> 00:11:30.570 you'll encounter depending on the size of the building, 177 00:11:30.570 --> 00:11:34.920 whether it's lots of floors or it's a very broad building 178 00:11:35.730 --> 00:11:38.880 where you have very long runs. So your flow pressures change. 179 00:11:38.880 --> 00:11:41.220 And during the course of that, we're going to watch the toilet, 180 00:11:41.550 --> 00:11:46.410 but this is essentially how we control the flow is how far open 181 00:11:46.410 --> 00:11:50.400 we're allowing this to open during the course of the flush. 182 00:11:51.360 --> 00:11:53.100 Next is the valve body assembly. 183 00:11:53.530 --> 00:11:56.590 So with the valve body we have the hole through the body. 184 00:11:56.590 --> 00:12:00.520 This is where all the flushing water is going into your toilet or service sink 185 00:12:00.880 --> 00:12:05.170 or your urinal. And this is the two ceiling areas. 186 00:12:05.170 --> 00:12:09.910 And then we have again coupling threads and they make with the cover 187 00:12:10.510 --> 00:12:14.170 and in between there we have the inner cover. 188 00:12:14.950 --> 00:12:18.820 Now the outside edge of a diaphragm assembly acts as a gasket. 189 00:12:19.510 --> 00:12:23.470 Once this is installed and the inner cover is placed on here, 190 00:12:23.770 --> 00:12:27.670 this is putting a squeeze on the outside edge of the diaphragm. 191 00:12:27.760 --> 00:12:32.500 That's what prevents it from leaking. The old diaphragm wearing against 192 00:12:32.500 --> 00:12:37.000 this inside cover. What happens is it can embed itself or 193 00:12:38.230 --> 00:12:42.250 it can wear it because the diaphragm is constantly moving up and down inside 194 00:12:42.250 --> 00:12:43.090 this inner cover. 195 00:12:43.780 --> 00:12:48.460 And what happens is that you can begin seeing some scoring here or some rubbing. 196 00:12:49.180 --> 00:12:51.310 If you have some pressure shocks in the system, 197 00:12:51.310 --> 00:12:56.260 you can develop some hairline cracks and what you'll see is eventually is you'll 198 00:12:56.260 --> 00:12:59.740 see leaking coming down the outside of the cover. 199 00:13:00.700 --> 00:13:05.560 So when this is tight and typically it's hand tight and then you snug it with 200 00:13:05.560 --> 00:13:09.460 the wrench and if you continue to see dripping coming from here, 201 00:13:09.670 --> 00:13:14.260 what happens is the diaphragm may no longer be sealing on the outside edge or 202 00:13:14.260 --> 00:13:16.000 you may have developed the hairline crack. 203 00:13:16.660 --> 00:13:21.580 The way we fix this is we look at replacing the diaphragm as 204 00:13:21.580 --> 00:13:25.480 well as the inner cover because these are the two parts that work together not 205 00:13:25.480 --> 00:13:30.070 only for the diaphragm assembly but to maintain a seal so we don't get any 206 00:13:30.070 --> 00:13:34.990 leaks. So here's an older inner cover that shows some score 207 00:13:34.990 --> 00:13:35.823 marks in there 208 00:13:37.960 --> 00:13:42.280 and this is what happens over time of a diaphragm wearing itself into the inner 209 00:13:42.280 --> 00:13:43.113 cover. 210 00:13:43.210 --> 00:13:47.590 Now the new design is black plastic versus the older design, 211 00:13:47.590 --> 00:13:51.970 which is a cream colored plastic. And in that case here, 212 00:13:51.970 --> 00:13:53.500 the dimensions are all the same, 213 00:13:53.830 --> 00:13:56.590 but this is a good example of a worn out inner cover. 214 00:13:56.590 --> 00:14:01.210 That's why it's a good idea to always change the inner cover when we're 215 00:14:01.210 --> 00:14:04.990 installing a new diaphragm assembly because these two parts wear together and 216 00:14:05.050 --> 00:14:06.730 they work together and they wear together. 217 00:14:07.060 --> 00:14:10.780 This is why it's a good idea that when you change the diaphragm assembly, 218 00:14:10.840 --> 00:14:12.310 we want to change the inner cover. 219 00:14:13.090 --> 00:14:16.570 One of the things we want to look at is when we're looking at the valve body is 220 00:14:16.570 --> 00:14:21.250 this top bore surface and we want to make sure that there's no flaking chrome or 221 00:14:21.250 --> 00:14:26.020 any pitting as well as this outside surface. If there's any flaking chrome or 222 00:14:26.020 --> 00:14:30.130 you may see pitting, in some cases what you can do is take some very fine emery 223 00:14:30.130 --> 00:14:30.460 cloth, 224 00:14:30.460 --> 00:14:34.870 you dip it in some water and you clean off the chrome here and to make sure it's 225 00:14:34.870 --> 00:14:37.810 smooth. We don't want to necessarily grind any brass away, 226 00:14:37.810 --> 00:14:42.010 we just want to clean it until we got a smooth surface as well as this outside 227 00:14:42.010 --> 00:14:42.640 edge. 228 00:14:42.640 --> 00:14:46.450 So the first thing you could do is take a scouring pad or something to clean off 229 00:14:46.450 --> 00:14:48.670 what's loose or a brass bristled brush. 230 00:14:48.970 --> 00:14:50.980 We don't want to use anything outside of brass because 231 00:14:51.350 --> 00:14:56.330 steel may begin to scratch it because it's stronger than the brass itself. 232 00:14:56.390 --> 00:15:00.320 So a brass bristle brush will keep it nice and clean and then whatever's loose 233 00:15:00.320 --> 00:15:04.910 you can smoothen up with some very fine emery cloth with a little water 234 00:15:05.360 --> 00:15:08.630 and then you wipe it clean. And as long as we feel a nice smooth surface, 235 00:15:08.630 --> 00:15:10.550 if you see any pits or chips in there, 236 00:15:10.790 --> 00:15:12.980 then it's time to change the valve body assembly. 237 00:15:13.400 --> 00:15:18.170 So here we have an example of a 65-year-old flushometer 238 00:15:18.560 --> 00:15:21.290 that we removed recently. It was working up until then, 239 00:15:21.620 --> 00:15:23.990 but they wanted to refinish the restrooms. 240 00:15:23.990 --> 00:15:28.280 So in doing so they removed the valves in place of some very nice 241 00:15:28.700 --> 00:15:30.080 chrome plated clean ones. 242 00:15:30.530 --> 00:15:35.450 So what we're looking for here is we've seen signs of pipe 243 00:15:35.450 --> 00:15:37.760 dope. We've got a worn out, 244 00:15:37.910 --> 00:15:42.350 a wrong inner cover inside here because they had leaking that was going on. 245 00:15:42.890 --> 00:15:44.870 Here's a diaphragm. You could see some pipe dope. 246 00:15:44.870 --> 00:15:48.560 And what happens is it can get into the bypass hole of the diaphragm assembly. 247 00:15:49.190 --> 00:15:50.630 One other thing they ran into, 248 00:15:50.960 --> 00:15:55.280 what you see here on this edge is the old diaphragm assembly. 249 00:16:00.500 --> 00:16:01.750 Did you get that? Yes, yes. 250 00:16:02.120 --> 00:16:06.830 So what wound up happening is somebody that worked on it didn't realize that 251 00:16:06.830 --> 00:16:09.500 there was an old diaphragm assembly outside edge, 252 00:16:09.770 --> 00:16:11.570 which means when they pulled this apart, 253 00:16:11.600 --> 00:16:14.930 that diaphragm was so worn out that it just crumbled on them. 254 00:16:15.800 --> 00:16:18.890 So what happens is that sits too high, 255 00:16:18.890 --> 00:16:22.580 it's going to cause a way too long of a flush and you're not engaging all the 256 00:16:22.580 --> 00:16:24.020 threads. As you can see here, 257 00:16:24.350 --> 00:16:29.000 all this pipe dope here wasn't even being used as a sign. 258 00:16:29.420 --> 00:16:32.630 Even though they use pipe dope, it shows you where it was engaging. 259 00:16:32.630 --> 00:16:37.040 So we only had a couple of threads actually holding the cover on there and 260 00:16:37.040 --> 00:16:40.280 typically you want to bottom it out to at least the four threads there. 261 00:16:40.610 --> 00:16:44.180 So this way we know we got a tight seal. So now that we look here, 262 00:16:44.450 --> 00:16:47.540 you could see even though the chrome is worn away, 263 00:16:47.540 --> 00:16:51.470 we still have a nice smooth surface. This outside edge is a little rough, 264 00:16:51.470 --> 00:16:53.840 so what I'm going to do is take a little fine emery cloth, 265 00:16:54.110 --> 00:16:57.620 dip it in some water and just clean it up until it's smooth again. 266 00:16:57.920 --> 00:16:59.240 It doesn't have to be perfect. 267 00:16:59.240 --> 00:17:03.140 That diaphragm will find its set in there and there's enough squeeze on there 268 00:17:03.140 --> 00:17:05.750 that we're going to fill any small voids. 269 00:17:06.050 --> 00:17:10.790 Now one of the things that on this older valve that was not correct 270 00:17:10.790 --> 00:17:14.300 besides the pipe dope that's on here is the wrong inner cover. 271 00:17:15.020 --> 00:17:19.820 The old style inner covers have a very long 272 00:17:20.420 --> 00:17:25.040 nipple on the top and what that does is it bottoms out against the inside of the 273 00:17:25.040 --> 00:17:28.220 cover and it's secured at two points. 274 00:17:28.550 --> 00:17:33.500 The thickness of this plastic mimics the old design of the brass inner 275 00:17:33.500 --> 00:17:37.940 covers. And so the A11 was designed for these older bell shaped covers. 276 00:17:38.330 --> 00:17:43.190 The A71 inside cover was designed for the current cover 277 00:17:43.250 --> 00:17:47.930 and it may be stamped Royal, Regal or you may see the word Sloan, 278 00:17:48.230 --> 00:17:51.870 you may see the word Royal Two. All these types 279 00:17:52.680 --> 00:17:56.910 use the A11. Here's a version of the Royal Two. 280 00:17:56.970 --> 00:17:58.710 You can see it's got a different shape, 281 00:17:58.770 --> 00:18:03.420 but internally the dimensions are the same and that's what uses the 282 00:18:03.420 --> 00:18:05.460 A71 inner cover. 283 00:18:06.540 --> 00:18:09.840 And I'm going to go to a cutaway valve to show you why it's important. 284 00:18:10.920 --> 00:18:15.450 Here's the old style bell-shaped cover and you'll see how the inner 285 00:18:15.450 --> 00:18:17.070 cover designed for it, 286 00:18:17.070 --> 00:18:21.930 the A11, bottoms out at the top of the inner cover as well 287 00:18:21.930 --> 00:18:26.850 as catching it on the outside edge all the way around for its outside squeeze to 288 00:18:26.850 --> 00:18:29.430 make a seal with the diaphragm assembly. 289 00:18:30.090 --> 00:18:34.740 So here you can see on this cutaway cover, you can see how it's bottoming out. 290 00:18:35.790 --> 00:18:40.020 If we were to use an A71 in there, 291 00:18:40.590 --> 00:18:43.770 you can see that we have no support on the top of it. 292 00:18:43.800 --> 00:18:46.320 What will eventually happen is this will split out, 293 00:18:47.250 --> 00:18:50.550 so on the A71 inner cover with the current valve, 294 00:18:50.550 --> 00:18:55.470 and these are current valve meaning that the current design since 1969, 295 00:18:56.040 --> 00:19:00.060 and you could see here on the cutaway you could see that we're holding it in all 296 00:19:00.060 --> 00:19:04.890 three positions where we're bracing it with the cover on the shoulder 297 00:19:05.040 --> 00:19:09.030 on the top of the inner cover as well as on the outside edge, 298 00:19:09.060 --> 00:19:11.490 maintaining the squeeze on the diaphragm for the seal. 299 00:19:13.950 --> 00:19:18.660 Now of course the A, okay, let's go back. 300 00:19:19.410 --> 00:19:23.850 Now of course the A11 old style inner cover will not fit in here for obvious 301 00:19:23.850 --> 00:19:27.270 reasons. Its specific design is for the old style 302 00:19:29.790 --> 00:19:30.690 bell-shaped cover. 303 00:19:31.110 --> 00:19:35.070 The A11 is designed to fit inside there and properly maintain 304 00:19:35.790 --> 00:19:38.370 structural integrity and bracing it as well as the seal. 305 00:19:39.780 --> 00:19:43.920 Now with covers and inner covers on the rare occasions that your 306 00:19:43.920 --> 00:19:47.040 installation may have a continental cover, 307 00:19:47.040 --> 00:19:51.090 as you can see it's got just a smooth low profile dome on there. 308 00:19:51.120 --> 00:19:55.050 Most of the times it'll be stamped Continental or some people put their own 309 00:19:55.050 --> 00:19:57.510 etching on there when the flushometer was ordered. 310 00:19:57.810 --> 00:20:02.340 But this uses its own inner cover and this is known as the A71 special 311 00:20:02.850 --> 00:20:07.500 and it's actually molded on the inner cover. It says special A71. 312 00:20:08.340 --> 00:20:11.340 And as you see, this has no nipple on the top, 313 00:20:11.520 --> 00:20:16.440 but it's braced against the top and the shoulders and the outside edge for these 314 00:20:16.440 --> 00:20:21.360 style of inner covers. So now we move on to the handle assembly. 315 00:20:21.510 --> 00:20:25.830 The handle assembly is the important part of activating a flush, 316 00:20:25.920 --> 00:20:30.360 and what that does is it trips the relief valve that's on the diaphragm 317 00:20:30.390 --> 00:20:32.520 assembly. The handle is coming in, 318 00:20:32.580 --> 00:20:36.900 puts a tilt on it and then begins your flush and then the diaphragm lifts inside 319 00:20:36.900 --> 00:20:39.540 the valve body and then it comes back down to shut off. 320 00:20:39.600 --> 00:20:42.990 And then with the integrated parts of the diaphragm assembly, 321 00:20:42.990 --> 00:20:46.860 this is what's controlling part of your volume as well as how quickly it shuts 322 00:20:46.870 --> 00:20:47.590 off. 323 00:20:47.590 --> 00:20:52.570 So the reason why this is an integral part and a very important part 324 00:20:52.900 --> 00:20:56.290 is a handle does wear out and there's two forms of wearing out. 325 00:20:56.320 --> 00:20:59.950 One is leaking and two places that it's going to leak. 326 00:20:59.980 --> 00:21:02.170 If it begins to leak from the coupling, 327 00:21:02.950 --> 00:21:05.890 that tells you that the gasket, when it's new, 328 00:21:06.160 --> 00:21:10.270 you may not have put enough squeeze on the coupling assembly and it means that 329 00:21:10.270 --> 00:21:15.250 the gasket is not providing a sea. If it leaks from the knuckle, that 330 00:21:15.250 --> 00:21:20.020 tells you that inside the handle assembly, the seal has worn out and 331 00:21:20.020 --> 00:21:23.170 water is beginning to pass by the plunger assembly. 332 00:21:23.170 --> 00:21:26.650 And sometimes you may find a push button on the front of your valve and you'll 333 00:21:26.650 --> 00:21:30.730 see that it also has a seal on there. We have two different types. 334 00:21:31.120 --> 00:21:35.560 We've got the B50A, which has been around for a long number of years, 335 00:21:35.560 --> 00:21:37.120 going back over 50 years, 336 00:21:37.510 --> 00:21:41.230 and you'll see that when it's a B50A, 337 00:21:41.350 --> 00:21:45.970 the bushing is white and you'll see it's got the plunger in spring and you got 338 00:21:46.480 --> 00:21:49.690 the cone seal and this fits and snaps over the barb. 339 00:21:49.720 --> 00:21:52.390 And then we have the gasket for the side of the valve body. 340 00:21:52.840 --> 00:21:57.130 One tip that I suggest is using a hundred percent silicone grease, 341 00:21:57.340 --> 00:21:59.620 whereas what you'll do is you'll take your grease, 342 00:21:59.680 --> 00:22:04.420 you'll put a little dab on the inside of the seal and a little 343 00:22:04.420 --> 00:22:09.370 bit on the outside here and a little on the plunger and make 344 00:22:09.370 --> 00:22:13.930 sure it's a hundred percent silicone grease because any petroleum-based 345 00:22:14.230 --> 00:22:18.190 grease, what it'll do is it'll begin deteriorating the seal. 346 00:22:19.510 --> 00:22:23.920 So once we greased it up and we put this on there, you'll feel it snap over, 347 00:22:23.920 --> 00:22:27.610 give it a little spin to make sure it's over the barb and just wipe off any 348 00:22:27.610 --> 00:22:29.020 excess on the outside. 349 00:22:29.290 --> 00:22:32.800 And what that'll do is it'll have a little lubricant inside and extend the life 350 00:22:32.800 --> 00:22:34.780 of your B50A kit. 351 00:22:35.080 --> 00:22:39.970 Then we move into the Royal handle repair kit assembly and what this is is 352 00:22:39.970 --> 00:22:44.620 it's got an added feature to it. Inside this cone seal, as you can see, 353 00:22:44.950 --> 00:22:49.000 it's got a bump inside there is a groove. 354 00:22:49.150 --> 00:22:53.650 And inside that groove, you'll see that we have there 355 00:22:53.860 --> 00:22:58.690 silicone grease already pre-installed and inside there's actually two 356 00:22:58.690 --> 00:23:03.010 grooves inside there and that holds grease and maintains a seal 357 00:23:03.010 --> 00:23:07.480 on the inside. We have a second handle repair kit, and this one here, 358 00:23:07.870 --> 00:23:08.950 it comes preassembled. 359 00:23:08.950 --> 00:23:13.090 This is the B51A. And you'll see it's got the same 360 00:23:13.510 --> 00:23:16.420 spraying, the same plunger. Instead of white, 361 00:23:16.420 --> 00:23:18.760 it has a black bushing and the handle kit, 362 00:23:18.790 --> 00:23:23.320 but the important part of it is the seal. The main component is the seal. 363 00:23:23.650 --> 00:23:25.420 You'll see this comes preassembled. 364 00:23:25.420 --> 00:23:29.980 The reason being is we pre grease it on the inside of the plunger 365 00:23:30.310 --> 00:23:34.060 and that's the reason why you see this bump is because there's a groove in there 366 00:23:34.330 --> 00:23:35.770 holding the grease. 367 00:23:35.890 --> 00:23:40.810 And so what happens is it's a pocket of grease that is constantly keeping the 368 00:23:40.810 --> 00:23:42.850 plunger lubricated as it goes in and out. 369 00:23:42.850 --> 00:23:47.600 And what that does is it slightly greases the other end of the 370 00:23:47.600 --> 00:23:50.930 cone seal and this maintains lubricity on there. 371 00:23:50.930 --> 00:23:54.560 So it extends the life of the plunger with the handle. 372 00:23:54.740 --> 00:23:57.260 This is what we replace when the handle is leaking. 373 00:23:57.530 --> 00:24:02.150 One of the other things about the handle that we have to pay attention to is as 374 00:24:02.150 --> 00:24:07.040 a valve gets older and especially when it's a standard height flushometer and 375 00:24:07.040 --> 00:24:10.760 unfortunately people do kick it with their feet all the time, 376 00:24:10.760 --> 00:24:15.470 and what can happen is the handle itself can wear out. And you'll notice 377 00:24:15.470 --> 00:24:20.210 that in the flush itself where the flush is not the same between flushes. From 378 00:24:20.210 --> 00:24:21.230 flush to flush, 379 00:24:21.530 --> 00:24:26.450 what you'll see is that the flush is shorter sometimes or sometimes it seems 380 00:24:26.450 --> 00:24:27.830 like it's a partial flush. 381 00:24:27.890 --> 00:24:30.980 So whether the handle is the current Royal style handle, 382 00:24:30.980 --> 00:24:34.340 the B73A handle assembly or the older style, 383 00:24:34.640 --> 00:24:38.420 which is the B32 handle assembly, they do wear out. 384 00:24:38.780 --> 00:24:40.640 And in the case of an older flushometer, 385 00:24:41.000 --> 00:24:45.260 you'll see the old style B32 handle assembly when these have been around a 386 00:24:45.260 --> 00:24:45.590 while. 387 00:24:45.590 --> 00:24:49.430 And you can see this one's had signs of leaking because you could see the scale 388 00:24:49.430 --> 00:24:50.420 buildup on there, 389 00:24:50.780 --> 00:24:54.980 but what can happen over the years and whether it's the newer style B32 or the 390 00:24:54.980 --> 00:24:57.590 B73A or this older style one. 391 00:24:58.100 --> 00:25:01.910 So what you could see over the years is we have to look at the handle and what 392 00:25:01.910 --> 00:25:06.350 contributes to that is erratic flushing. We're going to take the handle assembly 393 00:25:06.830 --> 00:25:09.980 apart and we're going to get down to the handle. 394 00:25:10.190 --> 00:25:14.990 And what we could see here is a groove has worn itself into the handle. 395 00:25:15.350 --> 00:25:19.910 What happens is inside that groove is actually grabbing the end of the 396 00:25:19.910 --> 00:25:24.770 plunger and lifting on it. Normally when you push the handle, 397 00:25:25.010 --> 00:25:28.070 it forces its way outward. Over time, 398 00:25:28.070 --> 00:25:32.570 that groove can develop and that actually picks up on the plunger 399 00:25:32.900 --> 00:25:36.920 and it tilts it downward. So it's going to wear the bushing, 400 00:25:36.920 --> 00:25:41.810 the hole through the bushing as well as the lower that the plunger tilts 401 00:25:41.810 --> 00:25:46.430 down during the course of extending it, when you push down on the handle, 402 00:25:46.790 --> 00:25:51.560 the lower this is, the lower it is hitting the relief valve on the diaphragm 403 00:25:51.560 --> 00:25:51.980 assembly. 404 00:25:51.980 --> 00:25:55.610 And what that contributes to is it's going to give you a shorter flush. 405 00:25:56.030 --> 00:26:00.950 So the handle would be replaced in this case because it does wear out. 406 00:26:01.160 --> 00:26:05.330 And so you would pick up a B73A handle. While you're at it, 407 00:26:05.570 --> 00:26:10.340 the difference between the B73A and the B32A 408 00:26:10.670 --> 00:26:15.560 is the B73A automatically comes with the better seal on 409 00:26:15.620 --> 00:26:18.410 the cone seal on the handle as well as you can see, 410 00:26:18.410 --> 00:26:20.690 it's a little longer and it's ADA compliant, 411 00:26:20.840 --> 00:26:25.550 whereas the B32A is not ADA compliant. It's not long enough, 412 00:26:25.550 --> 00:26:30.260 requires more leverage and it's a direct replacement from the old style 413 00:26:30.260 --> 00:26:31.093 B32. 414 00:26:31.610 --> 00:26:35.000 So you happen to have a concealed valve which sits behind a wall or you have to 415 00:26:35.000 --> 00:26:39.170 cut through an access panel. You're going to have the C9A, 416 00:26:39.170 --> 00:26:42.290 which will be a button assembly, or you're going to have the B12A, 417 00:26:42.860 --> 00:26:45.660 which is the handle assembly protruding through the wall. 418 00:26:45.660 --> 00:26:49.740 So on the front of a panel you may see the wall box version and this one has a 419 00:26:49.740 --> 00:26:54.480 hex on there which utilizes a little set screw that we're going to loosen. 420 00:26:54.780 --> 00:26:56.280 And once we loosen this, 421 00:26:56.310 --> 00:27:01.140 we take this flange off and then this gives us access to removing 422 00:27:02.010 --> 00:27:05.490 the wall plate or the wall panel that you'll have on your wall box. 423 00:27:06.450 --> 00:27:09.420 And so this is what'll be sitting out and then you remove the panel and then you 424 00:27:09.420 --> 00:27:12.870 have your handle assembly. The back end of the handle assembly, 425 00:27:12.900 --> 00:27:14.370 just like on a conceal valve, 426 00:27:14.820 --> 00:27:19.470 you'll see they both come to the same components. 427 00:27:19.830 --> 00:27:24.600 Now on a concealed valve, the bushing is brass, it is not plastic. 428 00:27:24.840 --> 00:27:29.250 So we don't use a B51 or a B50A 429 00:27:29.550 --> 00:27:33.180 handle repair kit on 'em because it's plastic. And there's two things about it. 430 00:27:33.600 --> 00:27:37.440 One showing you the B51A, 431 00:27:37.860 --> 00:27:42.420 you can see that the flange is half of the thickness. 432 00:27:44.310 --> 00:27:48.660 What that's going to do is bring this closer and inside the valve body, 433 00:27:48.660 --> 00:27:52.950 the relief valve may set on top of it because you're bringing it too close. So 434 00:27:52.950 --> 00:27:54.210 the reason that is this thick, 435 00:27:54.210 --> 00:27:58.230 it is so this way it brings it further away from the relief valve. 436 00:27:59.070 --> 00:28:01.710 So that way when it's pushing or when the valve shuts off, 437 00:28:01.710 --> 00:28:04.230 it doesn't rest on it. It comes back in place in front of it. 438 00:28:05.490 --> 00:28:07.290 Now in these type of designs here, 439 00:28:07.860 --> 00:28:11.340 where they'll leak from is around the knuckle and when they leak around the 440 00:28:11.340 --> 00:28:13.950 knuckle, or in the case of a push button when it's flushing, 441 00:28:14.250 --> 00:28:16.470 that means the seal has gone out. 442 00:28:16.770 --> 00:28:21.120 And so what we do is we replace it with the concealed repair kit, 443 00:28:21.450 --> 00:28:25.410 and this is the C77A. We offer the C70A, 444 00:28:25.560 --> 00:28:26.700 which is a common one, 445 00:28:26.940 --> 00:28:31.920 but you'll see that that one has the standard seal that you find on the B32A. 446 00:28:32.430 --> 00:28:35.880 So it's not going to last as long, but when you do put it together, 447 00:28:35.880 --> 00:28:38.070 you can slap a little grease on the inside of it, 448 00:28:38.100 --> 00:28:42.750 make sure it's a hundred percent silicone grease and that'll extend a life. Or 449 00:28:42.780 --> 00:28:47.640 you can get the C77A and this way you're going to get it preassembled 450 00:28:47.640 --> 00:28:50.580 with the pre-greased higher quality cone seal. 451 00:28:50.970 --> 00:28:55.170 And this is what we're going to replace on the valve body here with the current 452 00:28:55.170 --> 00:28:59.520 one, we don't use the plastic one, we use the C70A or the C77A. 453 00:28:59.820 --> 00:29:01.500 We prefer the C77A. 454 00:29:01.500 --> 00:29:06.000 It'll get you further life expectancy out of the handle assembly. Vacuum breaker 455 00:29:06.000 --> 00:29:06.420 tube 456 00:29:06.420 --> 00:29:10.680 and the reason it's a vacuum breaker tube besides being flanged is it has vent 457 00:29:10.680 --> 00:29:12.660 holes punched into the top of the tube. 458 00:29:13.260 --> 00:29:17.910 And the way it works is we have a vacuum breaker and it's a flexible 459 00:29:17.910 --> 00:29:18.743 sack. 460 00:29:19.140 --> 00:29:24.090 And the way this works is once it's installed and without 461 00:29:24.090 --> 00:29:26.940 coupling in the way there, it sits like this, 462 00:29:28.320 --> 00:29:30.480 and the tube sits over. 463 00:29:30.600 --> 00:29:33.390 And the way this works is during the course of the flush 464 00:29:36.810 --> 00:29:40.920 water will expand this, and being that it's still a tight fit, 465 00:29:40.930 --> 00:29:45.670 what it does is it seals itself to the inside of the holes during the flush. So 466 00:29:45.670 --> 00:29:49.150 water is going to exit through the slit in the bottom, 467 00:29:49.150 --> 00:29:53.320 this will expand, and as it's flushing, 468 00:29:53.320 --> 00:29:57.250 water is flowing into the toilet or the urinal, 469 00:29:57.430 --> 00:30:01.480 and at the end of the flush, as the valve slowly closes off, 470 00:30:01.480 --> 00:30:06.190 the sack relaxes and then air is drawn through as the 471 00:30:06.190 --> 00:30:09.910 siphon creates a suction finishing off the rest of the water, 472 00:30:09.910 --> 00:30:14.050 which is replenishing the water spot. And so this is required by code, 473 00:30:14.590 --> 00:30:18.670 and if you look close enough, stamped on the vacuum breaker assembly, 474 00:30:19.180 --> 00:30:23.350 you could see this CL, which stands for critical level. 475 00:30:24.280 --> 00:30:29.260 And this line can't be any shorter than six inches to the top of the 476 00:30:29.260 --> 00:30:31.900 toilet because that's considered the flood rim level. 477 00:30:32.380 --> 00:30:34.810 And so when you're installing one by code, 478 00:30:34.900 --> 00:30:37.630 you can't be any less than six inches to the top of the toilet. 479 00:30:38.140 --> 00:30:43.120 Sloan offers two types of vacuum breakers assembly. The tube is the same 480 00:30:43.270 --> 00:30:46.840 whether it is the V500A or V500AA. 481 00:30:47.980 --> 00:30:52.900 The A being the short one with a male slip joint adapter spliced 482 00:30:52.900 --> 00:30:56.440 to the bottom of the tube and then the standard vacuum breaker tube. 483 00:30:56.950 --> 00:31:00.910 And whether it's a V500AA or a V600AA, 484 00:31:01.510 --> 00:31:05.770 the tube is the same. What you'll see is two different couplings, one coupling, 485 00:31:05.770 --> 00:31:09.100 you'll see they're both the same height, 486 00:31:09.100 --> 00:31:13.600 but what you'll see is this skirt here and the hex is on the top. 487 00:31:13.660 --> 00:31:16.060 And this will come standard on the V500A 488 00:31:18.010 --> 00:31:22.720 and the V600A uses a one piece machine coupling 489 00:31:22.780 --> 00:31:26.530 and it still has the skirt on the bottom end, but the hex is on the bottom end. 490 00:31:26.530 --> 00:31:30.280 And what that does is it gives you a little bit more clearance on the bottom of 491 00:31:30.280 --> 00:31:33.580 the valve. When you have a handle on there and you're turning a wrench, 492 00:31:33.580 --> 00:31:37.000 that'll give you a little bit more clearance away from the handle. So you're not 493 00:31:37.000 --> 00:31:39.190 going to be scraping your knuckles or anything like that. 494 00:31:40.300 --> 00:31:44.050 So the other difference is when you have a V500A, 495 00:31:44.500 --> 00:31:49.450 it comes standard with the V551A vacuum breaker kit inside, 496 00:31:50.050 --> 00:31:53.230 and you could see the difference between the V500A 497 00:31:54.760 --> 00:31:58.690 and the V600A vacuum breakers. The V551A 498 00:31:58.690 --> 00:32:03.550 vacuum breaker kit, that's the name of the repair kit, and the V651A 499 00:32:03.550 --> 00:32:07.600 vacuum breaker repair kit. This has an extended skirt on there. 500 00:32:07.600 --> 00:32:08.740 They both have the bubble, 501 00:32:09.880 --> 00:32:14.740 but what this does is it allows more surface adherence during the flush 502 00:32:14.740 --> 00:32:19.060 because of high efficiency toilets, 1.28 and 1.6, 503 00:32:19.480 --> 00:32:22.210 what they do is they create a little bit more back pressure. 504 00:32:22.210 --> 00:32:27.040 So this sack here energizes a little quicker and gives you more surface adhesion 505 00:32:27.910 --> 00:32:32.260 to prevent that little bit of spill of water at the end of the flush. They're 506 00:32:32.260 --> 00:32:36.760 interchangeable as a repair kit. And when asked, 507 00:32:37.330 --> 00:32:40.430 which one do you prefer? I said, well, being that they're interchangeable, 508 00:32:40.460 --> 00:32:44.150 I always suggest the V651A as a repair kit. 509 00:32:44.420 --> 00:32:48.620 If you're going to purchase the vacuum breaker tube assembly, 510 00:32:48.680 --> 00:32:53.390 then you would use the V600AA vacuum breaker assembly. 511 00:32:53.390 --> 00:32:57.980 So you'll get the benefits of the coupling with the hex on the bottom as well 512 00:32:57.980 --> 00:32:59.750 as the extended skirt, 513 00:33:00.140 --> 00:33:04.880 the high back pressure skirt there on the vacuum breaker assembly. 514 00:33:05.960 --> 00:33:09.110 One little note on the vacuum breaker repair kits, 515 00:33:09.200 --> 00:33:13.310 whether it be the V551A or the V651A kit, 516 00:33:14.030 --> 00:33:17.990 you'll notice there was a change in the baffle on the inside. 517 00:33:19.070 --> 00:33:23.600 The reason being is we redesigned the baffle to allow more water to flow through 518 00:33:23.600 --> 00:33:27.080 there because the higher efficiency toilets there, 519 00:33:27.080 --> 00:33:30.590 this can have slightly more restriction than this design. 520 00:33:30.590 --> 00:33:35.540 So we switched over recently to this design maybe a few years ago. And 521 00:33:35.540 --> 00:33:39.830 so this was the long standard design here for approximately 50 years, 522 00:33:40.070 --> 00:33:43.880 and we moved over to this design there to allow more flow for high efficiency 523 00:33:43.880 --> 00:33:47.540 toilets. They're equal in performance. 524 00:33:47.540 --> 00:33:51.860 You won't see any effect on the difference of performance or anything 525 00:33:52.220 --> 00:33:55.760 except for the fact that it allows a little bit more water during the course of 526 00:33:55.760 --> 00:33:56.593 the flush. 527 00:33:57.110 --> 00:34:01.850 Both parts work equally well except this allows a little bit more 528 00:34:01.850 --> 00:34:06.380 volume during the course of the gallons per flush on the 529 00:34:06.380 --> 00:34:09.260 flush. It doesn't increase the volume itself. 530 00:34:09.380 --> 00:34:13.400 What it does is it increases the flow during the course of the flush. 531 00:34:13.760 --> 00:34:16.130 So whether using the V551A 532 00:34:16.130 --> 00:34:19.280 vacuum breaker assembly or the V651A 533 00:34:19.490 --> 00:34:21.140 vacuum breaker assembly, 534 00:34:21.710 --> 00:34:24.830 the standard is when this is a repair, 535 00:34:24.860 --> 00:34:29.480 the first thing we want to do is we want to make sure that the inside diameter 536 00:34:30.260 --> 00:34:34.190 of the tube, usually you want to look at the first few inches in there, 537 00:34:34.190 --> 00:34:37.700 first two to three inches. You want to make sure it's smooth. Over time, 538 00:34:37.940 --> 00:34:42.200 you'll get scale buildup on the inside. And what happens is, 539 00:34:42.380 --> 00:34:44.330 here's an example of an old one here. 540 00:34:44.420 --> 00:34:49.100 You'll get some scale buildup and it'll work its way up 541 00:34:49.100 --> 00:34:51.230 over time and then you'll see some dripping. 542 00:34:51.230 --> 00:34:54.560 And typically the way that works is at the end of the flush, 543 00:34:54.620 --> 00:34:56.660 you might see a little drip or spill of water. 544 00:34:57.200 --> 00:35:00.290 Now this is aside from multiple flushing, 545 00:35:00.320 --> 00:35:03.440 which is something we don't do to test a vacuum breaker. 546 00:35:03.650 --> 00:35:07.280 You want to wait until all the water drains from the tube and the toilet and the 547 00:35:07.280 --> 00:35:09.980 water spot settles and then you flush again. 548 00:35:09.980 --> 00:35:14.390 And if you see a drip that tells you this is time to change the vacuum breaker 549 00:35:14.390 --> 00:35:17.630 assembly. This one of course has outlived its usefulness. 550 00:35:17.630 --> 00:35:21.500 And one other thing that I want to show you on this is you see how it's curled 551 00:35:21.500 --> 00:35:25.130 over. This is because somebody overtightened it. 552 00:35:25.430 --> 00:35:29.570 It's possible that what happened was it started dripping and they figured that 553 00:35:29.570 --> 00:35:33.080 the coupling was loose. So they overtightened it. And by doing that, 554 00:35:33.080 --> 00:35:37.920 what they wound up doing is is they smashed the outside edge 555 00:35:38.040 --> 00:35:42.780 of the seal of the vacuum breaker around the vacuum breaker baffle. 556 00:35:43.500 --> 00:35:47.550 So this is a big no-no. Usually it's hand tightened with a slight snug. 557 00:35:49.680 --> 00:35:53.670 And so once we clean this up, and if you find some buildup and scale, 558 00:35:54.030 --> 00:35:57.510 use a coarse rag or scouring pad to see what you can break up. 559 00:35:57.630 --> 00:36:01.440 If it's so embedded that you can't get it out of there, 560 00:36:01.440 --> 00:36:04.770 then I would advise replacing the vacuum breaker assembly, 561 00:36:04.770 --> 00:36:07.500 buying the whole V600AA or V500AA. 562 00:36:08.460 --> 00:36:11.730 So you'll get a brand new tube along with the new kit and sorts. 563 00:36:11.820 --> 00:36:14.130 But if it's relatively on a new side, 564 00:36:14.130 --> 00:36:17.280 and that can be anywhere between the last 10, 20 years, 565 00:36:18.600 --> 00:36:22.560 what we do is we take a fine Emory cloth and we can scrub it clean. 566 00:36:22.590 --> 00:36:26.670 If it breaks apart clean and then you put a nice polish back on there, 567 00:36:26.670 --> 00:36:27.360 then we're good to go. 568 00:36:27.360 --> 00:36:31.200 We don't want to use anything coarse because as you grind the brass away, 569 00:36:31.200 --> 00:36:32.550 you're going to leave heavy scratches, 570 00:36:32.550 --> 00:36:36.540 which can wick water past there. So we want to keep it nice and smooth on the 571 00:36:36.540 --> 00:36:36.960 inside. 572 00:36:36.960 --> 00:36:41.430 This is why we use a very fine Emory cloth to clean it up or a scouring pad to 573 00:36:41.430 --> 00:36:44.160 see what we can break free. We don't have to do the whole tube. 574 00:36:44.160 --> 00:36:48.960 We're only talking about the adhesion side or the adhesion surface where the vacuum 575 00:36:48.960 --> 00:36:53.250 breaker lays. So when installing the vacuum breaker assembly, 576 00:36:53.940 --> 00:36:57.210 once you install the kit, and this is after the tube has been cleaned out, 577 00:36:57.870 --> 00:37:01.170 we have our fiber gasket or friction ring. 578 00:37:01.920 --> 00:37:06.180 Now oftentimes what happens is once you install this and put this on here, 579 00:37:06.840 --> 00:37:10.710 and you tighten it up on the valve, and again, 580 00:37:10.770 --> 00:37:14.310 we hand tighten it and then we're just going to take our wrench and we're going 581 00:37:14.310 --> 00:37:15.540 to just snug it up. 582 00:37:16.740 --> 00:37:20.310 That's all that's needed because if you look at the thickness of this and the 583 00:37:20.310 --> 00:37:21.390 pliability of it, 584 00:37:21.390 --> 00:37:25.360 it doesn't take a whole lot to put a nice squeeze on there. When it's inside of 585 00:37:25.360 --> 00:37:29.070 a coupling, it's captive, so it's not going to mash outward. 586 00:37:29.070 --> 00:37:30.300 But if you overtighten it, 587 00:37:30.300 --> 00:37:35.040 you will wind up either cracking or forcing this baffle to bend 588 00:37:35.040 --> 00:37:36.660 inward and create a gap. 589 00:37:36.660 --> 00:37:39.930 This is why it's hand tightened and snug it with a wrench. 590 00:37:41.730 --> 00:37:46.680 What happens is you turn the water on now and the fiber gasket has not 591 00:37:46.740 --> 00:37:51.240 soaked up the water yet to fatten up and fill any voids that might be in between 592 00:37:51.240 --> 00:37:55.050 the bottom of the valve body and the top of the vacuum breaker. 593 00:37:55.050 --> 00:38:00.000 So what you'll see is water will drip from above and the first 594 00:38:00.000 --> 00:38:02.880 instance you're thinking is, oh, it's not tight enough. Well, 595 00:38:03.180 --> 00:38:05.610 that's not the case. It is tight enough. 596 00:38:05.610 --> 00:38:10.470 What happens is this fiber gasket has not swelled or filled any slight void. 597 00:38:10.470 --> 00:38:15.240 So what I always advise is to wet the fiber gasket firs. Before you 598 00:38:15.240 --> 00:38:15.870 install it, 599 00:38:15.870 --> 00:38:20.520 dip it in a little bit of water and let it start fattening up with soaking up 600 00:38:20.520 --> 00:38:25.260 the water and then go ahead and install it. One other tip that you can 601 00:38:25.260 --> 00:38:28.800 do is you can take some silicone grease, 602 00:38:28.860 --> 00:38:33.150 a hundred percent silicone grease and do a thin swipe on the bottom of the valve 603 00:38:33.150 --> 00:38:36.670 body. You can forego the ring. 604 00:38:37.090 --> 00:38:39.520 It's not standard plumbing practice, 605 00:38:39.580 --> 00:38:42.820 but the whole point of this is to prevent this from grinding anything. 606 00:38:42.820 --> 00:38:45.100 But if you hold the tube steady while you tighten it, 607 00:38:45.370 --> 00:38:47.380 you're not going to grind it. But the grease, 608 00:38:47.470 --> 00:38:51.250 the hundred percent silicone grease will make a little barrier to prevent the 609 00:38:51.250 --> 00:38:55.030 rubber from melting into the bottom of the valve body. 610 00:38:55.120 --> 00:38:59.680 And so you can put a little thin swipe of silicone grease, nothing major. 611 00:39:00.100 --> 00:39:02.620 And again, these threads are a straight thread. 612 00:39:02.620 --> 00:39:04.540 They're a coupling thread or a mechanical thread. 613 00:39:04.540 --> 00:39:08.680 They are just drawing the tube to the bottom of the valve body and putting a 614 00:39:08.680 --> 00:39:13.630 proper squeeze on the top of the vacuum breaker sack, 615 00:39:13.690 --> 00:39:18.310 which acts as a gasket. And so what we do is once we tighten this 616 00:39:18.310 --> 00:39:21.040 up, and again, 617 00:39:21.490 --> 00:39:24.070 all you really need to do is hand tighten it, 618 00:39:24.460 --> 00:39:27.100 and then we take our wrench and we put a little snug on there, 619 00:39:27.100 --> 00:39:28.960 and that should be more than enough. 620 00:39:29.020 --> 00:39:32.710 And then we turn our water back on and then we check. So again, 621 00:39:32.710 --> 00:39:33.970 we can't emphasize enough, 622 00:39:34.540 --> 00:39:39.490 we don't want to put any Teflon tape or any pipe dope or 623 00:39:39.490 --> 00:39:43.270 pipe sealant on the threads because these threads are not a sealing thread. 624 00:39:43.270 --> 00:39:47.650 The only sealing threads on the valve body are on the stop. 625 00:39:47.860 --> 00:39:51.550 When we install it, we put the threads, the sealant on the male thread, 626 00:39:51.550 --> 00:39:54.520 and we tighten up the stop and that's it. 627 00:39:54.970 --> 00:39:57.280 We assemble this tail into the body, 628 00:39:57.280 --> 00:39:59.770 and that's also a one inch pipe thread in here, 629 00:39:59.770 --> 00:40:02.050 but we preseal it and we pre-install it, 630 00:40:02.050 --> 00:40:05.260 and then we test it to make sure that it doesn't leak. Other than that, 631 00:40:05.260 --> 00:40:07.420 everything is either a gasket or an O-ring. 632 00:40:07.420 --> 00:40:12.070 So we should not see any pipe dope or Teflon tape or any type of sealant 633 00:40:12.460 --> 00:40:16.150 applied to any of the connections, whether it's the cover, the handle, 634 00:40:16.570 --> 00:40:21.370 the control stop coupling, the bonnet on the control stop, 635 00:40:21.790 --> 00:40:26.080 as well as the vacuum breaker. And we'll get to the spud here in a second. 636 00:40:26.830 --> 00:40:30.010 But on this, again, hand tighten, slightly snug it. 637 00:40:30.460 --> 00:40:34.510 If you do over-tighten it, you will damage the sack. You will distort the sack, 638 00:40:34.510 --> 00:40:37.090 and that can cause dripping at the flush. 639 00:40:37.330 --> 00:40:40.840 And the only time we want to worry about replacing the sack is when you begin to 640 00:40:40.840 --> 00:40:44.350 see the dripping. And that can take years before you see it develop, 641 00:40:44.350 --> 00:40:48.460 depending on your water quality and the frequency of use. 642 00:40:48.670 --> 00:40:53.530 So the vacuum breaker, if you have any issues with the flushing going on, 643 00:40:53.530 --> 00:40:57.340 that's usually the diaphragm or with the handle. But as long as we don't see any 644 00:40:57.340 --> 00:40:59.980 dripping on the vacuum breaker at the end of the flush, 645 00:41:00.310 --> 00:41:05.260 we do not change the vacuum breaker sack until it's time or required or part 646 00:41:05.260 --> 00:41:08.740 of your general preventative maintenance schedule on flushometers. 647 00:41:09.730 --> 00:41:12.640 So in this part here we have the spud, 648 00:41:12.820 --> 00:41:16.810 which you'll find this in the top of a urinal or a service sink in the water 649 00:41:16.810 --> 00:41:19.840 closet. And what this is, is this is fitted into the toilet, 650 00:41:19.840 --> 00:41:22.870 and this is part of the toilet. It is not part of the flushometer. 651 00:41:23.860 --> 00:41:27.450 We offer one as a replacement part, the ST27A. 652 00:41:28.030 --> 00:41:32.590 And basically the way the spud works is the gasket fits inside the hole. 653 00:41:33.020 --> 00:41:34.610 And as you tighten this up, 654 00:41:35.180 --> 00:41:38.300 the wedge expands this to the inside diameter of the hole. 655 00:41:38.300 --> 00:41:42.950 So the top surface of the toilet will be the bottom of this gasket. And the way 656 00:41:43.070 --> 00:41:47.780 it works here is the escutcheon, or the spud flange, 657 00:41:48.320 --> 00:41:51.110 covers the brass and it's a beauty ring. 658 00:41:51.200 --> 00:41:56.180 And you'll see where the top of the spud comes up close to the 659 00:41:56.180 --> 00:41:58.490 top of the flange. 660 00:41:59.000 --> 00:42:03.890 And what happens is we have a spud coupling for 661 00:42:03.890 --> 00:42:07.700 the flange, and you'll see it's only got a small hex at the top. 662 00:42:07.730 --> 00:42:11.360 And the reason being is not every toilet is designed exactly the same. 663 00:42:11.660 --> 00:42:16.040 So this allows for different heights of the spuds, 664 00:42:16.040 --> 00:42:20.990 depending on the thickness of the toilet or the urinal and sorts like that. 665 00:42:20.990 --> 00:42:23.750 And what happens is if it's on the high end, 666 00:42:24.290 --> 00:42:27.230 it'll still create wedging in there. 667 00:42:27.860 --> 00:42:31.310 So we have our nice beauty ring covering up the brass, 668 00:42:31.400 --> 00:42:32.870 or if it's on the low end, 669 00:42:32.870 --> 00:42:35.930 this will be able to slide all the way down and still make contact. 670 00:42:36.770 --> 00:42:37.850 So on the inside, 671 00:42:37.850 --> 00:42:41.870 the way this works is we have a slip joint gasket and our friction ring. 672 00:42:42.860 --> 00:42:46.640 And what this does is it seals to the spud. 673 00:42:47.510 --> 00:42:49.580 So when the vacuum breaker is installed 674 00:42:52.190 --> 00:42:53.150 in our friction rink, 675 00:42:54.170 --> 00:42:58.520 and this coupling acts just like all the other couplings, it's drawing the 676 00:43:00.770 --> 00:43:05.600 brass spud to the tube and putting a squeeze on that gasket and fattening it up 677 00:43:05.600 --> 00:43:06.470 to make a seal. 678 00:43:06.830 --> 00:43:10.460 So once this is installed and we tighten it up and we put a good squeeze on 679 00:43:10.460 --> 00:43:14.150 there, we don't want to over-tighten it because you may start spinning the spud, 680 00:43:14.600 --> 00:43:18.800 but then we tighten that up and that creates our seal between the tube and the 681 00:43:18.800 --> 00:43:19.633 spud. 682 00:43:20.810 --> 00:43:24.440 So that is the general maintenance of a flushometer and some of the symptoms and 683 00:43:24.440 --> 00:43:26.540 some of the things to look for when servicing it, 684 00:43:26.540 --> 00:43:30.560 plus some tips that we share along. So if you need more information, 685 00:43:30.680 --> 00:43:35.570 you can call us at +1 888-756-2614, 686 00:43:35.660 --> 00:43:39.740 or SLO-AN14. It's 888-SLO-AN14. 687 00:43:39.830 --> 00:43:44.540 You can also go to sloan.com for technical information as well as our 688 00:43:44.540 --> 00:43:48.230 maintenance guides and sorts. And that's it in a nutshell. 689 00:43:48.290 --> 00:43:51.500 I'm Dominic with Sloan Technical Support. Thanks for spending time.